Best way to refurb sump pan?

jonbills said:
Thats the problem with looking 😃
The more important thing is whether there's any scoring on the journals. What do they look like?
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Exactly 😂 Would've probably be fine for years right.. but now I've looked!

I've run my fingernail over them and I don't feel any scoring like the bearings have. But it's not like a mirror, if that's what it should feel like. Guessing it will need a polish or regrind eventually.
 
MCBladeRun said:
I'm now concerned about what mine will look like 👨‍🔧
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Sorry.. it's spreading! Well apparently I can just put new bearings on and it should be fine for a few more years.. as long as I don't find the crank is actually scored on the others... Sorry that probably hasn't helped has it 🤦🏻‍♂️
 
Admiring your tenacity with this @Robotsan ! When I got my first Z I had no idea about cars save for the odd oil change. Terrified of what could go wrong, removing the fuel tank took me 2 days at first, which would now only take me 30 mins or so!

You'll learn a lot from the experience and end up with a car you'll be incredibly proud of!
 
Makesy said:
Admiring your tenacity with this @Robotsan ! When I got my first Z I had no idea about cars save for the odd oil change. Terrified of what could go wrong, removing the fuel tank took me 2 days at first, which would now only take me 30 mins or so!

You'll learn a lot from the experience and end up with a car you'll be incredibly proud of!
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Thanks @Makesy. I've never dared go this far into a car before, and I am shitting myself tbh! But I have great guidance from @Larby, who lets just say knows what he's doing. He's talked me through removing the caps and checking the bearings. I wouldn't have gone near it without that help.

But yeah, learning a lot. Funny what the title of this thread is .. things have escalated somewhat 😂
 
Just re-installed the end cap, with new side seals. But the side seals protrude from the block further than I was expecting.. you're not meant to trim them are you?

The one on the left sticks out further than the one on the right too.

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Close up of left one:

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And right one:

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240L31 said:
Agreed.
You can pull out the old side seals with a pair of needle nose pliers (to get started, I used a screwdriver). Then use brake cleaner to clean the slot. Apply some RTV on the side seals, push them all the way in until they bottom out. I think you have to trim them so that they sit flush with the oil pan flange.

All in all it is an easy task, even with the engine still in the car.
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Just remembered you did say to trim them! So taking a Stanley blade to them now 👍🏻
 
240L31 said:
Don't even bother using the two piece design seal. Not worth the effort 😉

Nissan oe is still available at the dealership.
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Should I apply RTV to both sides of the side seals? E.g. the red, outer side as well as the inner?

Guessing no, as neither the FSM nor Haynes mention it. But it's just the fact it's got a little channel on both sides that makes me think it wants it on both.

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240L31 said:
I just smeared RTV all around (also to lubricate it). I never had a leak again.
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Ok. Well I've only done it on one side, although I did use plenty of RTV and I did do the corner channel where the cap meets the block too. We'll just have to see if it leaks again!
 
Forgot to say - big end bearings all went in without a hitch, but it was difficult work due to the studs from the rods being in the way. I was also terrified of scratching the crank journals with said studs, so I made little sleeves for them made of electric tape that I could easily remove and put on the next pair.

Used lots of assembly lube all over the crank and each bearing shell face. So fingers crossed it'll be ok.

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And have just given the sump a 4th and final coat (I think) of gloss epoxy:

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