tel240z
Club Member
I'm sure he could Craig, its in the factory pressing on the production, its to make the pannel stronger but you new that anyway
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Shell Preparation. Essential but not much fun.
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I'm sure he could Craig, its in the factory pressing on the production, its to make the pannel stronger but you new that anyway
Throttleton
Well-Known Forum User
I haven't got a steel shell for reference tel240z, mine went a long time ago!!
Having considered it for all of 5mins no it wont make it stronger it will make it stiffer which is different.
Having considered it for all of 5mins no it wont make it stronger it will make it stiffer which is different.
SeanDezart
Well-Known Forum User
Right then.........
work is continuing across a broad front on theis project.
Here are a couple of areas currently receiving some attention..........................................................
Small panels. Cones. wing flaps. rear light panels and toolbox lids.
There is no doubt(in my mind anyway) that acid dippping for smaller panels is a great way to get them "as new" and back to clean rust free metal.
the trick is to rinse them thoroughly. Dry them and then get a coating of Zinc Galv spray straight on to the clean metal.
They can then be packed away till they are primered and fitted back on the shell.
Bead balsting. shot blasting . media blasting or whatever you wish to call it is another great way to get stuff back to "as new" metal.
my old school Minilites have been blasted. Then I had my machine shop press in the new taper syeel nut inserts similar to new Minilites. these will now accept heavy duty studs and taper seated nuts rather than the troublesome old school sleeve nuts direct in to the alloy.
They are al redy now to go off for powder coating. Another brilliant process IMO.
work is continuing across a broad front on theis project.
Here are a couple of areas currently receiving some attention..........................................................
Small panels. Cones. wing flaps. rear light panels and toolbox lids.
There is no doubt(in my mind anyway) that acid dippping for smaller panels is a great way to get them "as new" and back to clean rust free metal.
the trick is to rinse them thoroughly. Dry them and then get a coating of Zinc Galv spray straight on to the clean metal.
They can then be packed away till they are primered and fitted back on the shell.
Bead balsting. shot blasting . media blasting or whatever you wish to call it is another great way to get stuff back to "as new" metal.
my old school Minilites have been blasted. Then I had my machine shop press in the new taper syeel nut inserts similar to new Minilites. these will now accept heavy duty studs and taper seated nuts rather than the troublesome old school sleeve nuts direct in to the alloy.
They are al redy now to go off for powder coating. Another brilliant process IMO.
Attachments
Please forgive me pete for imposing on this super dooper thread(given me the chance to see what a normal shell looks like
),feel free tome.Just thought i'd add just in case anyone wasn't aware, be careful if you happen to use acid to clean high strength fasteners ie high strength wheel studs/bolts and other stressed high strength fasteners due to accelerating(hydrogen embrittlement),unlikely anyone is going to need to derust one in an acid bath but you never know.It's a big subject,anyone interested look it up on the net as i cant upload the paper due to being an attachment upload whore.
),feel free tome.Just thought i'd add just in case anyone wasn't aware, be careful if you happen to use acid to clean high strength fasteners ie high strength wheel studs/bolts and other stressed high strength fasteners due to accelerating(hydrogen embrittlement),unlikely anyone is going to need to derust one in an acid bath but you never know.It's a big subject,anyone interested look it up on the net as i cant upload the paper due to being an attachment upload whore.
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Bantambunny
Well-Known Forum User
Bloody hell pete you haven't finished the Orange wondercar yet without starting another decade long project
Good work so far buddy, was thinking i'll pop up and catch up with you soon - seems an age since i've spoken to you!
Good work so far buddy, was thinking i'll pop up and catch up with you soon - seems an age since i've spoken to you!
Please forgive me pete for imposing on this super dooper thread(given me the chance to see what a normal shell looks like
There is no need to apologise for adding informed and intelligent comments to any thread of mine.
I tend to use acid for de-rusting non stressed stuff. But I have noted the point and I can understand it.
The appropriate page in the Rally Design Catalogue will show you all you require.
M
madmarco
Lookin good Pete, those parts look better than new!
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
Very nice Pete. Car is coming along well.
Is this the same shell you had when I came over? I had no idea it needed new floors! Looked very clean when I saw it.
Be nice to see the cage in... My cage will be getting tagged also for FIA purposes but not historic racing. Unsure wether to go for a chromemoly or standard cds...weight saving vs. cost as always I guess.
Dan
Is this the same shell you had when I came over? I had no idea it needed new floors! Looked very clean when I saw it.
Be nice to see the cage in... My cage will be getting tagged also for FIA purposes but not historic racing. Unsure wether to go for a chromemoly or standard cds...weight saving vs. cost as always I guess.
Dan
It didnt NEED new floors. I put new rear floors in for strength and appearance.
We have had a trial fit of the whole cage. Its fits(obviously as its std Safety Devices item) but it wont be finally fitted for some time..
We are now finishing off the new seat mounts and have made a start on the jacking points for the quick lift jacks. These will be tied in to the cage mounting plates.
Once that is done then fabrication is complete and I can get some paint underneath the shell. then inside.
I did a couple of deals at Autosport Show on a pair of 75mm FIA approved seatbelts and a pair of FIA approved fire extinguishers. One hand held. the other plumbed in.
Cheap
Throttleton
Well-Known Forum User
That is a major point to reach in any rebuild.
Now comes the part where (hopefully) you are building the car with all new shiny bits which has got to be the most rewarding stage of the build.
That is a major point to reach in any rebuild.
Now comes the part where (hopefully) you are building the car with all new shiny bits which has got to be the most rewarding stage of the build.
There is a LOT of painting to be done first Craig,
However I am pleased to be at this point now.
Maybe I should have used the word "fabrication " rather than welding.
There were initially some minor "welding repairs" to be done.. New slam panel on rear deck. New rear outer sill returns. Small amount on ends of chassis rails under floor.
However the makority of the welding has been to add strengthening thtough stich welding existing seams and add Roll cage mounts. New seat mounts. Rear harness bar and harness plates. Also the addition of four side mount jacking points.
We am not recording a precise number of hours but we already over the 100 hour mark up to now.
Even at a modest "nominal hourly rate" or £20 that is over £2K.
Nigel Brook
Well-Known Forum User
Pete: Is that h/brake lever long enough? In my experience you need extra effort to lock up the rear brakes and what are doing to satisfy the MOT man ?
Pete: Is that h/brake lever long enough? In my experience you need extra effort to lock up the rear brakes and what are doing to satisfy the MOT man ?
MOT man will be happy............when he looks under the car
"is it long enough?" Well its the same as the unit sold by Peter LLoyd Rallying.
Duncan at Z farm has a similar unit on his new car.it has a 280mm lever. The same as the OBP unit from JJC Race and Rally and Demon Tweeks So I guess its fine.
If it isnt then we can change the cylinder to get more pressure.
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