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Batteries
- Thread starter Craig_260
- Start date
Farmer42
Club Member
Just bought a new battery from a local autoparts place for my 260Z. It was a Lucas LP069. It works fine is the right size and the terminals are in the right places i.e. the right way round. It cost me £87 with a 4 year guarantee. I have seen these cheaper online but I needed one fast and they had one.
grahamjc
Well-Known Forum User
Good to know
datsfun
Club Member
morbias
Well-Known Forum User
There is a small parts shop around the corner from me and I went in asking about batteries a couple of weeks ago. The shop owner has lots of old parts books, they state 069 as the correct code which, incidentally, is apparently the same type of battery that a lot of older British cars used.
Things have moved on (as might be expected) in battery technology. Its easy to become immersed in such modern stuff as 'Value Regulated Lead Acid' and 'Absorbed Glass Matt'. Its all quite irrelevant to old Z's. Just use a plain standard black cube of the right size with the rating mentioned in the Haynes Manual. Cheap and easy and perfectly ok.
Mr.F
Inactive
Agree that would be preferred, but authentic for RHD is the other way round - the leads, frame and (if still fitted) plastic cover and cap are oriented for this. The positive should be protected with a tailored rubber cap. Ensure that the battery is securely and correctly clamped in place - a bouncing battery will short out on the bodywork.
Not all 069 batteries are the correct height any more. Check this dimension as the correct battery clamp has no real adjustment to compensate for a short battery.
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Huw
Club Member
I know there are loads of battery suppliers, I've used Bristol Batteries (ok so I live in Bristol - but they do online ordering and delivery). If they can match me a battery for a 1936 Humber and a 1932 Morris Minor, I recon they should have no trouble with a 70's Z.
Just thought I would throw this in to the discussion.
Cheers
Huw
Just thought I would throw this in to the discussion.
Cheers
Huw
Dale
Club Member
Is that right? You learn something new every day
I am forever catching the body with the spanner when removing the negative, I wouldn't want to do that with the positive! I guess that a lot of cars are a little away from 'factory' when it comes to the battery? I have the plastic cover somewhere and although the battery is reasonably secure I'm not sure I would trust it under heavy cornering. An aftermarket clamping solution is now on the jobs list so any battery width will fit.
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toopy
Club Member
Mine is fitted 'the right way' and i do have a rubber cover over the Pos terminal
Its not like they have to be lifted out all the time, so
If the thing needs to be disconnected, i undo the Neg, release the clamp and slide it out for better access to the Pos
I had to fit a different clamp as the battery i went for was just about the right height, but i use a battery acid 'neutraliser' mat
under the battery, which adds approx 4mm in height
I also have a battery charger/conditioner wired in, so no need to mess about with Croc clips etc.
https://advancedbatterysupplies.co.uk/carbatteryvartabluee24
and i do have a rubber cover over the Pos terminalIts not like they have to be lifted out all the time, so
If the thing needs to be disconnected, i undo the Neg, release the clamp and slide it out for better access to the Pos
I had to fit a different clamp as the battery i went for was just about the right height, but i use a battery acid 'neutraliser' mat
under the battery, which adds approx 4mm in height
I also have a battery charger/conditioner wired in, so no need to mess about with Croc clips etc.
https://advancedbatterysupplies.co.uk/carbatteryvartabluee24
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toopy
Club Member
Haha, I just found this while looking for pictures of battery configurations...
Wouldnt fancy a heavy front end shunt in that!
Where's the vacuum assistance for the brakes coming from
So, my inner Bruce Willis subsided and the inner geek got thinking;
That array of batteries is 96v.
A typical 96v automotive motor can take a constant peak of 420Amps (post controller) for 2 minutes and typical recommended max revs of 5000RPM.
Convert that lot and you have 40ish KW of power, which equates to a mere 53 BHP and 57 lbft of torque.
Not sure that would worry the drag racers here, but at any rate, give me a L series instead any day!!
Useless facts rant over!
Ali K
That array of batteries is 96v.
A typical 96v automotive motor can take a constant peak of 420Amps (post controller) for 2 minutes and typical recommended max revs of 5000RPM.
Convert that lot and you have 40ish KW of power, which equates to a mere 53 BHP and 57 lbft of torque.
Not sure that would worry the drag racers here, but at any rate, give me a L series instead any day!!
Useless facts rant over!
Ali K
Dale
Club Member
Oh, there's more....in the boot...
The guy claims an equivalent to 156bhp but huge torque.
https://ampeater.wordpress.com
[youtube]g5_Ft8q3QmM[/youtube]
The guy claims an equivalent to 156bhp but huge torque.
https://ampeater.wordpress.com
[youtube]g5_Ft8q3QmM[/youtube]
Much more like it!!! reading his blog, he's got a heck of a lot more Volts and Amps than I estimated from the first pic. So I'd be inclined to believe the power claims.
It'd be interesting to see what transmission he's using (it looks like the motor goes into a bell housing) especially as electric motors can deliver max torque at zero revs.
Ali K
It'd be interesting to see what transmission he's using (it looks like the motor goes into a bell housing) especially as electric motors can deliver max torque at zero revs.
Ali K