My 2+2 renovation

andrew muir

Club Member
:thumbs:
Hi guys thought I would start a thread to document for the rebuild of my 1977 260z 2+2.
Its been rebuilt before but its looking a bit tired and its time to strip it down before it turns into a major welding fest!
First question is after removing the cowl below the windscreen and removing the wiper motor assy etc. How in the hell are you supposed to remove all the debris and surface rust inside the cowl area?
Mine is solid with only some surface rust, but need to prep properly for new paint.
:thumbs:

Will post up some pics shortly.
 

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
I'd also like to know the answer to that question, I'm hoping it's not 'drill out all the spotwelds and take it apart'!

looking forward to pics, there don't seem to be many 2+2 projects on here
 

andrew muir

Club Member
Here are some pic of the rust eg holes found so far.
Pretty severe at front of inner wing.
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Throttleton

Well-Known Forum User
Doesn't look to bad Andrew, I think you can buy those hinge mount sections new for about 70 quid each I think.
 

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
That's actually exactly what my RH sill looked like before I started poking at it :eek:

Hopefully yours isn't so bad inside...
 

andrew muir

Club Member
Hi Craig is it MJP you get them from or USA?
The sill is post poking, the next section looks fairly solid seems only to have rusted in the first section, Other side is solid.
I was wondering if it would be a good idea to attach a hose onto the cowl drain and feed this out via the wheel arch rather than it draining into wing sill area?
 

Ian Patmore

Well-Known Forum User
I was wondering if it would be a good idea to attach a hose onto the cowl drain and feed this out via the wheel arch rather than it draining into wing sill area?

A common thing to do. As for dealing with the debris/rust, it is just a get your hand in there to deal with. When /neutralizing/painting/waxoyling make sure you deal with where the bottom panel (under the cowl) meets the bulkhead, as this is a common rust point. And if the underside of your cowl has the original pads, these hold water and this is where they rust through (but you probably know that)
 
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andrew muir

Club Member
Hi Guys
Just wanted to ask what is the best way to rejuvinate the rubber seals around my car eg around engine bay they seem to have gone hard and are not very flexible anymore.
Any ideas or tricks of the trade?
:thumbs:
Andrew
 

andrew muir

Club Member
Getting new pieces made up here is a pic of the passenger side panel fabricated, also shown is in second pic is where the box section has been cut and to where the new section in first pic will be welded to, rest of box sections are ok apart from a bit of welding required in pic 3.

Doesn't look to bad Andrew, I think you can buy those hinge mount sections new for about 70 quid each I think.
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candy red

Club Member
looks like your getting there,I remember coming across rust like this there will be light at the end of the tunnel keep up the good work and keep the pics coming :thumbs::thumbs:
 

Sylv1

Well-Known Forum User
and also, like you, the rocket panels
Carrosserie_051-01.jpg


All that panels are available...

good bodyworker is required for a good fitting :eek:
 

andrew muir

Club Member
Help

Hi deparately need a 260z late floor pan and chassis rail for drivers side!! :(
Passenger side is ok.
Couldn't believe it I've been scraping underseal off the car all day and discovered the floor has rotted out in just a year!!
water has obviously been sitting in the rail and been slowly rusting away.
Passenger side is quite solid.
I not sure I would recommend taking all the underseal off a car I don't think many will like what they find!!:(:(
 

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
What sort of underseal was it, was it Waxoyl by any chance?

When I scraped the underseal (Waxoyl type stuff) off the underside of my car there was a clear line between rot and good metal, everything touched by the underseal had rusted away. When I finish my floors it's going to be painted followed by the stonechip stuff for sure followed by a few more layers of paint.

Good luck with your getting your floor sorted, 2+2 floors look like a mission and a half :(
 

andrew muir

Club Member
Spoke to Mike at MJP
2+2 floors not availiablke .
Thinking I will have to get the boxsection in front of bulkhead fabricated or repaired, and recycle the middle of the old floor where the pressings are. I think they might be savable and get chassis rails fabricated with extra wide flanges to weld to existing floor?
Will that work ??
My body repair pal is not going to be pleased!
:unsure::unsure:
 

andrew muir

Club Member
Not sure but bloody thick and sticky.
Seems to be ok but where there is a breach it seems to rust quicker than the original paint.

What sort of underseal was it, was it Waxoyl by any chance?

When I scraped the underseal (Waxoyl type stuff) off the underside of my car there was a clear line between rot and good metal, everything touched by the underseal had rusted away. When I finish my floors it's going to be painted followed by the stonechip stuff for sure followed by a few more layers of paint.

Good luck with your getting your floor sorted, 2+2 floors look like a mission and a half :(
 

morbias

Well-Known Forum User
Sorry, just re-read the bit where you said it was because the framerail filled with water. How big is the hole in the floor?
 
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