yellowz
Club Member
You can get the fuel hose in the UK example - https://www.autosiliconehoses.com/rubber-hose-fuel-oil-nbr-pipe-automotive-hoses-black.html
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Sunbaked '76 Cali 280z
- Thread starter Robotsan
- Start date
Paul_S
Club Member
I have a spanner like that and it's 10mm one end and 11mm the other.
The great thing about getting the right tool is not just preventing rounding of the nipple, but also that it's slimmer than a conventional spanner and allows more turning before the spanner hits the calliper. Also, on my 370Z it saves damaging the paint.
Robotsan
Club Member
Is it all the same diameter then?
Robotsan
Club Member
Jacked the car up for the first time, from the big bar behind the diff. All went very smoothly with no nasty noises or creaks. Then lowered it down onto axle stands with the slotted rubber pads on to fit round the sill jacking points. Again no nasty noises when lowering onto those.
Drained what little fuel was left inside and it looked pretty good to be honest, which is not that surprising as Mike said the PO did clean it out after the car was sat in a barn for 20 years. There are some specks of rust in there though, so I'm guessing installing one of those little in-line filters is the best plan for now?
Next job today is going to be to try and test the fuel gauge using @yellowz 's fuel sender he is kindly lending me for the job
Drained what little fuel was left inside and it looked pretty good to be honest, which is not that surprising as Mike said the PO did clean it out after the car was sat in a barn for 20 years. There are some specks of rust in there though, so I'm guessing installing one of those little in-line filters is the best plan for now?
Next job today is going to be to try and test the fuel gauge using @yellowz 's fuel sender he is kindly lending me for the job
Robotsan
Club Member
Robotsan
Club Member
Jacked the car up for the first time, from the big bar behind the diff. All went very smoothly with no nasty noises or creaks. Then lowered it down onto axle stands with the slotted rubber pads on to fit round the sill jacking points. Again no nasty noises when lowering onto those.
View attachment 53144
View attachment 53145
Drained what little fuel was left inside and it looked pretty good to be honest, which is not that surprising as Mike said the PO did clean it out after the car was sat in a barn for 20 years. There are some specks of rust in there though, so I'm guessing installing one of those little in-line filters is the best plan for now?
View attachment 53147
View attachment 53148
Next job today is going to be to try and test the fuel gauge using @yellowz 's fuel sender he is kindly lending me for the job
Test complete. Fuel gauge is alive. So could be my sender. Won't know until I pour some more of my wallet into the tank.
Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
You're supposed to jack it up on the diff itself, and then support it at the designated supportable points. As previously advised:
I think the fuel lines are 8mm
Robotsan
Club Member
Ah, I couldn't make it out on the diagram, and Jon said the bar should be fine too, and as I mentioned it didn't make any bad sounds whatsoever so I think it was ok. I'll use the diff in the future though
I still can't make out the rear supporting locations for the axle stands. Is it on the floors just before they slope up, as someone else mentioned?
Am I ok to leave it on the axle stands as it is now, on the sill jacking points? Surely if they're ok for a single point jack lift they're even safer with a stand on each?
Robotsan
Club Member
Robotsan
Club Member
Poured 10l of fuel into the car and my gauge (with my old sender plugged in) didn't move a mm. So the sender must be dead. At least I know!
RawlinSTR
Club Member
I've currently got mine up on axle stands on the points in the images Albrecht posted, so I'll take a photo tomorrow for you.
MCBladeRun
Club Member
I should have taken a photo whilst I was in the garage.
These points are located toward the outside edges of the car, behind the dog legs?
The dog legs are the L-shape finish on the bodywork towards the lower rear of where the door shuts.
These points are located toward the outside edges of the car, behind the dog legs?
The dog legs are the L-shape finish on the bodywork towards the lower rear of where the door shuts.
Robotsan
Club Member
Robotsan
Club Member
Ran the car for 20 min again, but this time it seemed to not get as hot - maybe because of the added coolant, maybe because the cleaned up sensors/senders are working better. Who knows! But I also used the IR heat gun and covid-tested the hell out of the engine bay..
Got a range of temps off the head, but all pretty much in the ballpark of what the gauge is reading, so that's good!
Got a range of temps off the head, but all pretty much in the ballpark of what the gauge is reading, so that's good!
Robotsan
Club Member
you don't speak farenheit do you @Robotsan ? I thought you were under 60
Haha I am, I'm just sticking with it because the car's gauge is in Farenheit so it was easier for my simple brain to measure the temps in it!
By the way, in case anyone was wondering, the head of a small cat is 82°F.
Looks like I'm about to execute the poor little bastard. Oops.
Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
No, I wouldn't. The sill jacking points were 'emergency' (wheel/tyre change) lift points for the on-board scissor jack, designed to lift a wheel on one side just enough to change it. Frankly I would have avoided them at all costs even when the cars were new, unless it was unavoidable and brief.
I'm worried that you will collapse your doglegs/sills/inner sill structure, even a little. That's a one-way street. There's a safety element too. Don't risk it, please. Pretty please.
The factory-designated rear Supportable Points are easy to spot (the photo GI-10 speaks for itself, surely?) and are structural rather than cosmetic. They are also SAFE. Please use them.