Sunbaked '76 Cali 280z

[toopy]

A 12v Power Probe is also a useful tool. It does the same as a test light but it also allows you to push power onto a circuit or earth onto a circuit. In your case above, you could "push" an earth onto the horn contact itself to see if the horn sounds. Amazon is your friend for a cheapy one.

Not seen one of those before, useful bit of kit for sure

 

[Robotsan]

Managed to put new battery terminal connectors on the battery so I can now quickly and more safely disconnect and connect them. Cleaned up the actual terminals again as I noticed they seem to corrode quite fast in this garage in winter, and added some dielectric grease on them to stop that happening.

Car now starts right on the turn of the key. So that's some progress.

 

[Robotsan]

However.. thought it would be a good idea to test the fuses, so I've just been busy with the test light!

The horn fuse was working (one with H), but when I connected the test light, there was that relay clicking noise again (which was coming from the fuse box) and then the horn fuse blew.

Before it blew, I noticed that even just lightly touching the horn pad would set off that clicking. So it's almost as though the horn connection was being made 100% of the time? I have checked and the horns are both plugged in.

In terms of the other fuses - cig lighter (above horn) and the wipers one (2nd from bottom on left side) were both also blown already. I put one of the spare 20a fuses in the wipers and they are working.

The top left two are the headlights - the test light wouldn't light up on either end of these.. so does that mean the current is not reaching the fuses for those / the circuit is broken? This does point to the indicator switch doesn't it.. as the headlights were working before, and they are connected to the signal switch for high beam right?

I did try another fuse in those slots but still no go.

The floor temp fuse was also not lighting the test light fuse - but that plug is disconnected under the dash - so that's what you'd expect right? Which backs up the theory that the headlight circuit is broken? Little diagram I made if the fuses after testing them the first time:

 

[candy red]

Great job on cleaning up your battery terminals and fitting new connections after that your car now starts well as for your fuse box I think that also need all those terminals cleaning tbh I think looking at these pictures and the previous pictures of electrical connections you Need to go through the whole lot of the circuits cleaning every connection and your problems could be solved as it looks like your electrical system has not faired well in damp conditions electrical contact cleaning spray an a wipe down should help.

 

[Robotsan]

Great job on cleaning up your battery terminals and fitting new connections after that your car now starts well as for your fuse box I think that also need all those terminals cleaning tbh I think looking at these pictures and the previous pictures of electrical connections you Need to go through the whole lot of the circuits cleaning every connection and your problems could be solved as it looks like your electrical system has not faired well in damp conditions electrical contact cleaning spray an a wipe down should help.

Thanks!

Yeah .. you're 100% right. It's on my to-do list!

This stuff was all working ok before I took apart the indicator switch though, so I'm pretty sure it's connected to that. If I don't get anywhere then I'll start cleaning those terminals.

 

[Robotsan]

Found some potential clues maybe ..

On the indicator switch side, none of the pins or solder points on the circuit boards are lighting the test light. Not on any key position, and not with the indicator stalk in any position.

But.. this white plug which connects 3 wires from the main harness to the indicator switch.. if I test the pins with it plugged in, I get nothing.. but ...



.. if I unplug it, I get a signal (is that even the word?!) when I test the green wire from the harness side. Plug it in again, and that stops happening. Can't get it to light up when testing either side of the plug, with any key position.

What does that mean?! I know I need to look at the wiring diagram, but just hoping someone could tell me what it means from an electrical point of view.

@MCBladeRun Martin you're an electrician aren't you? I don't suppose you can shed any light on it please?

 

[Robotsan]

And then on the headlights side, testing the wires on top gives me the following results..

The red wire is headlights, and lights up when I turn the headlights 'on'. Which is apparently what should happen. Good.



Then the white/red wire at the front (switched 12V out, for headlights when on) also works. Apparently this is connected to the fusible link so if this is working then the link is fine. Good.



Then, the green wire at the back left also lights up.. but I don't know what its for ..



BUT.. the green/white wire at the front does not light up the tester, not in any circumstances. Anyone know what that one does? I feel like it may be just an earth?



Found this write up of someone fixing his headlights and he only talks about the red and white/red wires, so I presume they're the only relevant ones for the headlights.

He also says "the wiring goes like this: Battery -> Fusible Links -> Headlight Switch -> Fuse block -> Headlights - And that is the order I would perform checks in."

So following that logic, I seem to have power at the switch, so is the fuse block the potential culprit?

 

[Robotsan]

Scratch all that .. the headlights just flickered on. And when I wiggle the wiring loom, they go on and off. So there's a bad connection somewhere in there.

AND .. the high/low beam works on the indicator stalk too.

But moving the indicator stalk up or down still does nothing.

So I believe that's something to do with the switch I disassembled.. will take it apart again and see if anything looks wrong..

