260z Restoration - Let's get started

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
My exhaust is running very close to the footwell corner where it passes into the tunnel, almost a rub, and I’m considering shaving the manifold flange on a very slight angle, even a 0.5mm angled cut on the face will give me 10mm increase at the tight spot. Other options are a bit of persuasion on the pipes but this often ends badly with stainless and it cracks later.

The motorsport lads alter the footwell.

If you angle the flange what effect will that have on the rest of the system?
 

richiep

Club Member
Those exhausts need designing not to interfere with the footwell IMO. This has been a long running issue.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
The motorsport lads alter the footwell.

If you angle the flange what effect will that have on the rest of the system?
Don’t know yet! I’ll have a go at a dummy build. Doesn’t seem to be short of space in there. I’ve seen someone else’s car where they recut and welded the exhaust to move it slightly.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
B63CF692-3E53-4969-B842-4394EFD60A76.jpeg
when you shave your flange will you put pictures up?
Franky, just for you, here’s a picture of the end result after a close trim of my flange.

Not terribly exciting but it’s increased the clearance to 10mm past the footwell. The added advantage is its reduced the flange thickness to about 16mm local to the studs which share the thick washers across exhaust and inlet manifold. The Harada manifold is also 16mm thick.
 
View attachment 40616
Franky, just for you, here’s a picture of the end result after a close trim of my flange.

Not terribly exciting but it’s increased the clearance to 10mm past the footwell. The added advantage is its reduced the flange thickness to about 16mm local to the studs which share the thick washers across exhaust and inlet manifold. The Harada manifold is also 16mm thick.

Such a simple fix. What manifold is it?might be worth feeding back to the supplier?
 

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
That's an impressive tooling fixture! Did you temporarily weld the manifold to the fixture for the machining, and then grind the welds off? Looks like it works a treat.

What brand of exhaust manifold is this? I was conversing with someone over the last couple of days who was complaining about the Harada inlet manifold. He reckoned it was interfering with his exhaust manifold flange, but I've never had a problem with umpteen Haradas and my money is on his exhaust manifold flange trespassing on inlet manifold territory.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
That's an impressive tooling fixture! Did you temporarily weld the manifold to the fixture for the machining, and then grind the welds off? Looks like it works a treat.

What brand of exhaust manifold is this? I was conversing with someone over the last couple of days who was complaining about the Harada inlet manifold. He reckoned it was interfering with his exhaust manifold flange, but I've never had a problem with umpteen Haradas and my money is on his exhaust manifold flange trespassing on inlet manifold territory.

I couldn’t find a decent way to hold the manifold on clamps on the mill and set it up so made the frame, made the setup much easier. I couldn’t do the milling on my mill, it’s just a bit too ‘hobby’ sized. So got a mate with a Bridgeport to do it. Needs coolant and a good cut rate when ur on stainless. The exhaust is one of Sean’s, it always been just a bit tight, but that could just be my car. I’ve attached a pic of the Harada fitted, no clearance issues with the manifold, but getting the linkages to operate Jenvey’s is a challenge, more on that once is fully sorted in a later post.FC7AA220-A6F1-4085-81C1-F5BF396E82CE.jpeg
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
View attachment 40616
Franky, just for you, here’s a picture of the end result after a close trim of my flange.

Not terribly exciting but it’s increased the clearance to 10mm past the footwell. The added advantage is its reduced the flange thickness to about 16mm local to the studs which share the thick washers across exhaust and inlet manifold. The Harada manifold is also 16mm thick.
Edit: just rechecked the flange thicknesses. The Harada is 14.8mm, the exhaust flange now it’s machined is 14.45mm so may need a touch of work on the Harada to get things perfect
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
I’ve finished the exhaust install which took a whole day due to missing the brackets to mount the exhaust from local to the diff. Seems to be a bit of a universal problem so in the end I made up a bracket that picks up off the diff strap anchors.

