Car tilting lifts - CJ Autos

[Paul_S]

Thanks for the advice on jacking up the car, axle stands, etc.

I used to have some planks to drive up onto for the 370Z but I threw them out a while ago during a clear out. I have a couple those Laser ramps too. I think I need to get 2 more.

It's good advice about creep when jacking up and starting from a higher point helps. Also, thinking about it, I have 2 jacks and the smaller one has a shorter arm and that increases the creep. I'd not thought of it before but I will make sure I use the bigger jack in future, even though it's not as convenient moving it around the garage.

I've got the car up on 4 axle stands at the moment and all your advice really helped. It went up a lot more smoothly this time.

 

[Paul_S]

I use these to get the cars high enough for a trolley jack and the 2 poster.

I think I mentioned that I've a set of these. I've now invested in another 2. I found these which are identical to the Laser ones but cheaper --> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07KC6WF89/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00

 

[status]

I was looking at getting a lift in my garage so I cold park one z under the other,it meant going into the roof about 4 inches to make it work but have opted to change the single garage into a double which is in the paddock ,I would say though if you’ve got the height then get a proper lift like Jon has done cos you will still be on yer back working on yer car

 

[AliK]

Finally found the time to open the box 5 weeks after delivery (!!) so I thought I would do a write up. I also changed the subject heading in case someone in the future looks this up. I hope I haven't broken a forum rule - if I have, I'm sure we'll find out soon enough.

She arrived in a rather heavy box and pallet 2 days after purchase.

And here's what comes in the box.

One see-saw, one long handle, a purpose made box for a mains drill, a tonne of sections to extend the width and a plethora of other bits. But all fully built so no Messing about.

It's a very high quality finish and a solid / heavy bit of kit that is very well thought out. There are wheels at one end such that you can lift one end and drag rather than having to lift the whole thing. There are four other wheels that allow you to slide her under the car. And that is where the fun began!!

While she clears the sills, the chassis rails were in the way and lower than that is my very low slung exhaust (hoping to fix that soon with a better fitting Sean exhaust).

So out came my fence post ramps and some other small bits for the rear wheels - which next time around will be the same length as the front ones. You can see why in the photos.

I think my 260 is lowered so here is the height to the top of the wheel arch for those who know what it should be.

Out of the box, the width is adjustable to a max of 775mm which is spot on for the chassis rails. On that note, I went for the width adjustable version to future proof for whatever car I may be working on. But if you only plan to use on a Z then the non-adjustable version will be just fine and £100 cheaper.

I was very unsure / undecided about lifting on the chassis rails but I couldn't think of a better place for the widest possible load distribution. The sills seem awfully thin to do that with.

Being a giant scissor jack, the handle takes a fair bit of turning but I didn't fancy using my Makita with the 4Ah battery on the lowest setting for too long as it was straining it a little. But once the front wheels lifted off, the weight transferred to the rear and it was easy, so out came the drill again; especially as typing this, I can feel my shoulder muscles like I've been to the gym (but it's not hard to turn, just lots of turns)!

My courage ran out before the adjustment for height had maxed out. The pictures really don't show how scary it looks in the flesh or how high up the front of the car is.

Where I had positioned the lift was such that I could not seesaw the car unless I put my entire weight on it (which I didn't). But it shows you how far back the centre of weight distribution is on an S30.

I do think I need to invest in some taller - MUCH taller - axle stands. I did hook the two I have under the front wheels just in case she did decide to see-saw but I didn't feel unsafe at all and goading it, I couldn't get it to move with the stands where they were.

Sitting - yes sitting(!!) - under the car I was giggling like a child, excited by the possibilities afforded by my new toy! I was genuinely thinking there is absolutely nothing that I can't do now!!! And a very good discovery was that the way the lift is designed, it doesn't get in the way of things in the centre tunnel. OK you won't be doing a gearbox job with it, but for all other things like drive shafts, handbrake adjustment, transmission fluid / slave cyl / speedo drive / switch changes etc etc it's perfect!!!

This was just a test run so I didn't do anything except tighten a couple of sump nuts to fix an oil leak and reconnected my reverse light switch wires that I couldn't get to previously. I need those taller stands before I get properly busy under the car.

Coming back down was a piece of cake for the Makita, making it super quick. I wouldn't recommend using a non-geared mains drill as you will burn it out. The battery ones have huge ratios in their gearboxes.

Having a a garage that the PO built in the 70s for his mini, means I need to be all Ikea with space utilisation. So I built a "runway" that will eventually be bolted into the floor when I finish fine tuning it. In case you are wondering, the wooden planks sitting on top of each other are screwed together.

And with lift resting below the car.

In short this is one of the best tools I've ever bought. It's gonna make any job a doddle / a pleasure to do.

Next up, I need to experiment with different positions to get the rear off and seesaw with all four wheels off the ground.

An interesting fact I learned, depending on which bit of the literature you read the max load is either 1500 or 1600 Kg, however, if you have two wheels on the floor you can lift a car heavier than that - which means I can use it on the heavy ass Audis if needed.

Would I recommend this lift? Any day!!!!!! A great investment if like me you can't have a post lift but want to properly get under the car.

 

[Mr.G]

Nice to hear it went well.

I do think I need to invest in some taller - MUCH taller - axle stands.

I recently popped into Machine Mart and they have some nice really tall ones available.

