Replacement braking system for 240z - options?

[Albrecht]

I'm assuming the pads are universal, so will fit either variant?

Yes, you should be OK pad-wise.

Any thoughts on whether or not I should keep or ditch the brake shield?

For road use, keep. They would be better named as splash shields, as they were designed to protect somewhat from rain/water splash. The earliest design had a sort of pressed-in air scoop on the front facing edge (designed to cool) but this was found to scoop up rain and puddle water and direct it onto the pads, so was soon deleted to protect the type of driver who would be surprised by differences in braking performance...

The thinking was sound though. Brake fade/pad glazing is closely connected to pad heat, but rain water is also an enemy. I've seen some people drill big holes in the shields, and also some fashion a small 'scoop' arrangement to direct cooling air onto the calipers (as per the original design). Maybe something to think about for 'fast road' use, if such a thing still exists...

 

[Graeme - CZ]

Well I would take them off and save them.

Is that solid brake pipe just 'floating' like that? It should be supported with a bracket on the strut. If you don't have a bracket now then perhaps go braided all the way to the caliper. However that can complicate caliper removal (have to undo the other end of the hose) but I've seen it done.

It’s disconnected from the bracket just now

 

[Graeme - CZ]

Anyone had any bad experiences with drilled / slotted brake discs? Set of these available in the UK. These are a direct bolt on to replace the stock disc. I'm aware that they may make a bit of extra noise when bedding in. Given the brakes are dismantled, i'd really like to get them job done and not have to wait for a RockAuto delivery for stock discs.

 

[240L31]

I would never go for drilled disks (as opposed to disks cast with holes). These holes are weak points which will start cracking after a certain amount of heat cycles. Slots can help with pad cleaning but this doesn't matter for a street driven car.

I'd go for regular, plain rotors

 

[Mr.G]

Sorry, I've not quite read all the posts on here so apologies if this has already been said but wanted to add this as something to consider.. unless youve upgraded to a lot more power, the stock brakes are really good when properly serviced and when bled with quality fluid, eg Dot 4.

 

[candy red]

Personally I think you need to think about what experienced people with 20 years experience on track and off track on here have already told you ie Rob, Jonny,John, Alan oh and Mr G if not going on track not increasing power good serviced standard brake will do

 

[status]

Del is right,just a set of new discs will be noticeable but as I said before that’s the way to go with the willwood set up if you want a better braking system

 

[Graeme - CZ]

Thanks all. So a RockAuto order for stock parts it is. Discs and new pads.

So my callipers are what I believe could be the originals - they are sasamoto. They seem to work, but I suspect in a 50 year old way. Any thoughts, given I’m about to ship parts across the Atlantic?

 

[Robotsan]

Thanks all. So a RockAuto order for stock parts it is. Discs and new pads.

So my callipers are what I believe could be the originals - they are sasamoto. They seem to work, but I suspect in a 50 year old way. Any thoughts, given I’m about to ship parts across the Atlantic?

Take them apart, check the piston for corrosion and the inside of the caliper where it slides in. Make sure the seals are in good nic. If the piston doesn't look good and the seals and duff then you should be able to order a rebuild kit (new piston, seals etc). I don't think there's much more to a caliper to go wrong really, so as long as the moving parts and seals are good they should function as new... but <caveat> I'm not an expert!

 

[Graeme - CZ]

Take them apart, check the piston for corrosion and the inside of the caliper where it slides in. Make sure the seals are in good nic. If the piston doesn't look good and the seals and duff then you should be able to order a rebuild kit (new piston, seals etc). I don't think there's much more to a caliper to go wrong really, so as long as the moving parts and seals are good they should function as new... but <caveat> I'm not an expert!

£8 for a repair kit x2, so may as well add that to my order. Thanks.

 

[Albrecht]

So my callipers are what I believe could be the originals - they are sasamoto.

Typo? Stock front brake calipers should be Girling-patent SUMITOMO S-16 type.

 

[Robotsan]

£8 for a repair kit x2, so may as well add that to my order. Thanks.

Bargain! Does that include the pistons or is it just the seals?

I was considering just ordering remanufactured calipers from Rockauto as that saves a lot of hassle, and they're so cheap!




Btw this is a good video guide on rebuilding them / replacing them:

 

[Graeme - CZ]

Bargain! Does that include the pistons or is it just the seals?

I was considering just ordering remanufactured calipers from Rockauto as that saves a lot of hassle, and they're so cheap!

View attachment 57305


Btw this is a good video guide on rebuilding them / replacing them:

Was just the seals. Not so much of a bargain it turned out. Just adding $6 of parts added nearly $30 of extra expense and extended shipping by over a week. I've parked that for now and will revisit the calipers and rear cylinders in the winter. Given the cheapness of the calipers, may indeed be less hassle just doing as you suggest.

 

[Ian Patmore]

Here’s what I have. Not sure if the markings will shed any light?

View attachment 57250

The markings include a Nissan part number (40206-E4101).... and the other bit says "min th(ickness) 11mm"

 

[yellowz]

Not so much of a bargain it turned out. Just adding $6 of parts added nearly $30 of extra expense and extended shipping by over a week

was that because the parts were now coming from 2 different sites?

 

[Robotsan]

was that because the parts were now coming from 2 different sites?

I was about to say that. Rockauto tells you which location the part is available from (A, B, C etc) and if you get them all from one, then it's way cheaper.

 

[Graeme - CZ]

was that because the parts were now coming from 2 different sites?

I’m guessing so, so no benefit adding to the order.

 

[Graeme - CZ]

Typo? Stock front brake calipers should be Girling-patent SUMITOMO S-16 type.

SUMITOMO is what I meant

 

[MCBladeRun]

Hi, just to add, NEVER disassemble fully, ie take the 2xhalves apart!

You've got a few bolts that go through the 2x halves of the caliper and they've got a seal in there which rockauto certainly don't sell.

You should be able to get the pistons out and washers if it's still good. If they're seized you'll have to do this method whereby you g-clamp the pistons in, and put some low pressure into the caliper and work them out little by little.

Plenty of YouTube videos out there.

 

[Graeme - CZ]

Good point re the halves - I'm suspecting it can end up being quite a time consuming job and it may in fact be easier and time saving simply to replace, given that replacement calipers seem readily available at low cost.