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XUL 27T re-furb' update
- Thread starter zedhead260
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- 260z dave jarman stroker xul27t
STEVE BURNS
Club Member
Sure it was brought up to Zed Fest a couple of years back
Ian Patmore
Well-Known Forum User
The front spoiler I had/have would not fit (made of aluminum) and I had to find something very quick whilst the car was in the painters....nothing else I would have considered was available at the time. I quite like it, but it is something to be changed at a later date (esp. when I get the ally spoiler cut to size). As for the rear, I am not a great fan of no spoiler, as it is there for a reason, and I think the European OEM one a bit out of proportion on the car (too small), hence why my one is not a European spec.
I was introduced to Greenwoods, probably 3/4 years ago, and it has and is where my 260Z will go for work.
Datsfun, just pick up the phone and give Greenwoods a ring, I'm not made of money....
zedhead260
Well-Known Forum User
As my tailgate needed a lower outer skin, I had the choice to delete it.
As it is functional, I chose to keep it - I do like without though.
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
On he other hand, if Nissan wanted it to be there 'for a reason', they would have built it into the style - no ?
I've run a Z w/out for 4 years now without any adverse effects.........but mine is lower than average.
A really effective racing version should be larger.
Ian Patmore
Well-Known Forum User
From my basic understanding, the S30 design was found to be less stable at 100mph+ by Nissan (e.g. after the S30 was styled), and so the rear spoiler was as an "add on". I gather the rear spoiler was "stock" on European cars as they would have generally a higher use speed, than say, the North American market (at the time, with their soft springs and thin front anti-roll bar & no rear anti-roll bar [until1973/4]). This is also why the European S30's got a chin spoiler as well. Both of these spoilers were added to stop the S30 feeling "lighter" at higher speeds. The other thing that springs to mind as an example, on this is the manual 280zx did not get a finned rear diff cover in the North American market, whilst we in UK (rest of Europe?) did, as it could be deemed not needed for their lower speeds and less corners.
Happily be corrected on Nissan historical side of things...
Seat of your pants testing is not really relevant, the hard numbers by Nissan are better. And bear in mind this was found on a stock car, not the modern modded S30's we nearly all have today. Its like most people could not tell the difference if the car produced a few more bhp if they were not told. And, whether a car is lower or not has little to do with the downward pressure generated by having a rear spoiler on, its the air flow over the top of the car for this.
Agreed.
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
Ian, I don't think the historical context is in question here nor Nissans' hard data.............but all that is relative ONLY for stock models sold out of the showroom.....and not relative to yours, Robs' and my cars - modern modded (see below)
We were questioning your choice of spoilers and if it's simple tatse, it's your car - do what you want....but if you want to 'defend your choice by hiding behind Nissans' decisions...only you've gone one better by having a bigger rear and deeper front - THAT opens up a nice discussion of not ginger-bashing but an intelligent exchange of views and experience by people with different spec-ed Zs !
Which brings me to this :
We agree to differ then ? Because I beleive that it IS relevant because :
a) Nissans' hard numbers were relative only to stock cars and ours aren't
b) I've driven under a lot of different weather, road and track conditions at various speeds, under various loads and have info to share (if desired)
c) a LOT of kms over 5 years whilst yours was tucked up cosily in a garage
- sorry for that last but don't patronise me please.I think that you're wrong.........what IS important is the difference between the airflow over and airflow under the car - THAT is what creates lift !
Guys, all I said was I prefer Zs without spoilers. They are useful for trackwork but a lower stiffer car, track tyres, decent brakes, skill and a degree of risk-taking come first.
We have hi-jacked Zedhead's Thread, suggest this is moved to another section what do you think Zedhead?
By the way my comments about other people's car are purely my opinion and I know I have the tattiest and least desirable 240 around, so nothing personal folks.
We have hi-jacked Zedhead's Thread, suggest this is moved to another section what do you think Zedhead?
By the way my comments about other people's car are purely my opinion and I know I have the tattiest and least desirable 240 around, so nothing personal folks.
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
By all means move it to the technical section and well done for having stimulated an interesting thread.
But don't apologise BEFORE everyone's upset and ones' condition whether it be concours or tatty (?) isn't relevant here unless we're talking rusty edges or loose-fitting f/g panels creating drag........... !
But don't apologise BEFORE everyone's upset and ones' condition whether it be concours or tatty (?) isn't relevant here unless we're talking rusty edges or loose-fitting f/g panels creating drag...........
!zedhead260
Well-Known Forum User
Not fussed really. Someone can start a new thread if they wish, just make a link to it from here rather than chop this one about.
zedhead260
Well-Known Forum User
A nice surprise today
So I get this text message from this guy I know through work telling me my car is in Practical Performance Car.
A quick visit to WH Smith and blow me he was right !!
Dave Walkers Workshop
So I get this text message from this guy I know through work telling me my car is in Practical Performance Car.
A quick visit to WH Smith and blow me he was right !!
Dave Walkers Workshop
zedhead260
Well-Known Forum User
I've covered 500 miles, so Friday I decided it was time to drain off the "run-in" oil and put some decent stuff in it.