 

[toopy]

Excellent write up buddy, nice one they always looked to be a great bit of kit, but it's good to have the nod first hand from someone actually laying.... sitting under the car!

 

[AliK]

Thanks chaps, just very very pleased with it.

Good shout Mr G. I will be sure to have a look and undoubtedly will walk out with even more tools . My 6 year old rolled his eyes at me the other week as I walked in with something and exclaimed "Not ANOTHER tool daddy"!?!?

Toopey, we need you back on the road for another chase around the countryside!

 

[jonbills]

Good write up Ali.
When you say you lifted on the chassis rails, that's not the floor supports is it?

 

[johnymd]

The best thing I ever bought was my 2 poster lift at the workshop. The problem is I could do with something at home so this may well be on my list. I like that it looks relatively small too so won't take up too much room in the garage. All of my cars are very low to the ground, although with Sean's exhausts the chassis rails sit lower than it, so I would certainly need to raise the cars as you have. With regard to width, can it be made wider so it lifts on the floors rather than the rails?

 

[toopy]

I was wondering about using the chassis rails/floor supports, i thought maybe it would be better to lift on the floor pan, but as close to the sills as possible?

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

Looking at it Ali, can you make it so it lifts off the cills? As jonbills says, looks to be on the floor supports? on my phone I thought you had it on the cills.

You could but some nice timber width ways and pick it up on the cills?

 

[AliK]

"It's been strengthened there!!!" As Don Muscles once said (and if that makes no sense to you, then you've missed one of the most entertaining threads in the Club's online history!!)

Joking apart fellas I too was VERY worried about lifting it there. I can defo see why you wouldn't point load the chassis rails with the small circle of a jack, but as I alluded to earlier, I am worried that the flimsy looking vertical metal of the cills would bend if lifted there. Typing this, I'm not entirely convinced by my own argument though.

The reason I very gingerly and nervously went this route was that it seemed that the forces are more widely / evenly distributed. Where I positioned the lifting surfaces, was where the chassis rails are pushing against the bulkhead and the cross members under the seats - the cill to trans tunnel support bits I can't recall the name of. The rails also go all the way back (unlike on a 240) to just before the storage bins where the "tub" goes vertical.

I'm not precious about it, so I would really welcome a healthy factual debate on where "this" device should be used on our cars. I want to use it a lot and would definitely not want to damage the car. Especially as the next time I want all four wheels off, so it will be taking more weight.

This isn't my car but looking at this photo stolen off tinter - which is very similar to my 260- where would you put the CJ Autos lift and explain your logic please wise ones!?

1. The cills - to me they appear weak and likely to bend, happy to be put in my place

But also a bit of wood under them would worry me that the car would "slip" when tilted.

2. The floors - worries me that they are not totally straight, have ridges that will cause "point loading" + they appear less strong.

3. The chassis rails - well, I feel we've done that one to death above

4. The radiator panel - that was in loving memory of Don and intended to raise a smile.

Yes you can get wide enough with the extension sections that come with the lift.

Johnny, I love your style, you have Zs and gadgets/tools for EVERY occasion ! To me you are the 007 of the Z world! (More of a Connery I feel!)

 

[jonbills]

Dunno, tricky innit.
What do your floor supports look like afterwards?

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

i 101% wouldnt use the floors

 

[yellowz]

The floor support rails in that picture look about twice as deep as mine are? Is that because the pic is of a later car? The fluid pipes also run inside the rail whereas mine run up in the gearbox tunnel. I'm guessing that a lift like this would not be good for me then.

 

[jonbills]

The floor support rails in that picture look about twice as deep as mine are? Is that because the pic is of a later car? The fluid pipes also run inside the rail whereas mine run up in the gearbox tunnel. I'm guessing that a lift like this would not be good for me then.

Yeah the pic is a (late?) 280z. Ali's car is a UK 260 so more like yours.

 

[AliK]

Dunno, tricky innit.
What do your floor supports look like afterwards?

They were absolutely fine Jon. I was very slow in raising it and watching for the smallest signs of flex - all seemed OK before, during and after.

Mine is a 1977 Z so I guess it's a late model with the fat supports.

So a question guys, when you go to garages for work on the car, do they use the cills?

I've only ever seen them raise it on a 4 poster then use bars in the middle with blocks at the suspension joint points.

In fact Johny, do you go on the cills with your four poster at the workshop?

 

[Alphabettispaghetti]

I think the fact you’re spreading the load point instead of spot loading, I’d be more inclined to say it’ll be ok. With the design it should be easy to make even longer runners if needed to go further each way?

 

[toopy]

The last time mine was up on a 2 post lift was at 4ways a few years back for new shocks + springs, the front arms were under the compression rod mounting points on the chassis rails and the rear arms were under the outer corners of the rear most area of the floor pan, where it starts to curve upwards.

To my knowledge, its never been jacked on the sills in my ownership, only as above or over a pit!

As Ali says, you can't really use any supporting wood with these lifts, for fear of the car simply sliding off!!

 

[toopy]

The floor support rails in that picture look about twice as deep as mine are? Is that because the pic is of a later car? The fluid pipes also run inside the rail whereas mine run up in the gearbox tunnel. I'm guessing that a lift like this would not be good for me then.

On the 240z/early 260z the floor support rails appear to be just that, and have hardly any depth, on the later 260z they are more substantial and longer and therefore appear to be more structural, the 280z even more so it seems.