1971 240z

[240carsten]

Yup,
Got it back on its wheels again as I have to vacate the lock-up this week.
Need to sort the ride heights out a tad tho.. But will wait until the engine gets dropped in!
My other screwup was I left the diff out thinking I could install it later after the car is moved. But thats not the case I understand..

Yea, 225/50-15 on Atara!

 

[johnymd]

If the driveshafts are removed then the diff is not a problem.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

It looks like a Tonka Toy

Yeh if you can change a diff when it's on it's wheels why can't you fit one?

 

[240carsten]

Aha, ok thats great then!
i just saw alot of pictures where people are hoisting entire back sections, diff and all, into the car and bolting it down. my felling is that there is enough space to thread the diff and moustache bar up into its spot, bolt it down and finally fit the rear ARB.
Poke in the driveshafts (courtesy of Sean) into the Subaru LSD'd diff and jobs a goodun'

 

[240carsten]

The other reason I didnt do with the diff, was that I am working alone at floor height.. So balancing the diff on the jack, rear struts flopping around dinging the wings and trying tighten up the multitude of nuts and bolts whilst avoiding the sticky urethane bushing lube/gloop did not really thrill me.
Plan is to drag it to a friends place with a lift and transmissiion jack, and sort it then.

 

[johnymd]

Moustache bar can be bolted on along with everything else. You then fit the diff by pocking the diff bolts through the moustache bar which takes most of the weight until you bolt up the from crossmember.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

rear struts flopping around dinging the wings

Why aren't they fitted first?

 

[240carsten]

Rolled it out into the sunlight! its like I have turned a corner getting it back on wheels!!

Had a play with ride height, mainly at the rear.

One issue that arose was the TechnoToyTuning bumpsteer spacers did not allow the steering toelinks any space to clear the rims as the steering knuckle is inside the inner rim.
So I knocked them out again, and will simply not lower the car too much when setting the ride height when I drop the engine in. I'll see if they are really needed at all..
The block is still away getting hottanked and cleaned along with machining for the 3.1 stroker bits, so thats a while off still

 

[SeanDezart]

Chnage the repeaters around flyboy - they look silly (bulky) against the wheelarch extensions. Going with orange too at the rear (which incidentally looks nice against your blue) ?

 

[240carsten]

Eh? Swap em? How?
You on about the side repeaters? (which by hindsight I should have gotten removed before painting, but the danish authorities want a wing repeater for MOT)

 

[SeanDezart]

Swap them around so that the larger, more protruding face is towards the front.

And fit orange ones at the rear.

 

[240carsten]

Ah.. I was thinking aerodynamics when I whacked em on like they are now.

 

[SeanDezart]

With a stroker and wheelarches ?

If aeros are important to you, work more on the front end.

 

[240carsten]

Meh.. Its a pilot thing..
Headlight covers, spook dam to come

 

[SeanDezart]

And these are proven to work upon what is otherwise a brick pushing air ?

 

[zNathan]

That's gonna look pretty cool when it's done I reckon. Not a fan of headlight covers but to each their own! Those Atara's look really cool too. Keep the photos coming!

 

[SeanDezart]

Yeah, unless you have the metal trimmed ones, they're gonna look 'cheap' on an otherwise well-finished car (ihmo).

 

[Albrecht]

432r grill

Sorry to nitpick, but it's something I'm slightly OCD about: I very, very much doubt that you'll have a genuine E7200 PS30-SB front grille.

It's almost certainly the generic one-type-fits-all E4100/E4101 and all subsequent supercession type Japanese market mesh grille.

People call them '432' grilles, but in fact the 432 shared the same mesh grille with all the other short nose grilles fitted to contemporary build dated Japanese market models (S30-S, S30, HS30-S, HS30). It was the 432-R that had the rare fine-mesh grille, and it's unlikely to be one of them...


I like the colour of the car, but I can't get my head around the black welting between the overfenders and the body. It makes it look like a VW beetle. The factory didn't use welting between the factory ZG overfenders and body, and if your overfenders are the right shape they shouldn't need it.

Spoils what I think is otherwise a great looking build. Sorry!

 

[richiep]

I love how this looks Carsten. That kind of blue was something I'd wondered about for my next project - looks great.

I'm with Sean though - either no headlight covers or the proper JDM metal trimmed ones (an investment worth making IMO). The common black rimmed ones look nasty.

 

[Rob Gaskin]

...............I'm with Sean though - either no headlight covers or the proper JDM metal trimmed ones (an investment worth making IMO). The common black rimmed ones look nasty.

I agree, I've got them on my blue car, why?

I didn't put them on, they cause problems and look cheap.