260z Restoration - Let's get started

[Turn & Burn]

Just had a satisfying afternoon in the garage machining up a trigger wheel for the crank. I’ve gone with a kameari damper and surprisingly you can’t get an off the shelf trigger wheel. I thought being stainless it would be a bitch to machine but in the end pretty easy, sometimes stainless can work harden as u cut it and kills your tooling.

 

[jonbills]

I put my trigger wheel behind the damper - lots of room back there.

what fan arrangement do you have? I found the damper just fouled the stock viscous fan so I had to cut 2mm of the back of the fan blades.

 

[Turn & Burn]

I put my trigger wheel behind the damper - lots of room back there.

what fan arrangement do you have? I found the damper just fouled the stock viscous fan so I had to cut 2mm of the back of the fan blades.

That’s a really great idea, I didn’t think to get the damper off the hub. It may still be movable, but I’ll have opened the centerbore a bit much on the trigger wheel. I should have asked on here before I cracked on.
I’ll be using an electric fan so should be ok for room

 

[jonbills]

I didn't take anything apart on the damper, just welded the trigger wheel on the back of it.
I say "I", but of course it wasn't me that did it. it was someone with a lathe and can weld straight

 

[tyroguru]

Great work Andy! I too have a Kameari damper (this was in my plan before I decided to take it to bare metal...). I got a trigger wheel from http://trigger-wheels.com which obviously needs machining to fit and I was going to copy Jon and have it welded to the back of the damper. I took it to a machine shop to ask about it and he favored unbolting the damper and fixing it to the front as you have done here. Possibly stupid question: are the bolts there for fixing a plate to or are they fixing other pieces in the damper together? At the time I wasn't sure if the bolts could just be removed.

 

[Turn & Burn]

Thanks Jon, i had the same thoughts as you about fixings, whether to weld etc. In the end I tried the bolts which took a big wrench to remove. Release torque was about 90nm so they’re 12.9 grade bolts. These can be replaced with cap heads m10x1.25p x 40mm to account for the thicker plate. The bolts hold the fluid ring onto the steel hub, but it also seems to be a press fit. I’m reluctant to try too hard to split it tho.

 

[johnymd]

When I did my first trigger wheel I machined the standard damper and trigger wheel to fit together on the front of the damper and used 3 cap heads to fix it. I found the pickup stuck out a bit too far and had a bit of vibration which messed up the waveform a little. So this time I've fitted it the the back of the damper so the pickup is much closer to the engine and hoping for less vibration.

 

[Turn & Burn]

When I did my first trigger wheel I machined the standard damper and trigger wheel to fit together on the front of the damper and used 3 cap heads to fix it. I found the pickup stuck out a bit too far and had a bit of vibration which messed up the waveform a little. So this time I've fitted it the the back of the damper so the pickup is much closer to the engine and hoping for less vibration.

It’s one of my concerns that it’s a bit far forward, but it’s the suggested fixing for the ATI dampers I’ve copied. It shouldn’t pick up vibration if it’s in balance tho? I maybe need to add a balance hole opposite the removed tooth.

 

[Bazzateer]

It’s one of my concerns that it’s a bit far forward, but it’s the suggested fixing for the ATI dampers I’ve copied. It shouldn’t pick up vibration if it’s in balance tho? I maybe need to add a balance hole opposite the removed tooth.

If I'm reading him correctly I think John means the sensor/pickup had some vibration, not the wheel?

 

[Turn & Burn]

If I'm reading him correctly I think John means the sensor/pickup had some vibration, not the wheel?

Yeah, well pointed out. I’ll have to come up with a good solid mount. More excuses to use the mill

 

[Turn & Burn]

Summer has kind of got in the way and slowed me down a lot. I’ve just put the finishing touches to the motor this evening, flywheel and clutch fitted, crank position sensor completed. Maybe engine in tomorrow as it’s due to rain all day!

 

[Paul Henley]

Engine looks fabulous mate, would loved to have come down and help you sling it in

 

[moggy240]

I would have thought the crank position sensor would be better mounted the other side away from the alternator.

 

[Turn & Burn]

I would have thought the crank position sensor would be better mounted the other side away from the alternator. View attachment 39822

I’m not the 1st person to place it here, but I’ll ask around. Would have gone with a similar location to yours but I’m running a larger damper pulley and it starts to look like a bit of an ugly fabrication


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[moggy240]

Mine was picking up electrical interference from my electric water pump, away from electrical source if possible is a good idea.
I did get it sorted in the end and had some resistors fitted online as the electric water pjmp was messing up the crank position sensor signal.

 

[Turn & Burn]

Mine was picking up electrical interference from my electric water pump away from electrical source if possible is a good idea.
I did get it sorted in the end and had some resistors fitted online as the electric water pjmp was messing up the crank position sensor signal.

I’ve taken ur advice, it’s an easy enough job with the engine out, so why risk issues later on. Thanks...

 

[Turn & Burn]

Installed the motor on Sunday evening, straightforward stuff apart from oil pouring out of the gearbox flange. I had the great idea of filling the box beforehand cos i thought access maybe tricky later on. Turns out it was a rubbish idea, I sealed the output shaft but never considered it would come out the gearlever flange instead. As it is it’s dead easy to get at the fill plug so I needn’t have bothered.
Newly manufactured gearbox cradle lines up well enough give or take a few mm so happy days.

 

[Bazzateer]

I had the great idea of filling the box beforehand cos i thought access maybe tricky later on.

I made that same mistake 25 years ago when I was putting my old Frogeye back together, what a mess!

 

[Turn & Burn]

My exhaust is running very close to the footwell corner where it passes into the tunnel, almost a rub, and I’m considering shaving the manifold flange on a very slight angle, even a 0.5mm angled cut on the face will give me 10mm increase at the tight spot. Other options are a bit of persuasion on the pipes but this often ends badly with stainless and it cracks later.

 

[jonbills]

My exhaust is running very close to the footwell corner where it passes into the tunnel, almost a rub, and I’m considering shaving the manifold flange on a very slight angle, even a 0.5mm angled cut on the face will give me 10mm increase at the tight spot. Other options are a bit of persuasion on the pipes but this often ends badly with stainless and it cracks later.

thats a good idea. mine proper hit the passenger footwell and ended up bashing the footwell, which I regret now.