240z L24 engine options

kris broughton

Club Member
I'm looking at options for my 240z, it has a p90 block and e88 head the car is a 1971 240z but the engine isn't original numbers, I want to build a nice high revving road engine.
I have a set of triple webbers (40) and 280 electronic ignition. But everything else is stock before I buy anything I want to gain some knowledge of these engines as I've built a few race spec rb26 engines.
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
Kris,

You are asking a question with a potentially very wide range of answers!!! But you knew that already! ;)

The correct answer is: it depends! How much do you want to spend? Where do you want the power / torque to be for your driving style? What is your definition of revvy?

As a starting point to a vague answer, here are some thoughts:

This is a good read if not seen already ...


https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/4286-overview-of-l6-engine-heads/

Some have bored out from stock 83mm to 86mm to achieve 2.8L without issues (Rob Gaskin used to race one I believe), others believe it may leave the linings too narrow and consider 2.7 to be safest limit - can’t recall what mm.

Some have used a 260/280 crank to get more stroke / torque and displacement.

Most modified engines aim for static compression in the region of 10 - 11, but that depends on the cam and fuel you plan to use. Flat top pistons, a shaved head and the right head gasket get you there. There are lots of online calculators for this.

Some use lighter forged pistons and rods that weigh half as much as the stock items. Datsun Spirit do some nice ones, but there are many others like JE etc ...

https://datsunspirit.com/shop/dsi-l28-forged-pistons-for-use-with-l28-size-rods/

Depending on which E88 head is on there, you may wish to go bigger valves. How about lighter valves?

For high revving, a couple of wise men I know recommend Schneider springs and caps. (Don’t ask me specifics on which ones).

Stock cams run out of puff between 5-5.6k rpm. Some run cams with over 300 duration. 275 to 280 appears to be a good compromise from the stock. See here for stock cam variations ...

http://xenonzcar.com/s30/cams.html

Mine on a 270 degree cam with .48 lift, 10.5:1 compression and stock L28 pistons (F54 block) revs very happily to over 6.5k rpm (although I don’t often go over that). With forged pistons / rods and fully balanced bottom end you can go further but the engine is an ecosystem and other things have to match / be in tune with it (e.g. cam, compression, exhaust type etc). If you want an 8k rpm motor then rethink your distributor and consider a crank wheel triggered timing setup! Get a kameari chain sprocket and tensioner.

With a revvy NA engine be prepared to sacrifice the bottom end. But you know that yourself.

Some use a turbo to get the best of all worlds - although I don’t know if that is possible with DCOEs.

Some have used Jenvey throttle bodies and get superb fulling / tuning as well as that glorious induction sound.

https://www.jenvey.co.uk/support/faqs/heritage-throttle-bodies/

Outside the engine:

Get a Kameari fluid damper with the larger pulley - your high revving crank will thank you for it!

I run a fidanza aluminium flywheel which makes the car lovely and rev happy but no drivability issues. Sure, there is a difference at crawling speeds but not so much that makes the car a pain in traffic.

Don’t go too big on exhaust manifolds and back pipes.

What you are trying to do has been done many times and in many flavours - do a lot of googling here and on “hybridz” as well as reading this book (considered to be Holy scripture) ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-ebook/dp/B0092WMDCK/ref=nodl_

Good luck and watch the £££s!! They tend to run away fast when you go down this rabbit hole! ;)
 
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SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
Surely you mean a P30 block ?

This L24 was revvy and on twin SUs.
 

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kris broughton

Club Member
Kris,

You are asking a question with a potentially very wide range of answers!!! But you knew that already! ;)

The correct answer is: it depends! How much do you want to spend? Where do you want the power / torque to be for your driving style? What is your definition of revvy?

As a starting point to a vague answer, here are some thoughts:

This is a good read if not seen already ...


https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/4286-overview-of-l6-engine-heads/

Some have bored out from stock 83mm to 86mm to achieve 2.8L without issues (Rob Gaskin used to race one I believe), others believe it may leave the linings too narrow and consider 2.7 to be safest limit - can’t recall what mm.

Some have used a 260/280 crank to get more stroke / torque and displacement.

Most modified engines aim for static compression in the region of 10 - 11, but that depends on the cam and fuel you plan to use. Flat top pistons, a shaved head and the right head gasket get you there. There are lots of online calculators for this.

Some use lighter forged pistons and rods that weigh half as much as the stock items. Datsun Spirit do some nice ones, but there are many others like JE etc ...

https://datsunspirit.com/shop/dsi-l28-forged-pistons-for-use-with-l28-size-rods/

Depending on which E88 head is on there, you may wish to go bigger valves. How about lighter valves?

For high revving, a couple of wise men I know recommend Schneider springs and caps. (Don’t ask me specifics on which ones).

