My 2+2 renovation

Holes in floors are not large but basically rotted along where it meets the chassis rails for about 50cm.
Will post up pics when I next get a chance.
Cheers
Andrew

morbias said:
Sorry, just re-read the bit where you said it was because the framerail filled with water. How big is the hole in the floor?
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andrew muir said:
Not sure but bloody thick and sticky.
Seems to be ok but where there is a breach it seems to rust quicker than the original paint.
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Anywhere there is a crack, graze, tear, breach of waxoyl it can let water in and waxoyl tens to trap this water behind it next to the paint/metal. One reason why I don't like it.
 
options required for repair.

Hi I have some pics the 1st pic is the hole in the T/c Box section where it meets the bulk head the inside half seems to be a lot better nick anyone done this repair before?
The next pics are all of the drivers footwell/floor area, there is bad rust for the first 90cm where it joints the chassis rail which has been patched twice before I think. Further than that it is surface rust an might be able to be stabilised and saved?? The pic of the iside of chassis rail is again better nick but the first 30cm has some rust.
As you can hopefully see is that the loorpans of the 2+2 are quite different from the coupe with loads of deep undulations.
I am thinking that at the moment we will have to make up therails in sections eg bottom, side and extended flange 75mm to repair floor, what do you think.
I am open to sugestions!!
The floor pans or rails are not availiable for a 2+2. Unless someone out there has some??

Beware of think underseal when buying one of these cars!!!:(:(:(
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andrew muir said:
Holes in floors are not large but basically rotted along where it meets the chassis rails for about 50cm.
Will post up pics when I next get a chance.
Cheers
Andrew
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That's going to be a big job :(

I would start by removing the re-inforcement plate above the TC rod mount, from the looks of it there's probably nothing behind it except a hole. Once that's off (and if there is a big hole there) you'd be able to assess the inside of the upper box section a bit better. I'd repair that inner wing area and upper box section first, otherwise there'd be nothing to weld the repaired chassis rail to. The floor and framerail will be pretty easy to patch in comparison to tackling the box section, so I'd leave that until last.
 
Andrew, it looks bad but it's typical Datsun I reckon.

I did a lot of that type of repair on my 240Z - I took it off the road to rebuild the engine and put it back four and a half years later.

I did all the fabrication myself so cheap but time consuming. However if you're paying to have it done it will be expensive too.

There's no alternative but cut the rot out and weld new in - unless you scrap it!

I would have thought the guy doing the work could answer your questions - he's got to fix it after all.
 
Thanks guys
I Think the box section will not be too bad the other side has no rust and I can see some of the inside through the hole in the bottom.
Its the floor rail that we are woried about, took more gundge off this aftrenoon and that looks to be the only holed parts, other parts look like surface rust as they are still solid. There are no frame rails availiable and the floor pans are very conveluted comapred to the 2 seater versions, probably to stiffen it all up. So we have a plan to make up the rail in longstrips and weld it all together, it won't be original but will be strong and rot free, its going to take a long time though so looks like I won't be seeyou all at Donnington which I am pissed about.
The guy doing the repairs is good and has worked on 2 seaters before but not the 2+2.
We are only looking for sugestions or tricks of the trade so to speak.
Scraping is not an option too emotionally involved and spent too much money allready!
It is saveable there are lots of good points on the car. Its just a bit dissapointing to be sold a solid car which wasn't that solid!!
 
Hi Andrew new rust you found it can all be repaired sounds like you've got a good body work man to do your work stick with it mate it will be worth it in the long run ,when restoring these cars there are plenty of highs and what seems like more lows ,i know from my experience ,Believe me when you do finish it will be worth it even if its only for your own personal satisfaction ,But also there will be plenty of people on here that will admire what you've done keep the pics coming and good luck:thumbs::thumbs:

:cheers: Derrick
 
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Thanks for the link I have sent an email requesting prices etc.
Thanks to all for the support and advice, if and when I see you, feel free to remind me to buy you all a pint.
Any one know the guage of mild steel for the box sections? 1.2 or 1.5mm??
Also anyone ever tried stainless??
:cheers:

morbias said:
Andrew, I just so happened to be looking at the Bad Dog website and their homepage says they custom make 2+2 framerails. Not sure how much they'd cost but might be worth getting in touch?

Bad Dog Parts, Datsun Z car parts and accessories
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Andrew, I'm sure there will be a lot of Zs on the road that have been bodged and covered up, the good thing is the new owners tend to put them right these days instead on more bodges.

Why can't you come to Donington in your van? These gatherings are rare and the racing will be really interesting.
 
andrew muir said:
Thanks for the link I have sent an email requesting prices etc.
Thanks to all for the support and advice, if and when I see you, feel free to remind me to buy you all a pint.
Any one know the guage of mild steel for the box sections? 1.2 or 1.5mm??
Also anyone ever tried stainless??
:cheers:
Click to expand...

Have you thought about just having some made up? They're only box foldings. Could save you a few hundred quid.
 
Hello Andrew

I made my owwn frame rails for my 240 recently and im sure you could do this with yours to if you cant get any,

I spoke to Mike @ MJP and he does not stock frame rails any more because his supplier started making them out of to thin a guage steel, the only one's he had are from the states and come with the pan's which i already have,

So I made my own by using box section, I think it was 70mm with a 2mm wall section, so probably and bit stronger than stock ones and machining it down to size and shape,

I have only got a few photos, i will try and find some for you now

Gary
 
I could find any decent photos as im in work but heres a quick CAD model of what i mean

frame-rails_zpsbe6b855e.jpg

frame-rails-1_zpsb6f289d2.jpg


you just cut the box section down to this profile and put a slit in the front section aso you can put the angle into it, you would need to cut out and weld on the returns though,

I brought 2 lenghts of 1500 70x70 box section from my local metal suppler and it cost me the grand price of 19 pounds :D

if you need and more info just give me a shout i'd be happy to help out.

Gary
 
Good advice Atomman and great pics.

For my 240Z I too just bought some 'top-hat' section from a supplier.

I think Andrew's floor is not as flat as a 240 though so it will require a bit more work to get a good fit or just hammer the horizontal edges up to the floor?.
 
What is the original guage of steel used for the floor rails and the box section, And need a link to a decent metal supplier.
:cheers:



atomman said:
Hello Andrew

I spoke to Mike @ MJP and he does not stock frame rails any more because his supplier started making them out of to thin a guage steel, the only one's he had are from the states and come with the pan's which i already have,
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Sorry I didnt have any on my car to measure, but im assuming they were quite a thin section as most olf 240's i have seen are all bent from being jacked up on them.

I made mine a bit thicker so that they wont do this and i dont think it has added that much extra weight. esspecially if i go on that diet ive been promising myself since christmas :lol:
 
I would go a bit thicker. You would add a smidge of weight, but adding strength, esp. with the 2by 2 being a longer floor. The body does twist, esp. with more power.
 
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