Best way to refurb sump pan?

Robotsan

Robotsan

Club Member
Hi all,

I'm in the middle of a mild underside resto on my 280z, and now I've got the subframe off and the engine supported by a beam, I'm going to tackle the sump pan, as the engine is coated in thick old oil, and it looks like a lot of that has leaked from the sump gasket.

So I'm thinking I'll clean up the block and sump as best I can with everything still attached, then remove the sump pan, clean it up, repaint it / have it powder coated, then refit with a new gasket.

The sump also has a dent in it, so was hoping I could hammer that out (although it's in the lowest part obviously, so access might be tricky!).

The bit I'm looking for advice on is the cleaning and painting of the pan part.. I've googled this and found conflicting opinions.

If the inside is rusty, is it then safe to have the inside of the pan media blasted, as well as the outside? I'm just wondering because I'm thinking it would be pretty bad news for the engine if any sand particles were left in there.

So maybe some bigger media like bead blasting would be ok?

Also can the baffle be removed to get at the area under it?

The other thing I'm wondering is, if I did get the inside blasted, would there be a danger of it then flash rusting? Should I coat it in engine oil asap maybe?

But for the outside, would powder coating be alright? It can withstand high temps can't it?

Cheers

George
 
jonbills

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
The inside won't be rusty. The baffle is spot welded on, so you're power file should be able to release it without holing the sump. You can't really clean it thoroughly without removing the baffle. Will need to be welded back on.
If you get the outside blasted and painted while the baffle is off, you can be confident there's no media in it at the end.
Don't paint the inside 😜
 
Robotsan

Robotsan

Club Member
jonbills said:
The inside won't be rusty. The baffle is spot welded on, so you're power file should be able to release it without holing the sump. You can't really clean it thoroughly without removing the baffle. Will need to be welded back on.
If you get the outside blasted and painted while the baffle is off, you can be confident there's no media in it at the end.
Don't paint the inside 😜
Click to expand...

Ok, as I thought then, nice one cheers Jon. If it isn't rusty inside maybe best bet is just a bit of a clean then to get old gunky oil off?

Maybe the inside could be masked off somehow when blasting? Although I guess there's a good chance of media still making its way in.

Removing the baffle and re-welding does sound like the best plan.

Haha no don't worry, I wouldn't paint the inside :)
 
jonbills

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Robotsan said:
Ok, as I thought then, nice one cheers Jon. If it isn't rusty inside maybe best bet is just a bit of a clean then to get old gunky oil off?

Maybe the inside could be masked off somehow when blasting? Although I guess there's a good chance of media still making its way in.

Removing the baffle and re-welding does sound like the best plan.

Haha no don't worry, I wouldn't paint the inside :)
Click to expand...
Yeah, the media will get in, but without the baffle there's nowhere for it to hide. I wouldn't bother masking it.
 
Rob Gaskin

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Just clean the inside with petrol/paraffin and hammerite the outside. You may be able to use a bent bar to prize the dent out - like professionals do with doors etc.
 
Robotsan

Robotsan

Club Member
jonbills said:
Yeah, that. I'm sure people have had success with them, but I wouldn't use that. You can get Felpro from Rockauto. Shipping is expensive because of the length, so get three or four.
Click to expand...

From the FelPro description, it sounds like their gasket is cork and rubber.. which is what I think the one I have is too?

1000039451.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top