Which car is this for John?
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What did you do to your Z this week?
- Thread starter jonbills
- Start date
Which car is this for John?
johnymd
Club Member
This is the engine I had built a year or so ago. 2.8 bored to 88.5mm, Maxpeeding 240z rods, ld28 crank, JE pistons at deck height (then 0.5mm off deck!!) n42 samuri conversions head, 480" lift isky cam. After the first cam died in 200 miles (Spring rate too high and poor cam/followers), I've had the engine rebuilt with a reground nissan cam by kent cams and nissan rockers, DJ springs, and longer valves. Hoping for better luck this time around.
ben240z
Club Member
What do you think of the Maxpeeding rods?
I have had different opinions of them with someone having a set that were not all the same length and one bent rod
johnymd
Club Member
My engine builder’s words were you get what you pay for. The machining isn’t perfect and a few sharp machining edges that needed rounding off. Lengths were all the same and weights close enough. He considered them suitable for my use and moderate revs. Clearly not as well made as the better makes but then they are a third of the price.
240L31
Club Member
Same here, I'm running the same rods. There were a few burrs I had to remove but all the dimensions were spot on. My set was very well weight matched. In my opinion these are much better than the 9mm 240z stock rods.
I think the new rods were a few hundred grams lighter per piston! One of the main reasons why my engine revs so nicely. No need for a lightened flywheel.
I think the new rods were a few hundred grams lighter per piston! One of the main reasons why my engine revs so nicely. No need for a lightened flywheel.
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
I measured mine on a CMM and lengths were perfect, 2 gram max difference, which by the time they've been 'worked' will be removed. for the cost, amazing really.
They're in a zx10r super stock engine I know of that's doing unto 14000rpm most time's its running, with no current issues.
+1, mine see 8k rpm regularly and no problems for 5 years.
For my new LD3.2 they were happy to customise for next to nothing. (although that engines not running yet, so...)
The rat car?
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
Is that the one with the Franky cranky?
Alphabettispaghetti
Club Member
glad to see part of me lives on. Don’t break me.
toopy
Club Member
Stared at it with the bonnet up for far longer than needed, pumped up the tyres, closed the bonnet, closed the garage!
I know once it's out the garage, i need to faff about with the MC and booster...... again, and i don't want to face lying in the footwell all contorted anytime soon.
I need to fix the apparently inadequate gap between pushrod and MC. Once the car and brake fluid warm up after about 10 minutes, the front brakes start to bind on and will eventually lock, once cooled they release. As a quick fix to get me home last time i used the car, i placed a single washer between each of the four booster bolts and the back of the MC, which cured the binding, but now the pedal travels too far for my liking!
I know once it's out the garage, i need to faff about with the MC and booster...... again, and i don't want to face lying in the footwell all contorted anytime soon.
I need to fix the apparently inadequate gap between pushrod and MC. Once the car and brake fluid warm up after about 10 minutes, the front brakes start to bind on and will eventually lock, once cooled they release. As a quick fix to get me home last time i used the car, i placed a single washer between each of the four booster bolts and the back of the MC, which cured the binding, but now the pedal travels too far for my liking!
You've posted in the wrong thread ha ha. We need one entitled 'what I need to do to my car this week '
Mark N
Club Member
That pushrod adjustment should be done from the engine bay not the footwell.
uk66fastback
Club Member
Finally the engine runs ... more of an update later