What did you do to your Z this week?

Bazzateer

Club Member
Took the 260 out for it's first drive since I collected it. Couple of issues have sprung up: petrol leak (I think from where the return pipe was plugged and caused by me brimming the tank so should be an easy fix), fuel and volt gauge light non-operative - bit more involved no doubt, no overflow pipe on the rad - new pipe and an expansion tank ordered.

z15.jpg
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I took one of the LD28s apart to save the good bits. It was outside and I didn't want the 'scrap dealer' coming by and helping himself.
I used all the appropriate tools [emoji23]
DSC_0513.jpg

It has a bonus I think in this little oil pump drive spindle. I'll have to check it against a spare front cover, but I think it will be good to not have the full length spindle flailing around without a distributor to hold the top end.
DSC_0516.jpg
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Been practicing nursery rhymes 3 times ...

1df4d50b4108193f6bd86f688442cb87.jpg
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
Working from home for now so during my lunch hour I fitted the wheels from Neil (Fairlineguy).
Damn they look good!
20200317_180737.jpg
Also fitted the nearside door release escutcheon I bought from Japan via eBay.
I'm waiting on some led bulbs for the dash instruments. Got one for the glove box but turns out the glove box light is reverse polarity so it won't work. Normal bulbs do but this led bulb is polarity sensitive. Could swap the wires round on the switch but it shares a fuse with other lights and will just blow the fuse (don't ask me how I know!). Or, I could run separate earth and power to the switch I suppose........
Just hope the dash led bulbs will work.
 
Last edited:

Bazzateer

Club Member
Positive goes to the body of the bulb and negative to the end. The led bulb only works with positive to the end and negative to the body (the normal way). I swapped the lead on the switch but it just blew the fuse as soon as everything was connected and the switch was activated.
I think I read somewhere on here that some bits were switched earth as opposed to positive, maybe that's why?
 

Makesy

Club Member
Been trying to tweek my EZ-EFI.

A little vid of the dash from the handheld...


If the voltage is accurate, I don't think my alternator is working...

Also I'm running a bit rich!
IMG_20200317_170854.jpg
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Positive goes to the body of the bulb and negative to the end. The led bulb only works with positive to the end and negative to the body (the normal way). I swapped the lead on the switch but it just blew the fuse as soon as everything was connected and the switch was activated.
I think I read somewhere on here that some bits were switched earth as opposed to positive, maybe that's why?
All diodes are like that. I'm surprised nissan made it with +ve on the body, I'm pretty sure most bulbs on my car are the right way round. You might be better off swapping the wires around on the bulb holder. I can't see it making a difference to the switching.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
I did that but it shares the fuse with the rear lights so swapping the wires just blows the fuse. Easiest way is going to be running dedicated pos and neg to the switch on a separate inline fuse.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Positive goes to the body of the bulb and negative to the end. The led bulb only works with positive to the end and negative to the body (the normal way). I swapped the lead on the switch but it just blew the fuse as soon as everything was connected and the switch was activated.
I think I read somewhere on here that some bits were switched earth as opposed to positive, maybe that's why?

As I've mentioned before Zs are wired very strangely. Since you posted I've looked at my glovebox lamp and what a silly idea - if the rear of the lamp (insulated from the front half) was touched against the body it would blow a fuse. To make matters worse the wire is black but connects to a red/blue.

Thanks for posting - I will insulate my lamp with a rubber sleeve or rewire.

I replaced some of my instrument bulbs a couple of years ago and it was a PITA. I but a dab of superglue on the bulbholders to prevent them from becoming dislodged. I also bypassed the rheostat so they were as bright as poss. I may go LED now like you.

20200318_105350.jpg
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
Definitely weird Rob. Today I fitted leds to the three auxiliary dials. I was going to put one in the map reading alight but that's a different bulb, push in wedge type, so I'll have to find a led version for that. Speedo and Tacho next, how easy is it to change the bulbs in them? Not massively brighter but definitely better.
 
Last edited:

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
Definitely weird Rob. Today I fitted leds to the three auxiliary dials. I was going to put one in the map reading alight but that's a different bulb, push in wedge type, so I'll have to find a led version for that. Speedo and Tacho next, how easy is it to change the bulbs in them? Not massively brighter but definitely better.

The tacho and speedo are good for a midget wanting a 'workout'.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
The tacho and speedo are good for a midget wanting a 'workout'.
Hmm....I'm 6'2" and weigh about 15stone, and definitely don't go in for workouts!
Looks like I'll be lying on my back with my head in the footwell.
Haynes manual just says pull them out the back. Can't see it being that easy.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
I believe early ones you do have to pull out the back, but later ones have two screws holding them in at the front and they come out the front. Look for a screw in the plastics in front and above the gauge.
 

Bazzateer

Club Member
I was meaning the bulbs just pull out from the back but you're right, Haynes says on the 260 there's one screw at the top of the gauge on the cockpit side and another on the back side of the gauges under/behind the dash. I'll have a look tomorrow.
 
Top