Kieronpollock
Club Member
Keep the dosh, let’s just call it an admin fee - have a beer on us in thanks for your efforts
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Best way to refurb sump pan?
- Thread starter Robotsan
- Start date
Robotsan
Club Member
Ok.. I have found the oil leak and it is definitely coming from the sump gasket.
I cleaned the sump up and then ran the car for 20 min, and it revealed itself. See the video below.
So now I'm in a quandary and could do with some advice..
I want to take advantage of the subframe and suspension being off (while @richiep welds my coilovers on for me), so the optimistic side of me wants to take the sump off now and try to sort this leak out, bash the dent out and paint / powder coat it.
But the more pessimistic side of me, after reading many threads on various Z forums, thinks I could be opening up a big can of worms and may end up bending the lips of the sump in trying to remove it. And then it sounds like a lot of work trying to straighten them to within the right tolerances to not have a leak, even with a new gasket. It's not like the leak is particularly catastrophic either. It's just I like doing things when the opportunity to do them is there.
So if I don't do this myself now, the only real alternative is to take it somewhere for this work once it's on the road this summer.
If I did, should I take it to some kind of classic specialist? As I'd want someone who would spend the time to get the sump flanges/lips and bolt holes flat, and install the new gaskets (and maybe the main cap side seals too), and not just some mechanic who'll bung a shitload of RTV in there to seal it. I'd also want the dent sorting out and the sump painting or powder coating.
What do you guys think?
I cleaned the sump up and then ran the car for 20 min, and it revealed itself. See the video below.
So now I'm in a quandary and could do with some advice..
I want to take advantage of the subframe and suspension being off (while @richiep welds my coilovers on for me), so the optimistic side of me wants to take the sump off now and try to sort this leak out, bash the dent out and paint / powder coat it.
But the more pessimistic side of me, after reading many threads on various Z forums, thinks I could be opening up a big can of worms and may end up bending the lips of the sump in trying to remove it. And then it sounds like a lot of work trying to straighten them to within the right tolerances to not have a leak, even with a new gasket. It's not like the leak is particularly catastrophic either. It's just I like doing things when the opportunity to do them is there.
So if I don't do this myself now, the only real alternative is to take it somewhere for this work once it's on the road this summer.
If I did, should I take it to some kind of classic specialist? As I'd want someone who would spend the time to get the sump flanges/lips and bolt holes flat, and install the new gaskets (and maybe the main cap side seals too), and not just some mechanic who'll bung a shitload of RTV in there to seal it. I'd also want the dent sorting out and the sump painting or powder coating.
What do you guys think?
uk66fastback
Club Member
What JB says. It’s a ‘70s metal sump covering some oily bits. Get it off, renew the seals and gasket - get the mating surfaces as good as you can and then get it on again …
Robotsan
Club Member
Having some trouble getting this sump off.
All the bolts are off obviously, and subframe is off and out of the way. Engine is supported by a beam. I've lowered the engine as far as possible (the fan blades are touching the casing).
I've used both a Stanley knife and a putty knife, and have got the latter to go all the way through the gasket but only on the right side of the engine - the lower side. I can't get it through on the front or the left side, even when smacking it as hard as I can with a 4kg mallet. It feels like it's hitting metal when I hammer it on the left side.
I don't dare use a chisel or anything like that for fear of damaging the mating surface of the block, or bending the lip of the sump too much. I could probably get something into the right hand side now in order to lever it off, but is that ok?
Any tips or advice greatly appreciated.
All the bolts are off obviously, and subframe is off and out of the way. Engine is supported by a beam. I've lowered the engine as far as possible (the fan blades are touching the casing).
I've used both a Stanley knife and a putty knife, and have got the latter to go all the way through the gasket but only on the right side of the engine - the lower side. I can't get it through on the front or the left side, even when smacking it as hard as I can with a 4kg mallet. It feels like it's hitting metal when I hammer it on the left side.
I don't dare use a chisel or anything like that for fear of damaging the mating surface of the block, or bending the lip of the sump too much. I could probably get something into the right hand side now in order to lever it off, but is that ok?
Any tips or advice greatly appreciated.
Robotsan
Club Member
Got it off.
Managed to get the inside nice and clean with brake cleaner.
But it has rusted around the mating surface of the lip so I kind of want to get it blasted. But then there's the issue of getting media stuck in the bits around the welded in plate/baffle/whatever it's called.
I could sand that area back myself, but then I'd need to paint the mating surface to stop it rusting again. Is that a bad idea, to have a painted mating surface?
Managed to get the inside nice and clean with brake cleaner.
But it has rusted around the mating surface of the lip so I kind of want to get it blasted. But then there's the issue of getting media stuck in the bits around the welded in plate/baffle/whatever it's called.
I could sand that area back myself, but then I'd need to paint the mating surface to stop it rusting again. Is that a bad idea, to have a painted mating surface?