The intention today was to pop up to Santa Pod and catch the last RWYB day before winter sets in. Having missed the last two Z drag events, it was my last opportunity to get a score in the Hall of Fame.
However, somewhat frustratingly upon starting the car I could hear a very disconcerting knock from under the bonnet. Further investigation discovered an issue with the crank damper which appears to have rattled loose from its boss - so I put it back in the garage to be dealt with later.
Clearly the car is still in "shake-down" mode, so I'll have to wait until next year to test its straight line performance
So instead of a video clip of me today at Santa Pod, here is one from years ago - see if you can spot me at 1:00min.
(some good Z coverage that day)
[YOUTUBE]w19668mhHQY[/YOUTUBE]
The intention today was to pop up to Santa Pod and catch the last RWYB day before winter sets in. Having missed the last two Z drag events, it was my last opportunity to get a score in the Hall of Fame.
However, somewhat frustratingly upon starting the car I could hear a very disconcerting knock from under the bonnet. Further investigation discovered an issue with the crank damper which appears to have rattled loose from its boss - so I put it back in the garage to be dealt with later.
Clearly the car is still in "shake-down" mode, so I'll have to wait until next year to test its straight line performance
So instead of a video clip of me today at Santa Pod, here is one from years ago - see if you can spot me at 1:00min.
(some good Z coverage that day)
[YOUTUBE]w19668mhHQY[/YOUTUBE]
MaximG
Well-Known Forum User
Mr.G
Club Member
Rob, I spotted the article a few weeks ago but didn't dawn on me that you may not have seen it. Pictures are great.
Pain about the damper but at least you spotted it early, have you found out why she was running hot?
Pain about the damper but at least you spotted it early, have you found out why she was running hot?
zedhead260
Well-Known Forum User
I have, but only because Steve Kiddell has the same issue coupled with a scientific explanation - maybe it is best for him to post up his theory.
It surrounds certain heads and modified hot water pipe work not being able to self bleed leading to air pockets in the head, air pockets get hot and over pressuise the top rad hose leaving the thermostat housing with nothing but steam in it,
It only seems to affect significantly modified engines, in particular with high volume water pumps.
Electromotive and other racers knew about it in the 70's, I have seen evidence of a fix which involves a plumbed external water way tapped into the water jacket just above the exhaust ports running along the face of the head.
One fix is to add a presurised header tank (one with a proper relief cap) plumb the top into the stat housing and the bottom into the inlet of the water pump inlet, then fit a locking cap to the radiator.
This creats a self purging system with the header tank at the highest point.
Terry has gotten 95% of the way there, but had issues with the plastic cap on a plastic expansion bottle.
Note..... Use a pressurised header tank and not an overflow expansion tank, there are a number of nice alloy ones on tinternet
It only seems to affect significantly modified engines, in particular with high volume water pumps.
Electromotive and other racers knew about it in the 70's, I have seen evidence of a fix which involves a plumbed external water way tapped into the water jacket just above the exhaust ports running along the face of the head.
One fix is to add a presurised header tank (one with a proper relief cap) plumb the top into the stat housing and the bottom into the inlet of the water pump inlet, then fit a locking cap to the radiator.
This creats a self purging system with the header tank at the highest point.
Terry has gotten 95% of the way there, but had issues with the plastic cap on a plastic expansion bottle.
Note..... Use a pressurised header tank and not an overflow expansion tank, there are a number of nice alloy ones on tinternet
zedhead260
Well-Known Forum User
Thanks Steve.
In the short term, just by keeping the water circulating through the heater matrix seems to allieviate the issue. However, I have noticed that if the engine is turned off for a short period, then back on again it is less effective and the temp's creep up (although nothing like as hot).
I think I have a neat solution for the header tank, but not something which is available off the internet. Why on earth would I make my life simple by buying off the shelf parts when I can go through all the grief and expense of customising something
In the short term, just by keeping the water circulating through the heater matrix seems to allieviate the issue. However, I have noticed that if the engine is turned off for a short period, then back on again it is less effective and the temp's creep up (although nothing like as hot).
I think I have a neat solution for the header tank, but not something which is available off the internet. Why on earth would I make my life simple by buying off the shelf parts when I can go through all the grief and expense of customising something
zedhead260
Well-Known Forum User
Steve,
Out of intrest, did you need to punch extra holes in your head gasket to suit the P90 ??
Out of intrest, did you need to punch extra holes in your head gasket to suit the P90 ??
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
Thanks Steve.
In the short term, just by keeping the water circulating through the heater matrix seems to allieviate the issue. However, I have noticed that if the engine is turned off for a short period, then back on again it is less effective and the temp's creep up (although nothing like as hot).
I think I have a neat solution for the header tank, but not something which is available off the internet. Why on earth would I make my life simple by buying off the shelf parts when I can go through all the grief and expense of customising something
I built a car that had a small heat soak issue. The best way I found was to fit an EWP that would carry on running for a few minutes after the car was switched off.
Worked well.