I was thinking Rich, that's a lot of work and cost for Dixie.Great work Richie. Love that colour too. Reckon you'll be able to keep your paint booth set up?! Maybe you can paint my car in the future...
I was thinking Rich, that's a lot of work and cost for Dixie.Great work Richie. Love that colour too. Reckon you'll be able to keep your paint booth set up?! Maybe you can paint my car in the future...
That's a strange engine swapSo this lovely thing arrived:
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Should save my hearing and make things more efficient. Will plumb in all the fresh lines tonight to avoid any oil contamination. Looking forward to doing some more painting with it!
Itās not ideal to say the least. I wouldāve preferred to have been doing this a month ago, but inadequate spare time and getting everything set up right has dragged it out. Iām having to wait longer between coats due to temperature. I desperately want to get the clear done before the temps drop much lower, otherwise itāll be on ice until spring. Finishing the bay is important because I can actually start assembling certain things after that, even if the exterior panels of the shell are still in primer. Never mind the list of DIY jobs in the house has exploded and Iāve been faffing with the car instead!..No problems with the atmosphere this time of year Rich? The car is looking fantastic.
Would you go for a keying of the base? There seems to be quite a bit of to-and-fro online about this topic. There seems to be some evidence that the whole thing about needing to shoot lacquer wet-on-wet/soon after base is more a "CYA" move by paint manufacturers to cover themselves against vehicles being left in suboptimal conditions (contaminated) and the resulting clear coat failure being blamed on them. I think someone from one of the US paint manufacturers (Southern Urethanes if I remember rightly) actually confirmed this and stated that 2k clears should chemically adhere without issue even if the base is fully hardened and not scuffed.Shame you didn't get the opportunity to clear it shortly after base - it really helps to chemically bind it but a key and clear will be fine! Looks good so far Rich. I really don't miss doing the bodywork on mine! Such a long job! And I still haven't flatted and mopped it yet, hope I don't mess that up!
Would you go for a keying of the base? There seems to be quite a bit of to-and-fro online about this topic. There seems to be some evidence that the whole thing about needing to shoot lacquer wet-on-wet/soon after base is more a "CYA" move by paint manufacturers to cover themselves against vehicles being left in suboptimal conditions (contaminated) and the resulting clear coat failure being blamed on them. I think someone from one of the US paint manufacturers (Southern Urethanes if I remember rightly) actually confirmed this and stated that 2k clears should chemically adhere without issue even if the base is fully hardened and not scuffed.
On further reading, some of the stuff Iād seen online didnāt hold up to scrutiny; also I had word with the paint factors I use, given itās their own brand base and clear, and they recommend keying with grey scotchbrite, shooting another final coat of base, flash off, then clear. Iām using extra fast thinner with the base and similar for the clear hardener, given temperatures and conditions. On the plus side, the āboothā warms up very fast with even a small heater blower given all the plastic sheeting involved, so post painting, Iāve been able to really boost the temperature in there.Itās just the process I was taught, every professional painter Iāve met has always keyed and cleared over a base if itās had time to cure. From what I know too, the base coat can absorb moisture, which in your cold garage may be an issue if you clear over it too late and you donāt want to be repeating all this work again. Is it just the bay youāve done so far? Iād get a clear on it asap and get some extra fast hardener.
As Iāve said many times, loving your work Mr Richie. I must admit I really like that colour as is, as a kind of satin finish.Finally got the basecoat done this weekend. Had a few issues that threw my plans out but got there in the end. Annoyingly, I had a simple blow in to do where there had been a little issue, but a fitting on my gun had come lose without my noticing and it spat drips all over the left shock tower, meaning I had to wait, sand, and do it over again. Had no motivation to put more hours in on the clear coat, so that may be another week away.
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Sounds good Richie - I was going to suggest consulting with the supplier.On further reading, some of the stuff Iād seen online didnāt hold up to scrutiny; also I had word with the paint factors I use, given itās their own brand base and clear, and they recommend keying with grey scotchbrite, shooting another final coat of base, flash off, then clear. Iām using extra fast thinner with the base and similar for the clear hardener, given temperatures and conditions. On the plus side, the āboothā warms up very fast with even a small heater blower given all the plastic sheeting involved, so post painting, Iāve been able to really boost the temperature in there.
Iām going to be super popular taking another weekend day on this particular exercise, but it needs to get finished.
Primer was nice and even, colour also went on well, lacquer looks great when wet but dries to more of a satin effect. Sand and buff will hopefully fix the issue then.Bay looks pretty decent, but should look much better after some sanding. What kind of finish are you aiming for? A little peel like oem or mostly flat?
Toopy - It could look a little satin because you put 5 coats on, thats a lot, I would definitely wet sand that back. I go max 3 coats, If I were to do 5 then its because I would intend to cut it back starting with 600 to get it super flat.
Usually the finish is dictated by gun settings and applicator skill, but with a rattle can, you are limited when it comes to clear, but for base it not an issue.
Also, how flat was the primer stage? very important to have primer super flat as everything shows up once its shiny.