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Robotsan
Club Member
Ok nice one. I might do that side of the lip myself then.
MCBladeRun
Club Member
As someone who hasn't done this, how easy would you say it was? It sounds like you weren't confident you were going to get it off without breaking it?
Huzzah all the same bud
Normally brittle plasticky bits in the sump are sealant from the cam cover baffle. But that does look like something else. Perhaps a bit of chain guide? Thats the only plastic I can think of in the engine.
Robotsan
Club Member
As someone who hasn't done this, how easy would you say it was? It sounds like you weren't confident you were going to get it off without breaking it?
Huzzah all the same bud
In hindsight, pretty easy! You've definitely done much harder things. Although bear in mind what has made it much easier is having no suspension, steering rack, ARB or subframe in the way! I would hate to try it with that all in place.
But once I got the putty knife in and started to lever that against the block, it started to come away pretty quick. Then once I could get a finger in, it just pulled off. Just have to make sure you're at TDC and be careful of the oil pickup.
Robotsan
Club Member
Oh, the cam cover baffle is plastic? Is it black plastic? What about the chain guide?
This is almost 100% part of a washer I would say. So there's a bit missing.. which I either scooped out without noticing, or is still up there somewhere
The chain guides are steel and plastic. The cam cover baffle is steel, but its sealed into the cam cover with some goop that is brittle and plasticky after 50 years.Oh, the cam cover baffle is plastic? Is it black plastic? What about the chain guide?
This is almost 100% part of a washer I would say. So there's a bit missing.. which I either scooped out without noticing, or is still up there somewhere
If it is a washer, its for a big bolt. Sort of the size of the cam pulley bolt. But it's washer is steel.
Perhaps some previous owner put a plastic washer on it?
I wouldn't worry about it.
Robotsan
Club Member
I've decided to just paint the whole thing myself now. So will take the outside and the lip down to bare metal, then zinc primer before paint.
But then which paint would be better, enamel or epoxy?
Was thinking either this: https://www.frost.co.uk/vht-epoxy-all-weather-paint-aerosol-312g/
Or this: https://www.frost.co.uk/vht-high-te...-black-engine-enamel-paint-312g-aerosol-p471/
I'm going gloss black as oil leaks and oily fingerprints won't show up as much
But then which paint would be better, enamel or epoxy?
Was thinking either this: https://www.frost.co.uk/vht-epoxy-all-weather-paint-aerosol-312g/
Or this: https://www.frost.co.uk/vht-high-te...-black-engine-enamel-paint-312g-aerosol-p471/
I'm going gloss black as oil leaks and oily fingerprints won't show up as much
RJRACIN 240
Forum User
A wire cup or brush on a drill should be adequate to remove the rust on your oil pan. After cleaning the rust off, as mentioned before, you will probably see the holes for the affixing bolts will not be flat. If you take a hammer and a solid backing bar or piece of round stock preferably steel but solid wood should do in a pinch; you should be able to knock down the bolt holes with light hits so they are flat.
Epoxy would be the paint of choice for me as it is more durable than an enamel paint. Would use the POR 15 266 paint instead of that VHT crap. Or preferably just go with the Hummerite brand, been tried and true for years!
That plastic washer has me puzzled, I know I have seen them before, hopefully I remember and can give you a useful answer soon.
After painting pan, coat inside with a wipe down of oil to reserve the bare metal.
Epoxy would be the paint of choice for me as it is more durable than an enamel paint. Would use the POR 15 266 paint instead of that VHT crap. Or preferably just go with the Hummerite brand, been tried and true for years!
That plastic washer has me puzzled, I know I have seen them before, hopefully I remember and can give you a useful answer soon.
After painting pan, coat inside with a wipe down of oil to reserve the bare metal.
Robotsan
Club Member
Thanks! I'll be going over it with the die grinder and some poly discs, as they'll remove the rust without scratching the metal as much.
Touch wood, the holes look pretty flat. However, the whole pan doesn't sit 100% flat on a flat surface. It kind of rocks ever so slightly from one corner to the opposite end. So I will probably try to sort that with some bits of wood and a hammer.
Hmm, POR 15.. I've never heard that great things about it, especially on this side of the pond. The VHT stuff has been good for me so far, if a little eager to run. I'd rather spray it on than brush too.
Thanks re: the washer - would be good to know!
Yeah I will be oiling the pan ASAP, worried about it rusting already! Keeping it indoors at the mo
Touch wood, the holes look pretty flat. However, the whole pan doesn't sit 100% flat on a flat surface. It kind of rocks ever so slightly from one corner to the opposite end. So I will probably try to sort that with some bits of wood and a hammer.
Hmm, POR 15.. I've never heard that great things about it, especially on this side of the pond. The VHT stuff has been good for me so far, if a little eager to run. I'd rather spray it on than brush too.
Thanks re: the washer - would be good to know!
Yeah I will be oiling the pan ASAP, worried about it rusting already! Keeping it indoors at the mo