XUL 27T re-furb' update

[SKiddell]

try a standard rad. I don't mind if you say 'i told you so' in large font

no

 

[Albrecht]

Alan, nice pic of the composite rad. I bet it was changed because the water section wasn't big enough

On the contrary, the rad in that car was never changed in period and I can't imagine that the Works team built it, tested it and raced it without it working properly. There were triple and quad core versions of such rads, too.

I think you'll find that the one on the car today ( a stock rad, sourced from another model of car ) was fitted because the original Works rad was found to have silted up over the years.....

 

[Rob Gaskin]

no

:lol:

 

[Rob Gaskin]

On the contrary, the rad in that car was never changed in period and I can't imagine that the Works team built it, tested it and raced it without it working properly. There were triple and quad core versions of such rads, too.

I think you'll find that the one on the car today ( a stock rad, sourced from another model of car ) was fitted because the original Works rad was found to have silted up over the years.....

Yep, I have huge admiration for Japanese engineering.

 

[tel240z]

Looks like a neat solution. I assume it had the same / similar issue despite the taller rad.

As I'm using S130 thermostat housing, I have a take off I can use.




Terry,

Out of interest, what cylinder head casting do you have ?
Stock or electric water pump ?
I assume your reason for doing this was for issues reasons ?

Rob n42 head and block felpro gasket there are 2 types mine has all the holes to match the waterways

reasons issues

worked out that my cooling system was using the rad as its expansion vessel thats ok on a vertical flow rad because you have the top tank to take care of this and the core is always full but noticed that when the engine iscold water level set itself about 3'' below the filler neck and thought theres an air lock just waiting to happen, also noticed that the fan would cut in and out for short bursts when engine swiched off that suggested to me that steam was setting the swich on and off in the top hose, so all in all i needed a head of water to keep everything full with no air in the system, the bonus is the water is circulating all the time from start up and now holds an extra 3 litres of coolant and IMO no air pockets in the head
i run the standard belt driven w/pmp

 

[SeanDezart]

One fix is to add a presurised header tank (one with a proper relief cap) plumb the top into the stat housing and the bottom into the inlet of the water pump inlet, then fit a locking cap to the radiator.

What is the other fix (s) please ?

 

[Rob Gaskin]

Rob, I saw the article in PPC at the weekend - wow that engine bay is fantastic!

 

[zedhead260]

Thanks Rob

Further investigation discovered an issue with the crank damper which appears to have rattled loose from its boss - so I put it back in the garage to be dealt with later.

So the outer part of the ATI damper had rattled loose from its boss and damaged the woodruff key. Crank and boss OK, so back on the road again soon (even though I am running out of weather).

 

[tel240z]

Hmm was the crankshaft centre bolt very tight when you removed it Rob ?

 

[zedhead260]

As tight as a nun's chuff.

 

[zedhead260]

It would be nice to know which runs (with graphs) with and without the airbox produced which figures.

It took a while to get the info but here is a graph showing an earlier run with the original carbon trumpets fitted and no airbox against the adjustable trumpets with the airbox later in the day (highlighted).