1973 Fairlady Z - refurb and fix

[Faster Behr]

Some more wiring malfeasance this afternoon.

I have brought a suitable power supply forward for the screen wash pump along with a switched earth from the push switch. Try as I might, I’ve not been able to find any of the original screen wash pump wiring in the original loom. It’s all still factory wrapped in and around the bulkhead area so I’ve no idea where this has gone. Short of cutting the loom open I’m going to chalk it up as a mystery. If I didn’t know better I’d swear this car never had a wash system!

The wipers had me puzzled. They would park, but only at the top of the screen. I stripped the motor out and reversed the fulcrum which bolts to the motor drive by 180 degrees. This has sorted it. They now reverse and park properly at the lower level as intended. I also gave the arms and joints a good grease up. The motor bag (and the motor inside) is immaculate. The area in and around the scuttle and scuttle drains are totally rust free which is reassuring.

The horn which refused to work was also a challenge. The horn relay had been connected the wrong way around. Anyone who has had the pleasure of working on the relay bracket with the dash still in situ will know what the backs of my hands and fingers look like. But I maintained my jolly demeanour and proceeded with patience.

I’ve also replaced the hazard and turn signal relays with good quality aftermarket ones. Worthwhile maintenance.

I’ve removed and inspected the fuse box. The back of it is immaculate with no evidence of thermal damage or overload.

My MPH speedo has been cleaned and titivated and is ready to refit. The kmh speedo has been cleaned, boxed and catalogued on the shelf.

I had a look at the Holley carb again (yeah, I know) this afternoon whilst idly sipping my tea. The choke is electric and the +ve has been wired onto a switched live supply at the floor console. I can’t get my mind round this. I’m thinking this was the job of the guy who wired the horn relay and assembled the wipers. I can’t think of a proper way around this without fully interlocking it with a temperature control. I really don’t want to invest any time on this as I’ll be ditching it come the autumn for a swanky new setup. I think for now I’ll just wire a choke switch.

Talking of which; I’ve been reading up on intake systems and FI. I had a good look at various bits and bobs from RHD Japan. The issue there is they offer very little intel on what things come with or how they should be combined. If anyone has done a really nice FI setup for an L28 I’d very much like their advice. I’m not interested in big HP gains. I want something smooth and reliable which gives a nod towards its heritage.

 

[SacCyclone]

I too have been under the dash of my 72 zed trying to sort the am fm radio and replacing the defrost switch in the center console. Laying on my back and over the seats in order to use a multi meter under the dash is screaming out my age to me. LOL
Mike

 

[Bazzateer]

I too have been under the dash of my 72 zed trying to sort the am fm radio and replacing the defrost switch in the center console. Laying on my back and over the seats in order to use a multi meter under the dash is screaming out my age to me. LOL
Mike

When I was working under the dash on my 260 I whipped out the seats, just 4 bolts each, made it much easier.

 

[richiep]

I have been trying to find out more about the history of the Fairlady Z-L model primarliy for my own interest and in the hope of locating some images which represent how it would have looked from new. This is particularly important to me as I would like to make sure it is properly badged and has the right wheels and trim reinstated eventually. Unfortunately there seems to be very little out there online. I have found one opensource data sheet which suggests that production was from 1969 to late 1973 with 15076 units produced. I am unable to verify any of this of course. If this is accurate then this would make this car one of the later ones. I can't see the difference in trim levels or what the trim levels consisted of, apart from understanding this as a Deluxe model as confirmed by Albrecht. If anyone can point me towards more info then that would be marvellous.

Here's one image of what is said to be a ZL -

View attachment 49555

I am giddily looking forward to working on wiring issues tomorrow. Apparently it's going to be good weather too

That's a pretty typical representation of what an unmolested Z-L would look like. In terms of the minutiae of the specifications, listen to what Alan tells you! The basic outline though of what a Z-L would have over and above a poverty-spec Z (S30-S) would be heated rear screen, rubber trim on bumper corners, floor carpets rather than rubber mats, likely a rally clock, passenger floor rest. Rear spoiler likely too. Beyond that, interior and exterior trim would be identical. Obviously, most people ditched the steel wheels ASAP for something more sporty. These cars were practically made to have the RS Watanabe R-type wheel fitted on them!

My Z-L is a bit of a mish-mash unfortunately due to having been in the UK since 73 and previously "converted" by someone into a 240Z. Most of its JDM features went AWOL, and I had to return them, like the mesh grille, emblems, fender mirrors, front indicators, etc. (still no rally clock or footrest, and wrong rear bumper centre section; I kept the mph speedo for practicality).

You need to buy the Brian Long book "Datsun Z: From Fairlady to 280Z" - it provides you the detail and story you are looking for relative to the JDM cars in English, which is a rarity. Alan contributed to the book, so that gives you an idea that it is barking up the right tree info-wise.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

You need to buy the Brian Long book "Datsun Z: From Fairlady to 280Z" - it provides you the detail and story you are looking for relative to the JDM cars in English, which is a rarity. Alan contributed to the book, so that gives you an idea that it is barking up the right tree info-wise.

