Discussion in 'Anything and everything' started by jonbills, Apr 11, 2017.
Wondered what forum I was on for a second there...
Major step forward in the monster rebuild. Spend a couple of days building a pair of dollies to sit the shell on so I can fit a spare block, blank head and empty gearbox casing so I can get the exhaust fitting snuggly.
Also because of the way I have attached them to the shell I can now bolt on the suspension to get that modification finished off
Back on the car tomorrow. Woohoo
Nice looking dog ☺
This week I 'ave mostly been repainting my starter motor...
Gave it a bit of a general clean up in the surrounding area too. It's bloody heavy - over 6kg! When I hung it up to spray it I made sure it was only a few inches off the floor in case the zip ties snapped.
Footed an earth lead from the battery to the bulkhead.
Seen some cars with this, some without - any particular advantage?
Peace of mind mostly.
Swapped the engine on the silver car with my new stroker last Sunday.
Today I made a start on fitting the inlet, hayabua itb’s And wiring. Fitted the 2 knock sensors and started making notes on all the changes to make this work. Nothing major but lots of little things to re-engineer.
Well impressed, great engineering. The knock sensor stuff is interesting, very keen to see how that goes. Is this quite a high compression motor?
The inlet trumpets look like they’re made for the job
looks good John. I was wondering what you wer up to.
do you mean hayabusa? is this the engine with my crank in? what overall build did you go for in the end?
Compression is 11.4:1 and with the n42 head design there may be a tendency to knock. The f88 is more than capable of nipping it in the bud so why not use it. 2 sensors on a 6 pot mean better accuracy when listening and the f88 has plenty of inputs. I want to try and get the most out of this engine and still have great drivability.
Yes it’s your crank frankly and I do appreciate you letting me abuse it. Gsx1300r itb’s.
so Hayabusa. Glad to see my investments getting some use
Did you weld up the head John or just skim it down to get that comp ratio ?
Changed the engine oil and filter.
I'll do the box and diff once I've got some GL4 for the box and GL5 for the diff.
Had to get the oil hot so took it for a run up to check on the motorhome. Got home and left it ticking over and the fans started running. Temps were OK according to the gauge. However, the fans were running backwards sucking air from the engine bay and pushing it towards the grille!
I swapped over the leads and after changing the oil I ran it up again. Unfortunately I then noticed the rad was leaking either from the filler neck or the overflow pipe.
When I change a component I like to upgrade so I'll be looking on here for recommendations/ideas.
Also while driving the flexi vent hose dropped onto my feet. Secured it in place using large cable ties as hose clips.
The idle once hot was a bit fast (1200) so I've tweaked that down to 900.
I put my head back on the engine, and it still works!
It only came off because I thought my valve springs were too stiff.
It turns out the old springs were tired and only 85 lb, the new ones are stiffer at 110. oh well.
I’ve just stripped my new head again cos I thought something must be amiss, 45-50nm to turn the cam on a fully built head. I was starting to think about cam binding etc. Dropped all the rockers out and the cam floats round. I’m on Schneider springs which I think are around 110. I spoke to Dave Rebello what his experience is and he says generally about 70Ibft to turn the cam. He also said they tested on varying spring pressures and they don’t loose power on stiffer springs, but obv suffer less valve bounce on the bigger cams.
Hey Jon, those trumpets look like hippo ears.
Bit like an Imp then ;-)
Yeah, these are Schneider springs - the old one were (meant to be) 68025 with a seat pressure of 125lb and the new ones are 68022.
I thought the old ones were too heavy because I had some damage to my cam. But obvs not, when measured they were 85 lb. I think they're tired from spending too much time > 8000 rpm
The new ones do measure 110 at 41 mm, but we installed them at 42 mm so they're about 100 since the old one had no problem with valve bounce.
When I take it off again in the winter to go on the LD31 we'll measure and see how much they've lost.
50 nm to turn the cam doesn't seem so much to me!
My n42 head has not been welded up but has had 0.5mm taken off it. Block was also decked by the same amount.
Jon - I notice you have done the head rear coolant mod. Can you share any experience on this?
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