Sunbaked '76 Cali 280z

Both floors now done with Dodo Mat Hex. Decided not to lay the closed cell foam layer yet as it's quite delicate looking so would probably get damaged while all the other work is going on. Might add it to the trans tunnel when I come to do the vinyl on the tunnel, but will leave the floors till the interior is nearly done.

PXL_20221009_164122513.jpg
 
Robotsan said:
Both floors now done with Dodo Mat Hex. Decided not to lay the closed cell foam layer yet as it's quite delicate looking so would probably get damaged while all the other work is going on. Might add it to the trans tunnel when I come to do the vinyl on the tunnel, but will leave the floors till the interior is nearly done.

View attachment 53963
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That's looking really good.
 
Slightly frustrating evening tinker.

Attempted to remove the rear plastic trim which has the courtesy light in, but I'm baffled by the plastic rivet clip things:

PXL_20221011_182330060~2.jpg

I've got similar on the M3 and our old BMW Mini, but with those I just push the pin in, and then the outer part comes out fairly easily.

I've tried that with these, and the pin only moves maybe 1mm in. Which doesn't seem to aid removal in the slightest. I managed to get a forked plastic trim tool behind the rivet by pressing the panel upwards to create space. But even with a fair bit of force the rivet didn't want to budge, and I'm really trying to avoid snapping them or damaging the panel.

Can anyone describe the technique please? I
 
Then I wanted to replace the little plastic piece which holds the horn contact on the steering wheel, with the new one that @Jason McIvor kindly printed for me, only to realise I have to remove the whole bastard steering wheel, which from experience on other cars is never easy.

Then I realised I don't actually have a socket big enough for the central nut! Can anyone tell me the exact size? Looks like 20 or even 22?

And then once that's removed, I'm guessing it's just a matter of brute force to pull the wheel off?
 
Oh and I test-fitted the vinyl for the inner sills that I bought from ZStore. Absolute pants. None of the cut outs for the seat supports or anything like up right. So I'm guessing they've sent me a 240 kit instead.

I guess I'll have to try and make my own!
 
You need to push them through the plastic rivet. They’ll drop through and hopefully you can then collect them later …

A tiny squirt of WD40 ain’t gonna hurt. Some of them ain’t gonna have moved in a looooong time.

Don’t try and lever the rivet off without the dowel bit being pushed out. Watch those plastic trim areas - they’ll be very brittle and you can crack them just by looking at them. Once the dowel is out, the rivet should fall out easily …
 
uk66fastback said:
You need to push them through the plastic rivet. They’ll drop through and hopefully you can then collect them later …

A tiny squirt of WD40 ain’t gonna hurt. Some of them ain’t gonna have moved in a looooong time.

Don’t try and lever the rivet off without the dowel bit being pushed out. Watch those plastic trim areas - they’ll be very brittle and you can crack them just by looking at them. Once the dowel is out, the rivet should fall out easily …
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Thanks! So we are pushing the pin into the rivet, rather than pulling them out?

Just cos I just found this video where the dude is pulling them out the front.

They really didn't feel like they would move, but I'll try again some sort of lubricant tomorrow!
 
I think the steering wheel nut may even be 24mm, I can check tomorrow.
probably best to use a puller to remove it. It might have a couple of threaded holes to put the legs of the puller in.
 
Robotsan said:
Thanks! So we are pushing the pin into the rivet, rather than pulling them out?

Just cos I just found this video where the dude is pulling them out the front.

They really didn't feel like they would move, but I'll try again some sort of lubricant tomorrow!
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Yup, you push the pin all the way through the rivet. I often have to use a small screwdriver or drift and hit the end of the screwdriver with my fist (read mallet) to get them all the way through.
 
jonbills said:
I think the steering wheel nut may even be 24mm, I can check tomorrow.
probably best to use a puller to remove it. It might have a couple of threaded holes to put the legs of the puller in.
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Thanks! Going by the FSM, that's exactly right about the threaded holes.

What kind of puller do I need?
 
RawlinSTR said:
Yup, you push the pin all the way through the rivet. I often have to use a small screwdriver or drift and hit the end of the screwdriver with my fist (read mallet) to get them all the way through.
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Ok cool, I'll just put a bit more effort in then! Thank you.
 
Robotsan said:
Thanks! Going by the FSM, that's exactly right about the threaded holes.

What kind of puller do I need?
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this sort of kit has the right bits.
www.ebay.co.uk

14Pcs Bearing Puller Separator Set 2" & 3" Splitters Jaw Gear Pulley Removal Kit | eBay

Includes an extra 2-jaw puller (L-leg puller) for working with gears, pulleys, and fly-wheels. 1x 3"(7.6cm) Bearing separator jaws (Splitters). 1x 2"(5cm) Bearing separator jaws (Splitters). HEAVY-DUTY DURABILITY: Built with rugged drop-forged construction and heat-treated to withstand rigorous...
www.ebay.co.uk
 
jonbills said:
this sort of kit has the right bits.
www.ebay.co.uk

14Pcs Bearing Puller Separator Set 2" & 3" Splitters Jaw Gear Pulley Removal Kit | eBay

Includes an extra 2-jaw puller (L-leg puller) for working with gears, pulleys, and fly-wheels. 1x 3"(7.6cm) Bearing separator jaws (Splitters). 1x 2"(5cm) Bearing separator jaws (Splitters). HEAVY-DUTY DURABILITY: Built with rugged drop-forged construction and heat-treated to withstand rigorous...
www.ebay.co.uk
Click to expand...

Brilliant thanks. Can these be used to get bushes out too by any chance?!
 
Robotsan said:
Both floors now done with Dodo Mat Hex. Decided not to lay the closed cell foam layer yet as it's quite delicate looking so would probably get damaged while all the other work is going on. Might add it to the trans tunnel when I come to do the vinyl on the tunnel, but will leave the floors till the interior is nearly done.

View attachment 53963
Click to expand...

Looking good, you're right about the closed cell stuff, lay it last before the carpet goes down as you're right it will get damaged otherwise when doing other work inside the car.
 
Steering wheel, I have never had to use a puller on the steering wheel. I simply loosen the main nut but don't remove it completely, then tug the wheel at different positions around the clock and the wheel will eventually let loose....can take several minutes and a good amount of tugging but just work your way around the wheel. If you remove the center nut completely, the wheel can take out a tooth or puncture a lip hole for a new metal lip ring.

The rivet pins almost always need to be pushed through.

Good luck, Mike
 
SacCyclone said:
Steering wheel, I have never had to use a puller on the steering wheel. I simply loosen the main nut but don't remove it completely, then tug the wheel at different positions around the clock and the wheel will eventually let loose....can take several minutes and a good amount of tugging but just work your way around the wheel. If you remove the center nut completely, the wheel can take out a tooth or puncture a lip hole for a new metal lip ring.

The rivet pins almost always need to be pushed through.

Good luck, Mike
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Cheers Mike, I'll give that a go. And safety advice heeded!

I managed to get the rivets off today (really not hard, I feel like a div for asking how they work! 😂). I lost the little pins inside the roof bar thing, predictably. I'm hoping replacements are available?!

Also managed to rip the scooby doo mystery machine headlining off. Got the fun job of getting the remaining sticky crap off. At least I've got a solid headlining to use as a template for the new.

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Even the metal fasteners on the back of the buttons were rusty!

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