Throttleton
Well-Known Forum User
I quite like it Andrew, I think the Grp IV works spoiler was a 3 piece affair although bigger.........
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My 2+2 renovation
- Thread starter andrew muir
- Start date
andrew muir
Club Member
No the tailgate seems ok, the slam panel is ok at the moment though to get into the holow section underneath is difficult.
Will probably not be selling this car, I am hoping its a keeper!!
I maybe a bit young, but looking forward to the days when I go cruising round the alps and northern Italy etc in it when I retire!
I also don't have a spoiler to put on it.
Thanks Rob hey whats happening with my membership how do I renew it again?
Will probably not be selling this car, I am hoping its a keeper!!
I maybe a bit young, but looking forward to the days when I go cruising round the alps and northern Italy etc in it when I retire!
I also don't have a spoiler to put on it.
Thanks Rob hey whats happening with my membership how do I renew it again?
Just Pay-up, is this some sort of Scottish stalling technique
http://www.zclub.net/forum/payments.php
andrew muir
Club Member
Arghhhhh
Got part of sill cutaway in dogleg and surprise surprise, another bodged repair. rusted through inner sill and into floor looks like another £200 in labour to fix.
I have taken pics of old quarter to illustrate poor repairs, no sealer or even primer just welded bare steel, and yes that is pop rivets, no wonder it is rusting through so quick.
It seems where-ever this car has been repaired before there is a problem and where it has been left is only minor rust.
I hope the other side is better but I am doubtful. I don't have an unlimited amount of money to spend on this car but this is getting expensive!!
Does anyone need any parts from the old quarters before they get binned??
Got part of sill cutaway in dogleg and surprise surprise, another bodged repair. rusted through inner sill and into floor looks like another £200 in labour to fix.
I have taken pics of old quarter to illustrate poor repairs, no sealer or even primer just welded bare steel, and yes that is pop rivets, no wonder it is rusting through so quick.
It seems where-ever this car has been repaired before there is a problem and where it has been left is only minor rust.
I hope the other side is better but I am doubtful. I don't have an unlimited amount of money to spend on this car but this is getting expensive!!
Does anyone need any parts from the old quarters before they get binned??
Attachments
andrew muir
Club Member
Car seat repair
I was going to get my old seats recovered but due to all the extra fabrication work will have to make do with repairs.
My drivers seat has formed a couple of small cracks on the side on the vinyl. What is the best way to stop the cracks getting bigger and to repair or disguise them?
Cheers
Andrew
I was going to get my old seats recovered but due to all the extra fabrication work will have to make do with repairs.
My drivers seat has formed a couple of small cracks on the side on the vinyl. What is the best way to stop the cracks getting bigger and to repair or disguise them?
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew, is it worse than this?
Datsun 240Z 260z S30 Genuine Seat & Rails | eBay
If so perhaps best to get a new one
Seriously I'd just 'keep an eye out' for some seats. Concentrate on that bodyshell
Datsun 240Z 260z S30 Genuine Seat & Rails | eBay
If so perhaps best to get a new one
Seriously I'd just 'keep an eye out' for some seats. Concentrate on that bodyshell
andrew muir
Club Member
Er!! No Rob in fact compared to that it is minted!!!
Bills are really stacking up on this build, got the wife buying lottery tickets in an attempt to fund!! She is taking the news really well, although concerned.
Already over the £2000 mark and we are nowhere near ready to paint.
Will have to get a fixed price now as this could easily double even before we prep or paint.
The inner sill is going to be completely reconstructed on the drivers side as though it is only surface rust it won't last if left and is impossible to treat effectively.
I also would like opinions on how to finish wheel wells and underneath?
Should these be black low gloss, stone chiped black or the same as body colour??
Many thanks for the support guys, it is much appreciated.
Bills are really stacking up on this build, got the wife buying lottery tickets in an attempt to fund!!
She is taking the news really well, although concerned.Already over the £2000 mark and we are nowhere near ready to paint.
Will have to get a fixed price now as this could easily double even before we prep or paint.
The inner sill is going to be completely reconstructed on the drivers side as though it is only surface rust it won't last if left and is impossible to treat effectively.
I also would like opinions on how to finish wheel wells and underneath?
Should these be black low gloss, stone chiped black or the same as body colour??
Many thanks for the support guys, it is much appreciated.
...........Already over the £2000 mark and we are nowhere near ready to paint. Will have to get a fixed price now as this could easily double even before we prep or paint.
The inner sill is going to be completely reconstructed on the drivers side as though it is only surface rust it won't last if left and is impossible to treat effectively.
Andrew, IMO you should get the body sound so that you can forget it. Prime it and store the car until you can afford to paint it. Underneath black stonechip and lots of waxoyl.
andrew muir
Club Member
Nuts and Bolts
Hi
I am wanting to replace most of the fasteners on my zed with stainless nuts and bolts most of which will be socket heads.