I can sell you that book, in fact I have quite a few books I'm considering selling. A few 'special' ones I'll keep.

 

[Faster Behr]

That's a pretty typical representation of what an unmolested Z-L would look like. In terms of the minutiae of the specifications, listen to what Alan tells you! The basic outline though of what a Z-L would have over and above a poverty-spec Z (S30-S) would be heated rear screen, rubber trim on bumper corners, floor carpets rather than rubber mats, likely a rally clock, passenger floor rest. Rear spoiler likely too. Beyond that, interior and exterior trim would be identical. Obviously, most people ditched the steel wheels ASAP for something more sporty. These cars were practically made to have the RS Watanabe R-type wheel fitted on them!

My Z-L is a bit of a mish-mash unfortunately due to having been in the UK since 73 and previously "converted" by someone into a 240Z. Most of its JDM features went AWOL, and I had to return them, like the mesh grille, emblems, fender mirrors, front indicators, etc. (still no rally clock or footrest, and wrong rear bumper centre section; I kept the mph speedo for practicality).

This makes for fascinating reading, thank you.

This car has all of the above features with exception of the mirrors, emblems, mesh grille and spoiler. Would the grille and spoiler have been optional or would this trim level have had them?

I’ve got a set of reproduction mirrors on the way from Japan. They will hopefully pass scrutiny (Albrecht I’m looking at you)

I’ve got three new Fairlady Z badges. I’m not sure what other emblems would have been on the rear as many photos simply don’t offer high enough resolution. I’m assuming the bonnet emblem may have been a simple Z..

I actually like the steel wheels, but the Watanabes. They just look perfect. I will spend more time researching size and offset but not a top priority right now.

I had a friend round yesterday to look at the roof. He is happy he can take care of it. It’s had some stress but he’s confident he can relax it and get it spot on. This should be going in at the beginning of April. The rest of the car will get done in the winter.

I can sell you that book, in fact I have quite a few books I'm considering selling. A few 'special' ones I'll keep.

That sounds smashing - yes please Rob. Can you kindly PM me the details?

 

[Albrecht]

I’ve got three new Fairlady Z badges. I’m not sure what other emblems would have been on the rear as many photos simply don’t offer high enough resolution. I’m assuming the bonnet emblem may have been a simple Z..

Emblems would be:

Bonnet: 'Z' script roundel. The proper S30 type (thick and rounded profile) not the commonly-substituted S130 type (thinner and flatter profile)

Bottom of front wings: 'FairladyZ' script.

Quarter panels: 'Z' roundel vent. Same as contemporary Export market cars.

Tailgate: 'FairladyZ' script (specific to tailgate, and not same as the front wing version) plus 'NISSAN' oblong emblem beneath it.

 

[Albrecht]

This car has all of the above features with exception of the mirrors, emblems, mesh grille and spoiler. Would the grille and spoiler have been optional or would this trim level have had them?

Spoiler would have been an extra cost option at time of new car order (difficult to retro-fit because of emblem situation). They were often added later into ownership cycle, with original emblem holes filled and painted. The emblems then went on the spoiler.

Mesh grille was standard on your particular car.

 

[Faster Behr]

Fantastic, thanks. That’s given me something to aim for - appreciated. I’m going to go no spoiler I think. The grille is a must for sure.

Right now I’m on to rebuilding the damaged wiring harnesses for the front lamps. Would anyone know if it’s possible to obtain aftermarket bulb holders for the for the indicator/side lamps? They look fairly standard articles. One is 2 way, the other 3 way.

 

[IbanezDan51]

Emblems would be:

Bonnet: 'Z' script roundel. The proper S30 type (thick and rounded profile) not the commonly-substituted S130 type (thinner and flatter profile)

Bottom of front wings: 'FairladyZ' script.

Quarter panels: 'Z' roundel vent. Same as contemporary Export market cars.

Tailgate: 'FairladyZ' script (specific to tailgate, and not same as the front wing version) plus 'NISSAN' oblong emblem beneath it.

View attachment 49679

Hi Alan,

Where might somebody get the correct fairlady rear spoiler emblem and bonnet emblem? I noticed the S130 bonnet badge is widely available but struggle with the other.

Dan

 

[richiep]

Hi Alan,

Where might somebody get the correct fairlady rear spoiler emblem and bonnet emblem? I noticed the S130 bonnet badge is widely available but struggle with the other.

Dan

The bonnet emblems are now available as repros. I've got one on my red Z (as a replacement for the rough original one I had), and another for the project car. Not cheap though!!! Check YAJ auctions.

 

[Faster Behr]

I've been really lucky to have a good couple of days on the car ironing out more electrical issues. Fault finding, as we know, takes time and patience. Well I have certainly needed both. I have fixed the horns - the issue being there weren't any (seriously - gone), and the fact that the horn relay was wired incorrectly. The list goes on. I have been through a good 90% of the cars wiring. The last job tonight was to reconnect the new harnesses that I had made for the front indicator lamps - turn signal, marker and park light. The car decided it didn't like this new found electrical load and proceeded to start smoking the indicator switch on the right hand side. It's like a game of whack-a-mole honestly. I'll address that tomorrow as the first job.

