It depends on what colour you put on top. I normally go with light grey depending on the top coat.Bought some paint! As much as I like the shade of the primer I thought it was about time to get the final colour. After months and months of chopping and choosing I finally settled on a original Z colour. Question is what colour primer would be the best to use? I’m thinking white, would that be the best way to go?
Thanks to some tips from Richie on detailing I went and picked up some new wax and glass cleaner from Halfords yesterday and did the first detailing of the year.
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I'd given up over the years using any kind of glass cleaner having never had good results, but I must say Meguiars Perfect Clarity glass cleaner is brilliant. Spray on and wipe off with a synthetic shammy, no spears or residue and it looked fantastic in direct sunlight.
I'd been using Auto Finesse Ultra Glaze for a few years now and always delighted with the results except that it doesn't last, perhaps a few days or so. I've tried a few waxes over the years, but never really happy with them, until now that is.. Auto Finesse Essence Wax is the best I've used. I applied it with my Rupes Mini in no time, it polished off really easy and it gives such depth to the paint work and in my book surpasses the Ultra Glaze.
Sorry Richie, I hope not to be giving any trade secrets here.... haha. Thanks for the tip, absolutely brilliant results
I’ve gone with 301 light brown metallic, a couple of people who I’ve spoke to have said light grey as well so I’ll be going with thatIt depends on what colour you put on top. I normally go with light grey depending on the top coat.
Really impressive work on the chambers, 11:8:1 sounds like big numbers, can’t wait to hear this running, it’ll sound awesome!What with Donington, Dixie’s Enviro-Strip visit, all that airbox and cable throttle fitting and tweaking, and some plain old Z driving, I’ve been having a break from working on that welded N42 I got from Japan. This was also because, after completing the port work and getting the guides installed, I’d hit a snag with my work on the first combustion chamber.
The head, if you remember, was a punt on Yahoo Auctions Japan; part finished and obviously a chance taken given exact specs weren’t all under my control. What I discovered was that the head had been skimmed 2mm after welding. Really, it could’ve done with being skimmed 1mm, because the bigger skim left me struggling to follow the standard Japanese measurements for the particular chamber design and hit the associated 36cc volume. So, I took a break to think and prepare for further tweaking.
This past week, I’ve spent a few hours getting medieval with the big carbides on the power drill (actually leave a much finer, more controlled finish than the dremel carbides I used before) removing more material either side of the spark plug boss. I’d also previously extended the sculpting on the quench side of the valves slightly to give more volume, but now I also scooped them out more. Cue multiple checks with the burette setup cc’ing, then digging some more, etc.
Ultimately, I hit my revised target of 34cc. Then polished the bejesus out it (mostly by hand with wet and dry and WD40!). The extra 2cc needed will be compensated for with a thicker gasket than the 1.4mm Kameari one originally bought. 1.8mm should see roughly the same total chamber and gasket volume and a comparable compression ratio of 11.8:1.
I’ve just taken measurements and started re-marking the head for the other chambers. Busted out the french curves set for some added accuracy!
Notably, I’ve switched out the Tomei 46/38 valves for the Parts Assist 45/36.5 set (which are almost identical to the equivalent Kameari ones). They are lighter weight and good for 0.5ccs or more extra over the chunkier Tomei’s. They also theoretically have the benefit of unshrouding themselves better than the bigger ones.
What with Donington, Dixie’s Enviro-Strip visit, all that airbox and cable throttle fitting and tweaking, and some plain old Z driving, I’ve been having a break from working on that welded N42 I got from Japan. This was also because, after completing the port work and getting the guides installed, I’d hit a snag with my work on the first combustion chamber.
The head, if you remember, was a punt on Yahoo Auctions Japan; part finished and obviously a chance taken given exact specs weren’t all under my control. What I discovered was that the head had been skimmed 2mm after welding. Really, it could’ve done with being skimmed 1mm, because the bigger skim left me struggling to follow the standard Japanese measurements for the particular chamber design and hit the associated 36cc volume. So, I took a break to think and prepare for further tweaking.
This past week, I’ve spent a few hours getting medieval with the big carbides on the power drill (actually leave a much finer, more controlled finish than the dremel carbides I used before) removing more material either side of the spark plug boss. I’d also previously extended the sculpting on the quench side of the valves slightly to give more volume, but now I also scooped them out more. Cue multiple checks with the burette setup cc’ing, then digging some more, etc.
Ultimately, I hit my revised target of 34cc. Then polished the bejesus out it (mostly by hand with wet and dry and WD40!). The extra 2cc needed will be compensated for with a thicker gasket than the 1.4mm Kameari one originally bought. EDITED FOR DUMBASSERY AND PUTTING THE WRONG DATA IN THE ENGINE CALCULATOR! (I could use the 1.4 - CR would be up from 11.88 to 12.03:1)
I’ve just taken measurements and started re-marking the head for the other chambers. Busted out the french curves set for some added accuracy!
Notably, I’ve switched out the Tomei 46/38 valves for the Parts Assist 45/36.5 set (which are almost identical to the equivalent Kameari ones). They are lighter weight and good for 0.5ccs or more extra over the chunkier Tomei’s. They also theoretically have the benefit of unshrouding themselves better than the bigger ones.
Good question. There's not much that can be done about that really, other than welding again, which negates the value in having grabbed this head in the first place. There's always going to be some voids present. It was a concern when I first got the head, but Pmac made the point that even the welded, CNC ported P90 on Steve Kiddell's Time Attack 240Z (now Matt Bannister's) had voids present.Love your work Rich. Are those weld voids in the chamber tops going to cause you any problem running that compression etc?