Thank you for your in-depth reply’s, confusing but really helpful!.
I’m hoping you can help me a bit more. My car currently runs an L28 with a single carb & a turbo. From what I understand not the best combination .
I have been looking into changing this system to either fuel injection, keeping the Turbo or carbs & removing the fuel injection.
So far I haven’t really don’t know what to do. Price wise there doesn’t seem to be to much difference in buying the parts as I already have a new fuel injection head that came with the car.
Does anyone have any advice as to what they would do in my position?
Is your car the one with the suck-through Weber DCOE?
Anyway, what do you want to do or to achieve with it?
If your looking to retain the turbo but want a modern fuel injection I’d be looking at the Protunerz manifold set upThank you for your in-depth reply’s, confusing but really helpful!.
I’m hoping you can help me a bit more. My car currently runs an L28 with a single carb & a turbo. From what I understand not the best combination .
I have been looking into changing this system to either fuel injection, keeping the Turbo or carbs & removing the fuel injection.
So far I haven’t really don’t know what to do. Price wise there doesn’t seem to be to much difference in buying the parts as I already have a new fuel injection head that came with the car.
Does anyone have any advice as to what they would do in my position?
Yes that’s the one, I got it a couple of years ago of JulienI was thinking that - the silver 240 with nice gold SSR wheels?
Apologise for the wrong use of language, probably shows how Green I am at this , jump straight into the deep end comes to mind.
I suppose the main thing I want to get out of the car is reliability, at the moment it can be quite tricky to start especially if it’s cold it can take a few goes to get started.Once started I have to sit in the car keeping the revs up for a while until it’s warm enough to ideal.
It’s also for my standards quite quick & powerful, I’m not to fussed about top end speed but a car that accelerates reasonably quickly if always a bit of fun, which is why I’ve been leaning towards keeping the turbo.
It’s
I’ve also been told by a few people that it’s not the best setup and could do with being changed.
I’ve looked into the Jenvey ITB’s which look pretty good, but I’m not sure at that point is it more cost effective & would I get the same amount out of triple Carbs? Or do the ITB’s make a difference worth paying the extra money.
With the Fuel injection, the car came with what I think is a new intake manifold, I will attach a photo once I get home. As I have this I have been leaning towards using it as I could keep the turbo, but am I going to end up spend loads on this setup or over engineering the car for what I want to use it for?
I live the car to bits but It’s definitely got a few quirks.Ahh thought it was that car! Funny - that was one of the first Z's I saw for sale when I started looking at them, it's a great looking car. I think I even posted it on here asking for people's thoughts! If I remember rightly, people voiced concerns over the safety of the turbo+carb setup, so you might be best advised to make some kind of change there.
I think there's even an article online about your car, have you seen it? Am I right in thinking it has a button to squirt extra fuel into the carb or something before starting?
I'm afraid I'm not knowledgeable to advise on the carbs vs ITBs question though. But I think you'd get similar power, if not a touch more with ITBs. With both options though, the way the power is delivered would feel different to your current setup - might feel slower as you won't have that turbo whoosh! I think the general consensus with carbs is that they can be more finicky than FI / ITBs - e.g. bit more reluctant to start on cold mornings, and probably less fuel efficient.
With FI, as long as the wiring is all good and its been tuned well, your car should behave like a modern car in terms of starting and running.
Hopefully someone with deeper knowledge can add to this!
OER carbs, on a manifold, £1200.
OER Racing Carburetor Kit - 45mm Wire Type L-Series - RHDJapan
OER Racing Carburetor Kit - 45mm Wire Type L-Series. Buy direct with global shipping to your door from Osaka, Japan. We speak English and all email queries are responded to promptly!www.rhdjapan.com
Cool has never been so cheap.
Wow that is cheap. Are 45s ok for a stock L28? Would it just mean even worse fuel economy than a stock engine with 40s?
The question continues, I’ve had such a hard time with this one I though there would be quite a straight forward answer or line to help determine which to go for but everyone has a different answer & good reasoning behind them!.Ahh thought it was that car! Funny - that was one of the first Z's I saw for sale when I started looking at them, it's a great looking car. I think I even posted it on here asking for people's thoughts! If I remember rightly, people voiced concerns over the safety of the turbo+carb setup, so you might be best advised to make some kind of change there.
I think there's even an article online about your car, have you seen it? Am I right in thinking it has a button to squirt extra fuel into the carb or something before starting?
I'm afraid I'm not knowledgeable to advise on the carbs vs ITBs question though. But I think you'd get similar power, if not a touch more with ITBs. With both options though, the way the power is delivered would feel different to your current setup - might feel slower as you won't have that turbo whoosh! I think the general consensus with carbs is that they can be more finicky than FI / ITBs - e.g. bit more reluctant to start on cold mornings, and probably less fuel efficient.
With FI, as long as the wiring is all good and its been tuned well, your car should behave like a modern car in terms of starting and running.
Hopefully someone with deeper knowledge can add to this!
And you'll only need an o2 sensor if you're doing the tuning yourself. In which case you'd need a wideband sensor and controller.You'll need a maf or a map depending on the ECU. You'll also need an engine speed/position sensor - best would be a trigger wheel and sensor on the crank damper, but you can get away with a distributor based setup.
It seems like this is a pretty big & uncommon job to do? I would have thought quite a few people do it. Am I going way over my head with a project that’s going to take & cost a lot? Or is this a reasonably straight forward project?You'll need a maf or a map depending on the ECU. You'll also need an engine speed/position sensor - best would be a trigger wheel and sensor on the crank damper, but you can get away with a distributor based setup.