Replacement braking system for 240z - options?

Willwood sold by willwood,280 zx bits sold by anyone that sells Z bits really ,although very hard to get now days,I might have one that needs a rebuild kit probably,the 2+2 servo you’ll get second hand but not a must and if yer drums need resurfacing then an engineers shop will do that,not much help with suppliers but it’s a case of shopping around now that Mr F isn’t with us anymore,I’ll sell the master cylinder for £40 which is wot I paid for it but I’ll have to double check it’s the right one,don’t think you can get a new late one anymore
 
status said:
Willwood sold by willwood,280 zx bits sold by anyone that sells Z bits really ,although very hard to get now days,I might have one that needs a rebuild kit probably,the 2+2 servo you’ll get second hand but not a must and if yer drums need resurfacing then an engineers shop will do that,not much help with suppliers but it’s a case of shopping around now that Mr F isn’t with us anymore,I’ll sell the master cylinder for £40 which is wot I paid for it but I’ll have to double check it’s the right one,don’t think you can get a new late one anymore
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Seal kits are unobtainium for early (79 to 81) 280ZX master cylinder. Recon units do come up now and again on Rockauto. Late master cylinders (81 to 83) still available.
 
Get yourself the master cylinder if you can,make# all the difference and the willwood calipers and you’ve a decent brake system,bit better than the standard one,im running 300 bhp on my Z and it works for me
 
Anyone had any experience with these?

Motorsport Auto - The Z Store - Four Piston Brake Caliper Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260-280Z

Four Piston Brake Caliper Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260-280Z
www.thezstore.com

Doing some searching online, I see just how hard it is to get replacement / upgrade parts for the braking system.

I'm starting to think i may need to use a rebuild kit on my power booster, and just recondition my very old callipers or just replace them, along with the discs.
 
Interesting video. He actually has a list of all the parts he used and where to get them, rather than having to buy a kit (i'll paste below for anyone curious). I'd argue this route probably more stopping power than I need, just looking at options to replace my existing old calipers.


What I used: 1984 Nissan 300z (Z31) -Dynamic Friction Rotors https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/n... Part numbers: DYNAMIC FRICTION 63167017L DYNAMIC FRICTION 63167017R 1989 Toyota 4Runner -S12W Calipers https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/t... Part numbers: NUGEON 9701550B NUGEON 9701550A -Power Stop Brake pads https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/t... Part numbers: POWER STOP 16410 Rotor Spacer Zcardepot https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-...
 
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The S12W caliper/Z31 disc setup has been around for ages as an option. My red Z has that setup alongside a 15/16 master cylinder. Does the job effectively.
 
Not them, turbo ones. But I'm not sure how to tell which are the aluminium ones. I think theres a thread somewhere that says....
Screenshot_20230328-200936.png
 
My opinion:

I have used all sorts from standard to range rover, toyota 4 pot, and willwood super lights. I currently have the willwoods on 2 of my cars. ALL worked perfectly, including standard, for road use and the limiting factor was always the tyre griping the road surface. I have used standard brakes on one of my zeds for over 5 years, even with a 3.2 stroker engine. If you want to "upgrade" your brakes then do so but you will not improve your ability to stop in an emergency providing your standard brakes are working fine. With my blue car I upgraded to 280zx vented brakes and destroyed them on my first track session. The range rover setup did not last much longer so i bit the bullet and went for the full willwood setup with directional vented rotors. These work well on the track and I can generally get a year out of the disks. They are not nice on the road though due to pad squeal. On my red v8 zed I used the toyota setup which was great but overheated and failed on nordschleife. They did recover after a minute so probable a better fluid would have helped.

To sum up. For a road car you probable don't need to upgrade but if you expect to go anywhere near a track then an upgrade will be needed.

All just IMO
 
johnymd said:
My opinion:

I have used all sorts from standard to range rover, toyota 4 pot, and willwood super lights. I currently have the willwoods on 2 of my cars. ALL worked perfectly, including standard, for road use and the limiting factor was always the tyre griping the road surface. I have used standard brakes on one of my zeds for over 5 years, even with a 3.2 stroker engine. If you want to "upgrade" your brakes then do so but you will not improve your ability to stop in an emergency providing your standard brakes are working fine. With my blue car I upgraded to 280zx vented brakes and destroyed them on my first track session. The range rover setup did not last much longer so i bit the bullet and went for the full willwood setup with directional vented rotors. These work well on the track and I can generally get a year out of the disks. They are not nice on the road though due to pad squeal. On my red v8 zed I used the toyota setup which was great but overheated and failed on nordschleife. They did recover after a minute so probable a better fluid would have helped.

To sum up. For a road car you probable don't need to upgrade but if you expect to go anywhere near a track then an upgrade will be needed.

All just IMO
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I agree. I have had various systems. The thing that limits fast driving with an S30 is heat build-up with frequent heavy use. It you fit big vented discs to overcome this you get into complications with clearance for wheels and suspension. Also discs get heavy. Worth doing for spirited track work though.

Perhaps remove the disc guards as a starting point.

Bear in mind that the HSCC racers have to manage with the standard set-up.
 
Thanks for the comments guys. Having had the 240 out over the nice weekend (first time since October), it's definitely time to address this issue. During my restoration build, the brakes only got new pads and master cylinder. I now have a brake pedal judder, which leaves me with zero confidence in the brakes now - I suspect this is due to a warped disc or something. I should have done this job when I did the suspension - oh well.

I don't intend to ever take the car on a track.

I've investigated a few of the upgrade kit options, most of which provide for braking / cooling that I just don't need. Just want it to be able to handle a spirited drive on country roads - which it can't currently.

Sensible head says just get new replacement discs, pads, rebuild or replace existing calipers, replace rear wheel cylinders, flush and bleed the system (already have replacement master cylinder). Not sure how I would know / test effectiveness of my power booster - any thoughts on that?

My conclusion being that overhauling my 'stock' system will likely deliver the results i am looking for.

However, given having to do all of the above work and buying new parts - was curious what an entry level upgrade might be, given my need to buy new parts anyway.

Curious what people think? Just do a 'stock' overhaul / replacement or any thoughts on which of the many upgrade options out there might be worth considering as an entry level; e.g. just doing the front discs / calipers and leaving everything else stock.

Thanks all - braking system newbie (Graeme)
 
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