Stock cams run out of puff between 5-5.6k rpm. Some run cams with over 300 duration. 275 to 280 appears to be a good compromise from the stock. See here for stock cam variations ...

http://xenonzcar.com/s30/cams.html

Mine on a 270 degree cam with .48 lift, 10.5:1 compression and stock L28 pistons (F54 block) revs very happily to over 6.5k rpm (although I don’t often go over that). With forged pistons / rods and fully balanced bottom end you can go further but the engine is an ecosystem and other things have to match / be in tune with it (e.g. cam, compression, exhaust type etc). If you want an 8k rpm motor then rethink your distributor and consider a crank wheel triggered timing setup! Get a kameari chain sprocket and tensioner.

With a revvy NA engine be prepared to sacrifice the bottom end. But you know that yourself.

Some use a turbo to get the best of all worlds - although I don’t know if that is possible with DCOEs.

Some have used Jenvey throttle bodies and get superb fulling / tuning as well as that glorious induction sound.

https://www.jenvey.co.uk/support/faqs/heritage-throttle-bodies/

Outside the engine:

Get a Kameari fluid damper with the larger pulley - your high revving crank will thank you for it!

I run a fidanza aluminium flywheel which makes the car lovely and rev happy but no drivability issues. Sure, there is a difference at crawling speeds but not so much that makes the car a pain in traffic.

Don’t go too big on exhaust manifolds and back pipes.

What you are trying to do has been done many times and in many flavours - do a lot of googling here and on “hybridz” as well as reading this book (considered to be Holy scripture) ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-ebook/dp/B0092WMDCK/ref=nodl_

Good luck and watch the £££s!! They tend to run away fast when you go down this rabbit hole! ;)

Thankyou for you reply it has helped me out,

I am planning on building a engine for the road to enjoy,

I would say a max of 6.5k or 7k if the l24 crank is safe at this rev range I will be getting the whole rotating assembly balanced and also balancing the rods to match and end to end. I will end up getting aftermarket rods and pistons and look at increasing the displacement to around 2.6/2.7L while keeping it safe with bore thickness.

Head wise I would aim for a 10.5 compression ratio so I don't have to worry too much about running super unleaded all the time if people have done 11.0 running 98oct and haven't had to remove timing that route I would explore as I would like a 8K engine but I think it would be a bit much to do to a l24 in my first 240 I think I'll tone it down a bit as I do tend to get carried away easily.

I'll try and research what is needed to get a 10.5 Cr and cam setup with bigger valves and steel seats if this head needs them as I've read that it can be a issue in e88 heads,
Porting wise I would be cleaning up the head and flowing it a bit better than standard nothing extreme but port matching is a must for me as well.
 

SeanDezart

Well-Known Forum User
Are L24 engines rare these days ? Worth using an L26 if planning to enlarge or you want L24 on the engine plate ?

Regularly above 7k revs, fit a very good quality fluid damper (BHJ ?).
Regularly above that - consider a steel billet crank.

In either case, think timing/distribution upgrades.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
an L24 with a balanced rotating assembly and good pistons and rods is safe for lots more than 7k. 8k or 9k if you're keen.
I regularly take my L28 to 8500 and of course L24 is shorter stroke so lower piston speeds.
 

kris broughton

Club Member
an L24 with a balanced rotating assembly and good pistons and rods is safe for lots more than 7k. 8k or 9k if you're keen.
I regularly take my L28 to 8500 and of course L24 is shorter stroke so lower piston speeds.

Im thinking now if I could keep my 2.4 that would be best in my eyes so I can build a engine to start with and enjoy and then build a better engine in the future with efi and a trigger setup when I have more experance with the l series engines as they are fairly different from my building of RB engines
 

Robbie J

Club Member
Im thinking now if I could keep my 2.4 that would be best in my eyes so I can build a engine to start with and enjoy and then build a better engine in the future with efi and a trigger setup when I have more experance with the l series engines as they are fairly different from my building of RB engines
I'm putting a RB in my 280Z interested on your opinions
 

Pondo

Club Member
Hmm its a option but I want to try and get my body restored correctly and in a perfect world I would have 2 cars a original one and a rb power one

I can understand this.

Don’t know if you get to many meets Kris but Hiro is an interesting guy to speak to. I’m sure he was telling me he was involved in some aspect of design on the RB engine when he was at Bicester heritage last year.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

kris broughton

Club Member
I can understand this.

Don’t know if you get to many meets Kris but Hiro is an interesting guy to speak to. I’m sure he was telling me he was involved in some aspect of design on the RB engine when he was at Bicester heritage last year.

To be honest I'm new to the Datsun club, and haven't been to any meets I'm down in Devon I don't know if there would be meets nearish me.

Im looking around for lightweight pistons for the L24 and rods but it seems like most are either l26 or l28 engines.

For a E88 head is there anyway of telling if I would have the style with softer valve seats without taking the head off I'm pretty sure I know the answer which is no.

Also can anyone recomend a brand for head items and valve sizes I can run without having piston/bore clearance issues.
 
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