Does anyone have the specs and tensile strength of the bolts required etc?
Most of my existing stock of stainless is graded A2/70 or A4/80 which I think is about ISO 5 and 7.
Please correct me if i am wrong!
Will these be strong enough or do I need a higher grade which may be difficult to find?
Cheers
Andrew
Hi
I am wanting to replace most of the fasteners on my zed with stainless nuts and bolts most of which will be socket heads.
Does anyone have the specs and tensile strength of the bolts required etc?
Most of my existing stock of stainless is graded A2/70 or A4/80 which I think is about ISO 5 and 7.
Please correct me if i am wrong!
Will these be strong enough or do I need a higher grade which may be difficult to find?
Cheers
Andrew
andrew muir
Club Member
Progress has been slow of late.
Removed whole drivers sill and hade repair to floorpan and inner sill, lots of fabrication!!
All zinc weldthrough primer, drilled a couple of extra holes so I can wax inner sill area as well, and also new sill clamped ready to be spotwelded.
Removed whole drivers sill and hade repair to floorpan and inner sill, lots of fabrication!!
All zinc weldthrough primer, drilled a couple of extra holes so I can wax inner sill area as well, and also new sill clamped ready to be spotwelded.
Attachments
Looking good Andrew nice to see your doing a proper job on your car well done mate keep the pics coming
I agree, credit to you. I like to see the rusty sills etc though not just the new shiny bits
andrew muir
Club Member
Look at Post 64 Rob lots of pics, The outer sill itself was saveable but it removing it basically destoyed it, needed to get at inner sills to rustproof. Previous repairs made seem to have been short term fixes. I hope I am doing this to last for a very long time.We have been using Zinc enriched weld through and rust converter. It is going to get 12 cans of cavity wax everywhere, will be drilling access holes to get at the new chassis rails and all box sections etc.
The genuine parts came from a member on here from Hartlepool sorry can't remember his name. Got 2 x sills 1 door and 2 rear quarters all nissan parts.
All will be used on this car except passenger sill?
Yep was lucky to get them!
The genuine parts came from a member on here from Hartlepool sorry can't remember his name. Got 2 x sills 1 door and 2 rear quarters all nissan parts.
All will be used on this car except passenger sill?
Yep was lucky to get them!
andrew muir
Club Member
Transporting.
I am having to move my car to another body shop to finish welding, as existing bodyshop has lost interest!?
Is it safe to move car with chassis rail partly removed on drivers side? see previous pics.
The sills and rear quarter have been welded in now.
It will be getting jacked up to remove wheel stands and will be transported on a trailer.
Regards
Andrew
I am having to move my car to another body shop to finish welding, as existing bodyshop has lost interest!?
Is it safe to move car with chassis rail partly removed on drivers side? see previous pics.
The sills and rear quarter have been welded in now.
It will be getting jacked up to remove wheel stands and will be transported on a trailer.
Regards
Andrew
I am having to move my car to another body shop to finish welding, as existing bodyshop has lost interest!?
Is it safe to move car with chassis rail partly removed on drivers side? see previous pics.
The sills and rear quarter have been welded in now.
It will be getting jacked up to remove wheel stands and will be transported on a trailer.
Regards
Andrew
Andrew, sorry to hear about your body-shop. I would have thought he would have liked to 'see it through'. Also it's another hurdle and disappointment for you.
IMHO I would think it strong enough to move yes.
andrew muir
Club Member
Funny thing is, the new guy that will be doing the work used to work for him.
He loves Zeds so that is always a good thing.
Thanks Rob
He loves Zeds so that is always a good thing.
Thanks Rob
andrew muir
Club Member
Progressing at last!
First couple of pics are of the Car at old bodyshop waiting to be transported to new shop. Sills and rear quarter are all fully spot welded on Sills and all box sections filled with cavity wax etc.
Other pics are in new shop where repairs have been started on the chassis rails new box sections made up and welded in place just need floor to be repaired and box sections. Discovered a small hole in bottom of front crossmember so that will be repaired as well and the other rear quater to be replaced.
Not much then ehh!!!
What a difference in progress. At this rate all welding will be finished next week.
Also is a pic of some parts I got blasted and powdercoated not bad for £25.00
First couple of pics are of the Car at old bodyshop waiting to be transported to new shop. Sills and rear quarter are all fully spot welded on Sills and all box sections filled with cavity wax etc.
Other pics are in new shop where repairs have been started on the chassis rails new box sections made up and welded in place just need floor to be repaired and box sections. Discovered a small hole in bottom of front crossmember so that will be repaired as well and the other rear quater to be replaced.
Not much then ehh!!!
What a difference in progress. At this rate all welding will be finished next week.
Also is a pic of some parts I got blasted and powdercoated not bad for £25.00
Attachments
It's looking good Andrew - I can tell you're feeling more positive about it now.
The powder coating seems a decent job and cheap.
The powder coating seems a decent job and cheap.
