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Sunbaked '76 Cali 280z
- Thread starter Robotsan
- Start date
MCBladeRun
Club Member
By about 75% In terms of slop and play. Feels firm. Was a nightmare for me to fit for various personal reasons lolNice one. How much did it reduce the slop and play in the gear stick by, if you had to give a percentage?
Robotsan
Club Member
Thought as much, thanks. Going by what Mike said about the AFM, there's at least 1 culprit.
Robotsan
Club Member
I won't ask why!
Do you think they're as easy to fit as the plastic ones (for most people?!).Thanks, that's quite the improvement. I wonder if it feels any better than the plastic ones.. or if it's just about them lasting longer.
MCBladeRun
Club Member
Well, plastic will never be as hard wearing as metal, the brass is a type that self-lubricates if it is to be believed (I'm not a materials engineer) and they supply it with a helping of this special lubricant too. My only issue is that, 2x types of lubrication usually ends up with a mixed compound that has unknown qualitys?I won't ask why!
Thanks, that's quite the improvement. I wonder if it feels any better than the plastic ones.. or if it's just about them lasting longer.
But I digress, my point being is too many chefs spoil the broth or something. I know what I mean, I just lack the research to back up the above claim. Perhaps 2x types of lubricant is better than 1x?
I'll let you know if it catches fire from being over used lol
Robotsan
Club Member
Blimey, wasn't expecting to be worrying about double lube! Well I'm sure we'd know about it by now if anyone's car had caught fire due to it.
On ZStore it says due to manufacturing cost rises, they no longer supply it with the lube:
"*Update: Due to rapidly rising material costs, our supplier is no longer including grease with these bushings. A high end bearing grease, such as Mobile 1 Synthetic or Lucas Red N' Tacky, can be used to improve bushing life but is not required. Please give us a call if you have any questions."
So the additional lube isn't even required perhaps!
MCBladeRun
Club Member
Exactly, I thought of it as a sweetener to the deal!
But unless stringent quality testing has been done then, who knows
Robotsan
Club Member
Disappointingly, there's nothing in the troubleshooting section about running too rich. Would you say any of these things could be a king of synonym for running too rich? "Poor Gas Mileage" or "CO Too High" perhaps?
If not, I'll just start checking every connection and hose at the weekend. I'll do that anyway, but would be good to have one of these troubleshooting guides to follow too.
Robotsan
Club Member
Thanks Jon. Looks like I've got a steep learning curve ahead of me, having just read that section of the bible.
I'll get some satisfaction if I can fix this issue... but in the back of my mind I know I can also get the SUs that Mike included with the car reconditioned and installed if I fail.
Robotsan
Club Member
Looks like I'm going to need a fuel pressure test kit / gauge.
Could anyone tell me if this one will do it?: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/produ...9JcCMjyktVE6m0O7z5H1Vyc6c8QT6tjc_OmAtmnvXJpaU
Seems to cover the PSI range needed (36.3), but I don't know if the connections will be suitable?
*EDIT* - found out this is for modern cars with a schrader valve.
I think I need something more like this?: https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-injection-inline-pressure-gauge-0-100-psi
Do I want a permanent in-line gauge or a temporary one though?
Could anyone tell me if this one will do it?: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/produ...9JcCMjyktVE6m0O7z5H1Vyc6c8QT6tjc_OmAtmnvXJpaU
Seems to cover the PSI range needed (36.3), but I don't know if the connections will be suitable?
*EDIT* - found out this is for modern cars with a schrader valve.
I think I need something more like this?: https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-injection-inline-pressure-gauge-0-100-psi
Do I want a permanent in-line gauge or a temporary one though?
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toopy
Club Member
Yes, that looks more consistent with what should be happening, the temp gauge could be slightly out as it generally reads nothing initially, so a new sender/clean connections would be a good start there.
Robotsan
Club Member
Ok great, thanks Toopy. I will try and clean up as many connections as I can at the weekend, and then if that doesn't fix it I'll buy new senders.
Stupid question alert - is a sender the same as a sensor? Is it just an old fashioned version?
Kieronpollock
Club Member
I’ve used Lanoguard on a number of classic cars over the years and it’s great stuff, keeps the moisture at bay and can be used pretty much everywhere except the brakes …..I WD40 those
yellowz
Club Member
Test I did on the temp sensor was to put the connector to earth bypassing the sensor completely. I f nothing happens there is a short, if the gauge goes right round to hot you have power but the sensor is faulty.
Robotsan
Club Member
Thanks Jim, that sounds good. I might need you to talk me through how to do that though - I'm pretty green when it comes to electrics.
Robotsan
Club Member
I started pulling any electrical connectors I could see out tonight and gave the terminals a bit of a sand and a clean with electrical contact cleaner. None of them looked too bad, but I didn't get round to the AFM connector.
I have spotted some wires that aren't connected to anything in the engine bay though - perhaps they were for the broken AC gear that you removed @SacCyclone?
Firstly there's this green wire coming from this harness on the side of the engine, which ends in a round female connector:
And then there's a similar one on the other side (left side of car):
Only other potential problem I've spotted is a frayed blue seewire coming out of one of the sensors under the thermostat (can't remember which one as there's 3 there isn't there? Water, Thermotime, and another one?) - I think it's the top one of the 3?:
I have spotted some wires that aren't connected to anything in the engine bay though - perhaps they were for the broken AC gear that you removed @SacCyclone?
Firstly there's this green wire coming from this harness on the side of the engine, which ends in a round female connector:
And then there's a similar one on the other side (left side of car):
Only other potential problem I've spotted is a frayed blue seewire coming out of one of the sensors under the thermostat (can't remember which one as there's 3 there isn't there? Water, Thermotime, and another one?) - I think it's the top one of the 3?:
Attachments
SacCyclone
Club Member
Since the AC was removed some time ago, I'm sure there are wires that are loose in the engine compartment that were meant to run the compressor etc. Sorry I'm not any help there as I did not remove them and I an not a electrical guy.....probably need to consult an electrical diagram for a 280.
Robotsan
Club Member
No problem at all Mike, I thought they are probably AC related too, but just putting them up in case anyone else recognises them. Thanks I'll have a look for a diagram.
Robotsan
Club Member
Wow that is cheap, thanks Jon.
I think I'll try sorting my stock brakes out first, but good to know about this option. I have a very long pedal travel and not a huge amount of stopping power which is all right at the end! Think I need to try bleeding them don't I..