Engine Oil Brand Type

kitesurfer

Well-Known Forum User
I have an L28 engine, non turbo, twin carbs, hooked up to a 4 speed gearbox in a 240z. I intend running the car for 6 months from this April. One of the jobs in preparation for this is an oil and filter change. What would be the best brand and SAE number on the market, in peoples opinion, for my car without spending a fortune on 'branding' and easily obtainable?
Actually might have been a bit hasty on putting this up on the forum. Guess its down to the SAE number as per the manual. I was considering the classic oil from the big superstore in everyones town as I probably won't be doing a stack of miles each year!!
 
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Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
I haven't seem Lurch's recommendation for sale in the UK.

In your application I would use a 'Classic' 20W50 from one of the top brands like Castrol or Millers.
 

andrew muir

Club Member
I haven't seem Lurch's recommendation for sale in the UK.

In your application I would use a 'Classic' 20W50 from one of the top brands like Castrol or Millers.

Thats because its a Oz oil, ok for hot weather in Australia but way too thick for UK I use Millers or Fuchs with a high zinc content.
 

Farmer42

Club Member
I was going to ask the same question as Kitesurfer as I need to get some oil at some point to put in my refurbished L26 when I transplant it into the car.

I read somewhere (but not sure where) that I should use a 10W40 oil but am still not sure whether it should be semi or fully synthetic. I am now Confused .com:confused: now that people are saying they use 20W50.
 

chrisvega

Well-Known Forum User
You need an oil with high level of ZDDP ( Zinc/Phosphorous ) at least 1.3% and up to 2% if possible. This is required to lube the cam lobes and prevent rocker arm wear.

Most modern engine oils will have way too low ZDDP content, around 0.08% is fairly typical.

Valvoline VR1 and Millers classic mentioned both have high ZDDP levels so good choices.
 

toopy

Club Member
I used the Halfords Classic oil on the last change, but will be swapping to the millers classic sport next time,
as its a semi synthetic so should help keep the engine cleaner, plus the all important zddp content,
which doesnt always seem to get mentioned with other classic type oils
 

Mr.F

Inactive
I like the Millers Classic Sport - perfect for stock and mild mod L-series engines. Used to be a Millers stockist, but trade purchase requirements now too high.
 

andrew muir

Club Member
You need an oil with high level of ZDDP ( Zinc/Phosphorous ) at least 1.3% and up to 2% if possible. This is required to lube the cam lobes and prevent rocker arm wear.

Most modern engine oils will have way too low ZDDP content, around 0.08% is fairly typical.

Valvoline VR1 and Millers classic mentioned both have high ZDDP levels so good choices.

Yep I use VR1 and have also used Millers classic sport in the past, I tend to use a 10w40 as it rarly gets above 20degrees up here but used VR1 10w40 in Austria when it was nearly 40degrees and was ok only the coil seemed to not like the high temps.
The manual states a 10w40 they use a litle bit though:cheers:
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
I read somewhere (but not sure where) that I should use a 10W40 oil but am still not sure whether it should be semi or fully synthetic. I am now Confused .com:confused: now that people are saying they use 20W50.

im the same :confused:
when i asked this question last year i got told
worn engine = 20/50
new engine =10/40
and both semi synthetic

the last lot of oil i put in was 15/40 mineral oil but it looks like i might have to change that.
 

toopy

Club Member
im the same :confused:
when i asked this question last year i got told
worn engine = 20/50
new engine =10/40
and both semi synthetic

the last lot of oil i put in was 15/40 mineral oil but it looks like i might have to change that.

Nothing wrong with15w40 mineral or not, I'd happily use that grade but for what ever reason the millers or other classic branded oils
seem to be 20w50, possibly to cater for older, 50 and 60s engines as well.
Nothing wrong with a good quality mineral oil, but see the following text courtesy of Millers website :thumbs:


Both types are made from crude oil. Mineral oil is obtained directly from the refining process, whereas synthetic oils are altered by chemical processing which improves its chemical structure. Synthetic oils have better performance than mineral oils at all temperatures, and are more durable. They are more expensive but are higher quality, offer higher performance and longer life.

As the name suggests, a semi synthetic is a blend of mineral and synthetic base oils. The performance, price, quality and durability is between that of a mineral oil and fully synthetic oil. Lower quality semi synthetic oils have very little fully synthetic content and will not last as well as good quality examples.

The advantages of synthetic oils are:
• Better flow at low temperatures enabling thinner oils to be manufactured. Thinner oils are required by modern engine designers to help reduce fuel consumption and emissions.
• Higher film strength which gives better protection thereby reducing wear.
• More stable and less volatile at high temperatures, reducing oil consumption.
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
cheers toopy ;)

after reading that i think i will stick to 15/40 but what can i do about adding zddp?
is it worth running some millers 20/50 through it for 6000 miles?

regards

james
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
ahh cheers jonbills
is there instructions on the bottle for how much you add?
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
The ad says add the whole bottle. When I receive my bottle, I let you know if there's more detail
 

Jimbo

1978 260z in yellow
Club Member
is there much difference in grade requirements between the 240/260 and 280 or do all of them require the same grade dependent on climate?
 

moggy240

Insurance Valuations Officer
Staff member
Club Member
is there much difference in grade requirements between the 240/260 and 280 or do all of them require the same grade dependent on climate?

I use the same oil across all three including 280ZX
 
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