240Z resurrection | Page 6 | The Z Club of Great Britain
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240Z resurrection

Discussion in 'Rebuilds and restorations' started by tyroguru, Jun 15, 2019.

  1. franky

    franky Well-Known Forum User

    Kameari say the early p30 blocks take 3mm over with ease. Not totally clued up on all the block changes though.
     
    tyroguru likes this.
  2. tyroguru

    tyroguru
    Z Club Member

    Really interesting link thanks - I hadn't seen that.

    Re: crank - I assume you're referring to an LD28 crank for a stroker build? If parts were plentiful then I'd probably like to get my hands on one and do that. To be honest, I haven't had a good look for an LD28 crank but maybe I should start keeping my eye out and searching properly. Are there any other options from a crank perspective?

    The approach that Richie posted about in the above link, offset grinding the crank, longer rods and shorter pistons seems interesting as well. Do you know of any members who have done that?
     
  3. jonbills

    jonbills
    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Moderator

    Well there are (at least) three cranks to consider, the L24 73.7mm crank, the L26/28 79mm crank and the 83mm LD one. Then I know Kameari and perhaps others make an 85mm one.
    I'd think your first option would be to get an L28 crank?
     
    tyroguru likes this.
  4. tyroguru

    tyroguru
    Z Club Member

    Wow, if I'm looking at the correct Kameari crank then that's a spectacular price! ~3700 GBP (525k JPY) (https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-l31-full-counter-crankshaft.html) .

    An L28 crank with a 3mm overbore would give a displacement of 2753cc which would be great if possible. There's a couple on eBay in the US - maybe I could bring one back in my luggage next time I'm out EXTRA:D . Maybe I'll ask on the forum on the wild off-chance that someone needs to get rid of one...
     
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  5. Turn & Burn

    Turn & Burn
    Z Club Member

    I have a spare l28 crank, but I’ll need it as insurance for another couple of months in case my build goes pear shaped. Drop me a PM if interested. I also have all the info on offset grinding and Toyota rods if needed.
     
    tyroguru likes this.
  6. jonbills

    jonbills
    ZClub Administrator
    Staff Member Moderator

    That's their 83 mm crank, Same throw as Ld28 but properly counterbalanced. They used to list an 85mm one (not counterbalanced) but I can't find it now.
     
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  7. tyroguru

    tyroguru
    Z Club Member

    After the Christmas break flurry of activity I got struck down by a severe case of indecision about what to do next and, coupled with a lot of travel, it meant I didn't really touch the car from then until a few weeks ago. I've doing mountains of reading and thinking about this though and I have come to the conclusion that I'll only be happy if I strip the car down completely and start from bare metal up. I'm in no rush at all so this approach suits me just fine and allows me to gather parts and be indecisive without causing myself anxiety!

    A couple of weekends ago the gearbox, prop shaft, diff and rear suspension came out. Finding space to store all this stuff is a complete mare and I've had to get extremely creative with loft space and garage storage. In fact I've spent way longer on sorting and re-sorting storage space than I have on the car itself!

    I was going to start on removing underseal and I'd equipped myself with an MBX metal blaster, U-POL #8 primer, P180 sandpaper and all my PPE. However, I reconsidered and thought best to delay until my rotisserie arrives (not sure when that will be given the current lockdown). Instead of that I spent all weekend removing the sound deadening from the inside of the car. I know some people hate this job but I had such a great weekend doing it - so cathartic! I spend a huge amount of time behind a keyboard so fantastic to do a job where I could just chip away (literally!) at it. I understand some people use dry ice to do this but I hadn't thought that far ahead so just went at it with a hammer and a window beading knife I have that was built for this.

    It needs a bit more cleanup obviously but I managed to get the lions share done. So far the metal being uncovered looks pretty good to my untrained eye apart from a couple of small holes I found in the floor pan. I guess more will be revealed when I take the underseal off in that area. Apologies for the fisheye effect on these photo's - using a gopro and it's obviously got some wide angle setting on... GOPR0454.JPG GOPR0456.JPG GOPR0455.JPG GOPR0457.JPG

    The last photo is a pretty close up shot where you can see the two holes in the floor pan.
     
  8. Tony Mc

    Tony Mc Active Forum User

    Got a couple of spots on mine that might need looking at :(
    20200217_190212_001.jpg
     
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  9. tyroguru

    tyroguru
    Z Club Member

    Ouch! What's the rust like on the rest of the car Tony? Have you made any firm plans yet for dealing with it?
     
  10. Tony Mc

    Tony Mc Active Forum User

    Both floors in front of the cross support are Flintstone style. I have the replacement floor pans and they are going in next week.
    I believe the car was stood for a while possibly with wet floors as there is hardly any other problem rust to be found (so far)
    The drivers side dog leg is starting to go so that will be replaced also.
     
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  11. Rob Gaskin

    Rob Gaskin Treasurer Staff Member Moderator

    :EXTRAlol:
     
  12. tyroguru

    tyroguru
    Z Club Member

    Taking a few days off work to get a crack on with things. Took the drivers side air intake off and look what came out! We'd have been doing well to get any air through that lot!

    GOPR0500.JPG
     
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  13. Rushingphil

    Rushingphil
    Z Club Member

    Wow, the mice (?) did well to get that lot in there! Mine sufficed with plastic.
     

    Attached Files:

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  14. Tony Mc

    Tony Mc Active Forum User

    So that's what those big holes in the floor pan are for :conf2:
     
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  15. MaximG

    MaximG
    Z Club Member

    Drainage just in case you leave the roof open.
     
  16. tyroguru

    tyroguru
    Z Club Member

    It's been a few days of deconstruction and I've managed to completely strip the inside of the car and some of the exterior (i.e., wings, windscreen, hatch). I managed to get the wiring loom removed without cutting any of it out although I'm not completely sure why I wanted to do that - seemed a good idea at the time :) . I guess I figured it may come in handy in some way for reference when constructing a new one at a later date. However, the engine section had seen better days and the mice had filled their boots with the rear end section. The section in the dash was lovely though!

    For the weight weenies out there it the total harness together with most of the relays weighs 7.58kgs. Here's the view from front to back :) .

    GOPR0532.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2020
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  17. toopy

    toopy
    Z Club Member

    Laughable really that that constitutes a whole car wiring loom! by modern standards that would probably just cover the heated seats :D
     
  18. Rob Gaskin

    Rob Gaskin Treasurer Staff Member Moderator

    What's the black thing on the RHS of the picture? Edit: looked back over your pics it's some kind of control box.
     
  19. tyroguru

    tyroguru
    Z Club Member

    Well spotted Rob. Yeah, it's the A/C control unit. I wonder if that was a factory option or if it was an after market addition (?) . The A/C unit itself which was on the passenger side was a ridiculously large unit and coupled with the blower unit appeared to cut a lot of room out of the passenger leg area (it got removed very early on so I can't remember exactly how much).

    I know but the thought of making a loom for that is bad enough :) . I recently read that the wiring loom for a modern mid-size car weighs around 40kg and is made up of about 1.5km of cable!
     
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  20. Rob Gaskin

    Rob Gaskin Treasurer Staff Member Moderator

    Yeh, modern cars are incredibly reliant on electrics - if your alternator packs up you can't get very far.

    The Workshop manual CD for my 370Z was 50% electrical.

    On the old cars (60s) you only really need power to the coil.

    These Datsun looms can be simplified.
     
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