Clutch problems

Johny, this is the difference - is yours the small one?:eek:
 

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A longer pushrod Will fix this withought the hassle of taking out the gearbox. A very simple fix. I have done it. Duncan is onto it.
 
My carrier with bearing measures 47.5mm total length. I think it needs to be over 50mm.

I've looked at longer pushrod and tried putting washers under pivot point. Both will take up the slack and cause the carrier to opperate the clutch. This will cause the carrier to move further along the shaft (which is what we need it to do). The trouble with doing this on a short carrier is that it may get to a point where it is no longer support at 2 points as one end will run out of sleeve. I think this is why nissan use a longer carrier so that this cannot happen. If you look inside the carrier you will see a bearing surface at each end and a recess in the middle for grease. If the carrier travels too far along the sleeve then the front surface may come off the end. I've tried it and it looks pretty close to me, too close to take a chance.

This is just the way I see it and it may work with a longer pushrod but nissan seamed to think it required a longer carrier.
 
A longer push rod isnt a fix, its a lazy compromise that creates poor geometry between the clutch fork and the carrier and as a side it makes it very difficult to use the rubber gaitor as the fork is to far forward, been there, worn the tee shirt out.

Johhny, Matt said you were going to call me
 
I called last night Steve and left a message on your mobile answerphone with my number asking you to ring me back when you got a chance..........or did I leave it on somebody elses?
 
Thanks for the carrier Rob and all the advice from everyone. Got it all back together tonight and took it up and down the road. Works perfect. Change to a 280zx gearbox while I was at it and its very smooth.
 
Thought it was fixed but I still have an issue so I'm interested in hearing other peoples views on the situation. After fitting the longer carrier I found that it wasn't possible to bolt up the slave cylinder without levering the arm to operate the clutch a little. The pushrod appeared too short before, now it seams to be too long, but only by a few mm. I've driven the car around for the last couple of weeks and the clutch seams to work fine, but. Is the bearing going to fail due to being in contact with the clutch all the time? Do I nean to reduce the pushrod length a little? Am I the only one that seams to always have problems? Should I just go and buy a focus?
 
Don't buy a focus, Z is best, I seem to think someone said many years back that the fork is different between models also :eek: Good thread this, should save me taking my gearbox in & out once I get my arse into gear :D :lol:
 
Johnny, I haven't had that problem. I would shorten the pushrod a little - or better still try another piece of rod first and see what you need to do to make it work ok.

Are you taking the car to Le Mans next week? If so I wouldn't let the release bearing 'run' all the way it might get hot and fail. Also your clutch may slip.
 
I think shortening it 3mm will sort it out.

Yes I am taking it to Le Mans. I don't have any choice. My wife has made it very clear that I MUST take it and not the soarer after using this event as a reason for spending all our money on the car.

It actually runs and drives OK so I can't see any reason why not. Its noisy, rattly, fumey, lets in water, and feals a bit "loose" at the back but then it is nearly 40 years old. It should also be nearly run in by the time we get home so thats a bonus.
 
In any case, I won't let you anywhere near us in a Soarer - I like (sorry, of course I mean respect) your wife :cool: !
 
johnymd said:
Yes I am taking it to Le Mans.

It actually runs and drives OK so I can't see any reason why not. Its noisy, rattly, fumey, lets in water, and feals a bit "loose" at the back but then it is nearly 40 years old.
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Good man Johnny - you will remember the trip and the car will mean more to you afterwards.

Noisy, rattly - so is mine with it's perspex windows, fiberglass bonnet etc - all part of the experience.

Fumey - not good, I used to get exhaust fumes drawn around the tailgate aperature when I opened the side windows (sorted now). Keep the windows shut and put the fan on - try it.

Loose at the backend - something is not right, get Matt to drive it for his input. My backend is 100% 'planted'. What tyres are you using?

Anyway it will be great meeting up :cheers:
 
Fumey - not good, I used to get exhaust fumes drawn around the tailgate aperature when I opened the side windows (sorted now). Keep the windows shut and put the fan on - try it.
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It's fine untill I open the windows. Went all over the rear of the car yesterday sealing any holes. Its got a new tailgate seal. The lights are sealed in. All the holes in the tailgate are sealed. Still gets in from somewhere though. Checked the exhaust for leaks as well. I've been driving with the footwell vents open and fan on full blast.

Loose at the backend - something is not right, get Matt to drive it for his input. My backend is 100% 'planted'. What tyres are you using?
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Tyres are newish (1000 miles) (6 years) BFG Profilers and the suspention had all new bushes when I rebuilt it. Had a lok under it tonight and there seams to be a bit of play at the inner wishbone mounts. I'll have to have a look Saturday. The moustache bar mounts were not changed with the rest of the bushes and could do with being replaced. I seam to remember not being able to undo the bolts.
 
johnymd said:
It's fine untill I open the windows. Went all over the rear of the car yesterday sealing any holes. Its got a new tailgate seal. The lights are sealed in. All the holes in the tailgate are sealed. Still gets in from somewhere though. Checked the exhaust for leaks as well. I've been driving with the footwell vents open and fan on full blast.
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I have the same problem and again same as you, new seal on the tail gate, light clusters and even sealed in with dumdum. All holes filled that I can find but still gets in when I open the drivers window but ok with both windows open.

I have been told that a possible cause could be the trim panel on the tail gate not having its plastic membrain installed lets in fumes through the tailgate latch. I had a go the other day with some sticky backed plastic but didnt work. I also wonder if it has something to do with the length of the tail pipe?

Mike B
 
My fumes stopped when I fitted my fibreglass tailgate and a new seal (not Nissan but standard autojumble profile). My tailgate pulls down on each side with bonnet pins. Also the tailgate has no holes on the face (approx 3" wide) that sits behind the seal, I'm told fumes can get in there and into the tailgate.

A downturned exhaust pipe might help.
 
The clutch sagga continues.
I thought I'd reduce the lenth of the clutch slave cylinder push rod today as I wasn't happy with it pushing the arm before the clutch was pressed. I took a couplr of mm off, just so there was a tiny bit of play. Took it for a spin and it went into gear the first push of the clutch but wouldn't when I got to the bottom of the hill. Had a knightmare getting back home in the traffic. Wouldn't go in gear without the engine off, crept forward with the clutch down. Shit, I'm back were I started. When I got back home I managed to find another push rod so I've put it back on. Clutch is not good though. I'll have to have another look at it when I get back from La Manns.
 
John, I told you to try another rod first :smash:

Anyway I'm now thinking you have a hydraulic problem.

See you Friday :thumbs:
 
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