On the induction side I’ve been battling with connection of the Harada manifold onto Jenvey’s, as far as I can make out the Harada linkage is designed to actuate onto the opposite side (LH side) of the carb to a Weber / Jenvey (RH side linkage) so I’ve had to get hold of Left hand lever arms and springs for the Jenveys. To make things more confusing the Harada linkage seems to operate/rotate in the opposite direction and would drive the butterflies closed rather than open. I’ve tried every which way to get them to actuate but in the end have reversed then rotation of the main shaft on the manifold and modified all the lever arms to allow them to connect to the front of Jenveys.
55108011-B850-4F9A-92F3-C9EC70C962F2.jpeg B9EE3A90-F3C7-4702-B430-FD064501CDE3.jpeg
 

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
On the induction side I’ve been battling with connection of the Harada manifold onto Jenvey’s, as far as I can make out the Harada linkage is designed to actuate onto the opposite side (LH side) of the carb to a Weber / Jenvey (RH side linkage) so I’ve had to get hold of Left hand lever arms and springs for the Jenveys. To make things more confusing the Harada linkage seems to operate/rotate in the opposite direction and would drive the butterflies closed rather than open. I’ve tried every which way to get them to actuate but in the end have reversed then rotation of the main shaft on the manifold and modified all the lever arms to allow them to connect to the front of Jenveys.

In my experience, it is conventional for most side-draught carb spindles to rotate clockwise when viewed end-on from the left hand side (ie, front of the engine on the L-gata), including Webers and Mikuni-Solex, and the Harada manifolds & linkages are built with that in mind.

Do the Jenvey spindles rotate anti-clockwise?
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
In my experience, it is conventional for most side-draught carb spindles to rotate clockwise when viewed end-on from the left hand side (ie, front of the engine on the L-gata), including Webers and Mikuni-Solex, and the Harada manifolds & linkages are built with that in mind.

Do the Jenvey spindles rotate anti-clockwise?
Looks like they do rotate clockwise, but the linkage is pulling rather than pushing because of the cable actuation thingy.

My Dellortos had the linkage on the left of the carb but on my Fajs I've had to put the linkage on the right because the TPS goes on the left.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
In my experience, it is conventional for most side-draught carb spindles to rotate clockwise when viewed end-on from the left hand side (ie, front of the engine on the L-gata), including Webers and Mikuni-Solex, and the Harada manifolds & linkages are built with that in mind.

Do the Jenvey spindles rotate anti-clockwise?
No they rotate clockwise as well, but I just couldn’t get the linkages to work together, lever lengths / angles etc. With a free reign on the design of the arms that mount to the Jenvey I would have got there but the arm in the pic is all they have avail for the LH and the conventional Harada linkage would not work with it. If I used the correct lever connection hole (RH side in pic) the cable pull to throttle travel ratio was all wrong and I couldn’t open the butterflies fully, the linkage arms ended up at odd angles.
 

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Turn & Burn

Club Member
Looks like they do rotate clockwise, but the linkage is pulling rather than pushing because of the cable actuation thingy.

My Dellortos had the linkage on the left of the carb but on my Fajs I've had to put the linkage on the right because the TPS goes on the left.
I’ve put the TPS on the right, by the bulkhead, it’s got a straight through mount for the throttle spindle so will mount at either end ok.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
In my experience, it is conventional for most side-draught carb spindles to rotate clockwise when viewed end-on from the left hand side (ie, front of the engine on the L-gata), including Webers and Mikuni-Solex, and the Harada manifolds & linkages are built with that in mind.

Do the Jenvey spindles rotate anti-clockwise?
Alan, think I’ve figured out where the difference lies. On the Jenvey the throttle spindle is about 30mm further back from the front flange than a weber. Compare my images with the weber image posted here. This is what prevents the linkage working effectively.
 

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jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Thinking back, I think I had the same problem when I converted to ITBs. I made a new linkage bar with arms about 30% longer.
 
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