Its arrived V2.0 :)

uk66fastback

Club Member
What are you going to use for the stonechip? Isn’t there a method, varying the pressure, to achieve the look you seem to have elsewhere?
I’ve bought some of the Wurth stuff in grey for my 944/general use but not done it yet
 
What are you going to use for the stonechip? Isn’t there a method, varying the pressure, to achieve the look you seem to have elsewhere?
I’ve bought some of the Wurth stuff in grey for my 944/general use but not done it yet

Hi,

i've got some etch primer, then rattle can stuff that can be painted over again, so it should allow me to get great coverage, without it looking like the moon's surface.
 
worlds slowest progress. Life is just too busy now days:(

I've been having a ruddy nightmare getting the wheel bearings right. Think I've sussed it, but needed to put a wheel on to check for play. far from ready for it.

Good chance to also check my new finned alloy drums
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Woody928

Events Officer
Staff member
Club Member
This is going to look mega when finished, I hope you drive it like you stole it when the time comes!
 
Got on with some bits i'd been putting off due to the 'fear' of doing it.

There was a tiny bit of over 'blasting' from the second round of paint that left the bottom of the rails looking like they could suffer, along with the lovely original panel joins in the wheel well, that would be prone to water ingress, so it was stripped, etched/sealed/primed/stone chipped and painted.

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stone chip
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all under the front also.

Then paint

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Once that was done, subframes and ARB's.

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Rear wheel bearings finally sorted. I've got a technique now, after all the practice I had! I shimmed the companion flange 1mm using 0.5mm shims, wheels turn nice and freely.

A dry build of the front suspension

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I've an issue, where the lower adjuster on the front strut hits the balljoint thread.

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only needs 3mm to clear
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However a set of RCA's/bump steer spacers will do the job. Common american ones are 1" which I think is far too much, 15-18mm would do myself fine.

I've concern over how close to the frame rail the front arb is.
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I can't remember how close the standard one is. a 'fix' would be to increase the thickness of the spacer/spreader plate under the chassis rail and cutting some length out of the distance piece on the arb link. I'll measure how much travel I get before it hits first.

I did drop it on its wheels for the first time in 7-8 years.

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Ian

Club Member
Great work. Can't wait for my car to be at this stage again. Love to see cars looking that clean underneath, unfortunately its so hard to keep them that way, even with driving mine in the dry it still seems to get dirty easily down there.


For several reasons a rear mounted rear anti-roll bar would benefit my setup, only thing putting me off is I prefer my bars to be not so stiff and any rear mount bars are a good bit thicker than factory.




Do you know how much your cage weighs? Still sort of considering a half cage for mine but would like to know how many KGs it could add and even a weld in cage would be similar to that Safety Devices one so weight would be close. Mine has clearly had a cage in it at some point, going my the mounting it look like it could have been a safety devices bolt in, so a bolt in is still an option also.
 
Great work. Can't wait for my car to be at this stage again. Love to see cars looking that clean underneath, unfortunately its so hard to keep them that way, even with driving mine in the dry it still seems to get dirty easily down there.


For several reasons a rear mounted rear anti-roll bar would benefit my setup, only thing putting me off is I prefer my bars to be not so stiff and any rear mount bars are a good bit thicker than factory.




Do you know how much your cage weighs? Still sort of considering a half cage for mine but would like to know how many KGs it could add and even a weld in cage would be similar to that Safety Devices one so weight would be close. Mine has clearly had a cage in it at some point, going my the mounting it look like it could have been a safety devices bolt in, so a bolt in is still an option also.

Yeah, I'm just taking the view, If I do it right, I do it once, so although it looks like you could eat your dinner off it now, i'm going to cover it in clear wax before it hits the road properly.

https://www.dinitroldirect.com/prod...derbody-rust-prevention-rustproofing-chassis/

The rear roll hoop is prob about 30kg or less, Its got to come out so i'll weigh it in the future for you. For me, its worth the weight as it picks up from the back of the cills to the rear wheel wells, so should help stop a little bit of flex, ignoring that, I like the safety aspect of it, not to mention the look.

My car didn't have a rear bar from new, this is the thinnest aftermarket bar I could find, its actually quite thin at the rear. I've done the leg work to get some made in the UK if its not right, I still might get some made as i've done the hard work.

Ad at VA motorsport has the same intrax setup, i've his top mounts also, so fingers crossed its just about there from the off!

Love the rear mounted ARB as well, reminds me of the old BRE style that I have on my car.
Great work!!!!

Thanks, I think its a really neat solution and looks factory(ish).
 

Ian

Club Member
Yeah, I'm just taking the view, If I do it right, I do it once
Thats the best and cheapest way. Although inevitably there can still be things you missed or didn't think about or want to change once its running.



The rear roll hoop is prob about 30kg or less, Its got to come out so i'll weigh it in the future for you. For me, its worth the weight as it picks up from the back of the cills to the rear wheel wells, so should help stop a little bit of flex, ignoring that, I like the safety aspect of it, not to mention the look.
Thanks. For some reason 30kG is more than I expected. Definitely worth the weight on 240Z, perhaps less so on late 260Z chassis that has further chassis mods carried out. Thats what I'm still trying to decide, I expect with what I'll have done to the chassis it may be stiff enough without. But I do like the style and safety aspects of having one.




My car didn't have a rear bar from new, this is the thinnest aftermarket bar I could find, its actually quite thin at the rear. I've done the leg work to get some made in the UK if its not right, I still might get some made as i've done the hard work.
The ST bars are thought to be about the best available. Should be 19mm rear compared to my stock bar which I believe to be 16mm. Which means upgrading to 25mm (1") front bar. I might like it but if I don't I can't go back so I have to make sure its the right choice. Comes down to preference, I know some who like to run stiff ant roll and others who dislike them and in some cases remove them from certain cars. I'm normally in the middle, I like to run them but not too stuff. Thing is I actually loved how the car handles so I am reluctant to change too much.
 
Same here, I like a bit of roll, I also like compliance as its normally quicker over our rubbish UK roads. My hope is with the tried and tested shocks/topmounts(caster/camber) it should be about right. Fingers crossed.

I wouldnt' be surprised if the hoop is less. What i'll do is measure the length of tube, find its weight online then add a couple of kg's for feet etc, that should be 95% right.
 
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