Wiring problems - no indicators or brake lights

[Steely]

Whilst I’m into this, does anyone make a good replacement fuse box? I noticed the second fuse on the right, one of the headlight fuses I believe, is getting hot after a while.
Also, my glove box was locked (and not opening with my keys) when I got the car, now I have opened it, it has no lining, any direction to a good lining, or a pattern so I can try to make one?

 

[MaximG]

Whilst I’m into this, does anyone make a good replacement fuse box? I noticed the second fuse on the right, one of the headlight fuses I believe, is getting hot after a while.
Also, my glove box was locked (and not opening with my keys) when I got the car, now I have opened it, it has no lining, any direction to a good lining, or a pattern so I can try to make one?

Glove box wise a company called Skillard do a nice replacement one, very tempted myself.

 

[MCBladeRun]

Whilst I’m into this, does anyone make a good replacement fuse box? I noticed the second fuse on the right, one of the headlight fuses I believe, is getting hot after a while.
Also, my glove box was locked (and not opening with my keys) when I got the car, now I have opened it, it has no lining, any direction to a good lining, or a pattern so I can try to make one?

So, with regards to the headlight Fuses, it's because of the draw of current that the temp is high. So 2 things you can do to remedy this-

Either build / buy a relay kit in order to remove the high amps away from the fusebox/switch instruments

Or replace the headlights with LED and eliminate the source of the high amps.

I'm doing both myself.

 

[MaximG]

Half the problem with the fuses is the box it self. The clips that hold the fuse are a sandwich of materials riveted together. Over the course of time corrosion builds up in between the sandwich and there’s nothing you can do about. All it takes is some sweat or grease from whoever put it together in the first place and corrosion with take place. These things weren’t put together in sterile conditions unfortunately.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

Yep, fusebox melting is common - happened to mine. My headlights are relayed now. By the way the headlight 'ground' is switched not the +ve!

This diagram I drew may help you to understand the indicators and hazard cct.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

...............
Also, my glove box was locked (and not opening with my keys) when I got the car, now I have opened it, it has no lining, any direction to a good lining, or a pattern so I can try to make one?

I've 'alerted' a member to your need - he has a new one.

Coincidentally I bought one off another member last week.

 

[Albrecht]

Some reference material relating to the 1971-up HLS30U model:

 

[Steely]

I want to get everything working in stock setup, familiarise myself with the loom before I modify anything, but headlight relay and splitting the wiring for the brake/flashers will be done. I would like to replace the fuse box though, surprised there isn’t a version with blade fuses.

Those diagrams above are what I have been working from, and the wiring diagram. Much of it doesn’t exactly match to what I have though, which is half the problem (the other half being me getting frustrated with the thing).

Rob, I appreciate that drawing and alerting a member to my glove box needs, will be back into that wiring tomorrow hopefully.

That skillard glove box inner looks nice, but would be concerened about getting it in from the front after reading some stories of the cardboard one. I have a couple of parts from skillard, I got the wing mirror attachment triangles, my car didn’t have wing mirrors on either side, a nice look but not so great for LHD on RHD roads! I got bullet style mirrors to attach to them, again great look but not practical, so I fitted Roberk style to the doors, I will put those fittings up in the for sale section I guess.

Thanks for your help so far, will update on my progress soon.

 

[Paul_S]

Here's a blade fuse box option that might work for you:

See here

 

[Steely]

Here's a blade fuse box option that might work for you:
See here

that is exactly what I was looking for, shame there is nothing like this in Europe, seems everything comes from the US, it’s going to cost a bit with delivery and import tax, but I think I will order it

 

[Rob Gaskin]

................. Much of it doesn’t exactly match to what I have though, which is half the problem (the other half being me getting frustrated with the thing).....

Yep with you on this. The only way to fully understand the dash loom is to remove it and unwrap it! You would be amazed at the amount of factory in-harness joins and colour changes.

 

[Steely]

that is exactly what I was looking for, shame there is nothing like this in Europe, seems everything comes from the US, it’s going to cost a bit with delivery and import tax, but I think I will order it

by the way, I am also a Paul S.. And use that ID on other websites and forums, when I saw your reply in my inbox I had to think about it for a second

 

[Albrecht]

You would be amazed at the amount of factory in-harness joins and colour changes.

This was largely because there were severe shortages of electrical wiring in Japan during that period. The massive boom in electrical and electronic products, booms in shipbuilding, local transport infrastructure and moped, motorcycle and car manufacturing caused supply problems in copper electrical wiring.

Nissan's temporary - and not so temporary - solution was to build their looms with lots of joins and changes of trace colour in the taped parts where they theoretically should not show.

 

[Steely]

Yep with you on this. The only way to fully understand the dash loom is to remove it and unwrap it! You would be amazed at the amount of factory in-harness joins and colour changes.

I think I talked yo you at the NEC last Nov, I had just got the car or I was collecting it in a week or two, I was asking about seat belts at the time, something I still need to sort out, I needed seats and a few other bits to make it drivable, circumstances put a hold on it until a few weeks ago, I’m hoping to have it up and running in the next few weeks before the end of the car season, and visit a few meets and events if anything is still happening in this horrible year.

 

[Paul_S]

by the way, I am also a Paul S.. And use that ID on other websites and forums, when I saw your reply in my inbox I had to think about it for a second

Spooky!!

 

[Rob Gaskin]

I think I talked yo you at the NEC last Nov...

No you didn't.

 

[grb184]

No you didn't.

If it was at the NEC last year then it might have been either Jon Newlyn (with his very early Orange 240z) or John Jacklin with his 240z Samuri who where on the Classic Z stand

 

[Dale]

On the subject of melting electrics, and this might be just my car, but I learned quickly that if I’m sitting at lights wanting to turn left or right to only indicate as I was about to move off. If I sat with the indicators flashing smoke would start coming from around the steering column!!

 

[MaximG]

On the subject of melting electrics, and this might be just my car, but I learned quickly that if I’m sitting at lights wanting to turn left or right to only indicate as I was about to move off. If I sat with the indicators flashing smoke would start coming from around the steering column!!

You lot are just plain scary.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

On the subject of melting electrics, and this might be just my car, but I learned quickly that if I’m sitting at lights wanting to turn left or right to only indicate as I was about to move off. If I sat with the indicators flashing smoke would start coming from around the steering column!!

Nice one Dale, so you fixed that then - just use the indicators less.