Ive only sprayed a few smaller items with lacquer, the largest being a new starter motor, but it seems to be far less forgiving if you go a tad heavy by accident. Light almost mist coats and probably twice as many than you would with 'normal' paint.
Matt lacquer rather than satin for the no. plate holder? I’m sure I’ve read satin was the right finish but wouldn’t swear to it.
Or looking at it another way, it could be that messing up the headlight flash/full beam wiring has caused the no headlights issue!2. My indicator stalk does nothing. So either A) I've buggered something up in there, or B) it's related to the headlights issue.
Or looking at it another way, it could be that messing up the headlight flash/full beam wiring has caused the no headlights issue!
No idea, mines a non standard wheel and horn and they haven't been off in quite a few years!Any advice on the horn? Should the contact be touching the steering wheel all the time?
No idea, mines a non standard wheel and horn and they haven't been off in quite a few years!
When I first got my Z the relay would click but horn didn't function. It turned out the wires had been unplugged on the horn side.
I'd say check nothing has come loose or gone brittle and snapped between the relay and horn as a first port of call.
You could also rig up a light or something else to test the circuit in case the horn has somehow died
If the relay is clicking then I would say the problem is nothing to do with the switches. It’s at the horn end.
Get yourself a multimeter if you haven't already, you basically test switch live wires and live wires down to earth (earth being your chassis).Ah ok, good to know that.
I guess the logic is, the switch is obviously working because the signal is leaving it and making it to a relay?
My electrical knowledge is super basic tbh.. maybe I should see if there's a basics course I can do.
Get yourself a multimeter if you haven't already, you basically test switch live wires and live wires down to earth (earth being your chassis).
Switch indicator on, check it's got a live feed out. All there is to it. When you find a dead wire, that should be live, you've found what parts at fault
You may find a 12v test light simpler for your purposes of fault finding. A multimeter doesn't put any load onto a circuit (like a test light does) and sometimes you can see voltages or activity on a circuit that can be misleading. A test light is a simpler strategy for simple car fault finding like this.
A 12v Power Probe is also a useful tool. It does the same as a test light but it also allows you to push power onto a circuit or earth onto a circuit. In your case above, you could "push" an earth onto the horn contact itself to see if the horn sounds. Amazon is your friend for a cheapy one.