I have got more bits and bobs on order including a couple of sets of Raybrig headlamps to replace the old sealed beam units; and a set for one of the other cars. I have got all new M4 and M5 fasteners for the headlamps and their buckets on order as well as new reproduction gaskets. Instead of refurbishing the old headlamp harness I have ordered a pair of the HLH harnesses from carbuilder.com. They are the right length and have the H4 plug and a tailed grommet in just the right place. I also bought a set of clear headlamp covers although I am undecided if I should fit them on this car.

Whilst pondering the Holly carb (yes, I know) with my cuppa earlier I fiddled around with the choke mechanism and worked out how it operated electrically. In the process of arming and rearming the choke I noticed a stream of petrol coming out of one of the throttle spindles and running down the exhaust manifold. As far as I am concerned it just sealed it's own fate. It has got to go. I had hoped that I could get the car on the road in the next month and soldier on with this carb but that's not happening now. I need to pull my finger out and do something else.

I do have most of the components of a 280Z EFi setup (sans wiring and ECU) that Dan kindly gifted to me. I am thinking I might get this up together and pair it with one of the EZ-EFi kits that zcardepot sell. This is essentially a loom, ECU, TPS, MAP sensor and temp sensor with a programmable interface nd the details to set your own base tune. It works with the standard ignition system. There's a few good YouTube videos which cover it. All in all it looks like a nice kit. I think I may get this on the car for the short term until I have more time for something a little more exotic. My son's 280Z is still running the standard EFi and he has expressed an interest in converting that, so maybe the EZ kit could make its way onto that in the future. It's all good fun.

Tomorrow I am going to get to the bottom of the coil and tacho wiring which has been hacked about. Thank the baby jesus for the forum search function eh.

 

[Mr Ex Jnr]

I want these:

フェアレディＺ用 純正 フェンダーミラー 復刻... - ヤフオク!

【★フェアレディＺ用 純正 フェンダーミラー 復刻版 足長タイプ 】 ■カラー/ セミグロスブラックバージョン 左右セット ￥３８．８００ (税込)～ 長らくメーカー製廃となっておりましたが、 ついに復刻版の登場です♪◎48年 240ZGから型取りしました！ ◆対応車種 &nbs

page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp

If anyone does know a way to get them imported please let me and Faster Behr know!

I have a set hehe wouldn't sell them unless I got another set and would want good momey for them in the Nissan box's too still

 

[Rob Gaskin]

If you are getting smoking from the switches/loom you need to check the fusing and the fusible link at the starter motor. You could do permanent damage. Perhaps put a temporary 10a fuse in circuit at the fusible link whilst fault finding?

 

[Faster Behr]

If you are getting smoking from the switches/loom you need to check the fusing and the fusible link at the starter motor. You could do permanent damage. Perhaps put a temporary 10a fuse in circuit at the fusible link whilst fault finding?

Thanks Rob. The issue seems to be a simple case of carbonised contacts at the rocker inside the indicator switch. I patched the solder terminals at the rear of the switch and full power comes onto the instrument lamp and indicator lamps themselves.

Now onto trying to work out the bodgery on the tacho wiring. The primary complication here is in making out the japanese characters on the wiring diagram to their corresponding colours, I just can't get enough resolution on screen or in print.

I try to cross reference this with 73/74 US cars from FSMs available online to copy the colours the best I can but there are subtle differences. Coupled with the fact that this car seems to have a 280Z tacho, no ballast resistor and a 280ZX distributor..

 

[TimFZ]

Emblems would be:

Bonnet: 'Z' script roundel. The proper S30 type (thick and rounded profile) not the commonly-substituted S130 type (thinner and flatter profile)

Bottom of front wings: 'FairladyZ' script.

Quarter panels: 'Z' roundel vent. Same as contemporary Export market cars.

Tailgate: 'FairladyZ' script (specific to tailgate, and not same as the front wing version) plus 'NISSAN' oblong emblem beneath it.

View attachment 49679

On the Fairlady pics I have seen without rear spoiler, the Fairlady is on the right of the boot lid at a jaunty angle and the Nissan logo is at the bottom left of the boot lid. At least, that's where I put them based on previous conversations!

 

[Albrecht]

On the Fairlady pics I have seen without rear spoiler, the Fairlady is on the right of the boot lid at a jaunty angle and the Nissan logo is at the bottom left of the boot lid. At least, that's where I put them based on previous conversations!

Be aware that they moved them around gradually through production. The emblem type & positioning information I gave is correct for the particular car in question, but won't necessarily be correct for a Japanese market car produced on a different month & year.

 

[Albrecht]

Now onto trying to work out the bodgery on the tacho wiring. The primary complication here is in making out the japanese characters on the wiring diagram to their corresponding colours, I just can't get enough resolution on screen or in print.

If you tell me what section(s) you want blown up in higher resolution, I'll scan them for you.

 

[Faster Behr]

That would be incredibly helpful, thank you. Essentially from the coil at the bottom left to the tacho at the top right.

 

[Albrecht]

OK, stand by.