 

[MCBladeRun]

Scratch all that .. the headlights just flickered on. And when I wiggle the wiring loom, they go on and off. So there's a bad connection somewhere in there.

AND .. the high/low beam works on the indicator stalk too.

But moving the indicator stalk up or down still does nothing.

So I believe that's something to do with the switch I disassembled.. will take it apart again and see if anything looks wrong..

The switch has a little ball bearing that rocks back and forth inside, have you perhaps lost that? It's integral as, it grounds those live wires creating a circuit?

 

[Robotsan]

The switch has a little ball bearing that rocks back and forth inside, have you perhaps lost that? It's integral as, it grounds those live wires creating a circuit?

The ball is still there. Can just see it in the photo below. And can see it has made a little channel in the grease I put on that little rocker lever.

Should I have used dielectric grease there? I didn't think so as no current goes through the ball does it. The ball just rolls up and down that rocker and changes the connection point for left or right indicator light doesn't it.

 

[Robotsan]

Just checked the continuity of every connection and wire on the indicator switch. All good at every point, including when I flick the switch into it's 3 different positions.

So the switch is working. And my headlights work when the wire is in the right position.

But indicators (and horn) still don't work. So I guess the problem is between the switch and the actual lights themselves? It can't be the fuses because they all now work. Maybe the connection from the fuses to the indicator lights?

Apparently the hazard switch and flasher are also in the same circuit.. so I guess I need to test those tomorrow.

WAIT A MINUTE.. my hazard switch is not even in the car.. I took the centre console out ages ago so all the wires which plug into it are disconnected .. if the hazard switch is part of this circuit, could that be why my indicators aren't working?!

I think that's going to be it.. found the below on a thread on classiczcars:



Doh.

 

[MCBladeRun]

Just checked the continuity of every connection and wire on the indicator switch. All good at every point, including when I flick the switch into it's 3 different positions.

So the switch is working. And my headlights work when the wire is in the right position.

But indicators (and horn) still don't work. So I guess the problem is between the switch and the actual lights themselves? It can't be the fuses because they all now work. Maybe the connection from the fuses to the indicator lights?

Apparently the hazard switch and flasher are also in the same circuit.. so I guess I need to test those tomorrow.

WAIT A MINUTE.. my hazard switch is not even in the car.. I took the centre console out ages ago so all the wires which plug into it are disconnected .. if the hazard switch is part of this circuit, could that be why my indicators aren't working?!

I think that's going to be it.. found the below on a thread on classiczcars:

View attachment 56515

Doh.

How much ****ing around you did to find out that's hilarious

https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1576025818182332416

For those who haven't seen the meme

 

[candy red]

Just checked the continuity of every connection and wire on the indicator switch. All good at every point, including when I flick the switch into it's 3 different positions.

So the switch is working. And my headlights work when the wire is in the right position.

But indicators (and horn) still don't work. So I guess the problem is between the switch and the actual lights themselves? It can't be the fuses because they all now work. Maybe the connection from the fuses to the indicator lights?

Apparently the hazard switch and flasher are also in the same circuit.. so I guess I need to test those tomorrow.

WAIT A MINUTE.. my hazard switch is not even in the car.. I took the centre console out ages ago so all the wires which plug into it are disconnected .. if the hazard switch is part of this circuit, could that be why my indicators aren't working?!

I think that's going to be it.. found the below on a thread on classiczcars:

View attachment 56515

Doh.

Was reading through your test and was thinking you might need to look at hazard switch as that where I had a similar problem,then went on to see it wasn’t even in the car

Think that may well be the problem

 

[Faster Behr]

Oops

 

[Robotsan]

How much ****ing around you did to find out that's hilarious

https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1576025818182332416

For those who haven't seen the meme

A lot!

But ... I learned a lot of things today so it's been far from a waste!

If I'd known the hazard switch was part of the circuit all along I'm sure there'd have been a lot less ****ing about. But also less finding out..

 

[Robotsan]

Was reading through your test and was thinking you might need to look at hazard switch as that where I had a similar problem,then went on to see it wasn’t even in the car

Think that may well be the problem

Let's hope so! If it's not then I'll be gutted/confused/sad.

 

[Robotsan]

Still got the horn (problem) to sort out too..

 

[Faster Behr]

Still got the horn (problem) to sort out too..

The good news is that fixing horns and little things like electrics must mean you are coming to the end of the big jobs and about to be on the road?

 

[Robotsan]

The good news is that fixing horns and little things like electrics must mean you are coming to the end of the big jobs and about to be on the road?

Haha.. yeah .. you'd think so I'm basically procrastinating rather than tackle the seats.
I also need more space before I do them though - so I need to board our loft ASAP to clear some room.

Other big jobs before it's road worthy are new brake cylinders, but I'm waiting on some parts for those, plus changing all the fuel hoses. So still plenty to do.

 

[Robotsan]

Good news though - the hazard switch was the answer!! So I can officially move on.