Racing at Le Mans Classic

Crofty

Club Member
I will be racing at Le Mans Classic later this year and my thoughts are now turning to preparing the car. I would love to hear from anyone that has raced there before and can give me some help with advice on the 240Z race setup. Rob
 
Err....not exactly raced but sweated in the paddocks !:D

Rob - there are a huge bunch of us present at Le Mans Classic, we'll have a busy club-stand - with a few surprise cars on it with at least one rare pearl....hopefully we can meet up and if we can help in any way to support, spare parts, whatever, give me a shout - my contact details are on my signature.

I know your car of course as it began its new life not far from here.

Seriously, you need to speak with Dave Jarman - he's still alive, I had him on the phone last night.

But aren't JDClassics supporting you and setting it up ?:confused:
 

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Based upon your experience at Spa Rob, I think that you'll need at least a different diff ratio (and a spare), some downforce aides....a lot of parts in fact as yours does not follow the more aerodynamic form of that which ran in '75/'76.

At your service if you want to chat.
 
That's great news, hope you can get your car set up and look forward to meeting you and the rest of the guys over the weekend
 
Rob, as long as your car is running sweetly (unlike Donington) I would offer some basic advice intend to get you round - the performance enhancing advice can come later.

Lights - very important, the track is well lit but you will need decent lights and others will need to see you. Align them before you get there. Fuses, relays etc know where they are and have spares. Z switchgear on the column is notoriously unreliable.

Mirrors, sorry but this will be important the cars in your races will be the fastest all weekend and even I got to a true 130mph on a parade lap.

Wipers, again sooo important and yet on a Z they are very poor. Rainx ?

Demisting - seen lots of races/rallies in the rain where cars without heaters mist up badly. Have a demist pad on a long stick (you will be harnessed in of course).

Lower your car if poss.

With the greatest respect :bow: you will be near the tail so enjoy and be safe, reliable.

I don't know what the rules are at Le Mans but track positioning/ etiquette is obviously very important because of the closing speeds.

Do you know your racing-speed mpg, tank size etc

How do you communicate with your pit? Boards, intercom or both.
 
Good advice although I believe that there is a heated front screen fitted.

Brake cooling (long straights and tight chicanes).

Driver cooling - Le Mans is either sh*te weather (so yeah - rainX) or blazing sunshine - think about a 45min stint - cool air, water to drink...

Have some basic tools with you for roadside assistence.
 
Hi guys, thanks for the messages. I definitely need to change the diff and will need some help sourcing the right one hopefully to give me a bit more speed down the straight. I also need to add to my spare package which is getting ever bigger! I have put a heated front screen in - I am thinking about Lexan side and rear windows to make the car a bit lighter and definitely need to get the car lower. Would love a chat Sean. JD's are not supporting me - they initially went through the whole car and sorted some major bits out for me but now Phoenix Race and Rally based down in Carshalton, Surrey have been looking after it.
 
Driver cooling - Le Mans is either sh*te weather (so yeah - rainX) or blazing sunshine - think about a 45min stint - cool air, water to drink.

Not kidding... the place seems to have a binary weather system - it'll either soak you or try to bake you... often both on the same day!

Great fun though!
 
Hi guys, thanks for the messages. I definitely need to change the diff and will need some help sourcing the right one hopefully to give me a bit more speed down the straight. I also need to add to my spare package which is getting ever bigger! I have put a heated front screen in - I am thinking about Lexan side and rear windows to make the car a bit lighter and definitely need to get the car lower. Would love a chat Sean. JD's are not supporting me - they initially went through the whole car and sorted some major bits out for me but now Phoenix Race and Rally based down in Carshalton, Surrey have been looking after it.


Hi Rob
I would love to know the specs of your car, ratios etc.
Any pics?
 
Hi Rob
I would love to know the specs of your car, ratios etc.
Any pics?

Hi Racer, that would assume that I have some technical ability! Not sure what diff is in it at the moment - it is a R180. Car runs drum brakes on the rear and discs front. FIA fuel tank that I just had to re-mortgage for. Slicks and historic pattern cut slicks for the wet. Original radiator as was not allowed aluminium one for FIA papers.
Best car I have ever raced and is so much fun - especially in the wet as it has loads of grip. Depending on race entered and the regs will depend on tyres used etc.
 
Hi Crofty As mentioned by others I will be at the Classic with some of my pit crew as well, if you need any assistance we would be pleased to help. Brakes will work really hard and a long diff is essential for Mulsanne and the run down to Indianapolis, lighting round the track is pretty good but you will need extra lighting in certain areas, the rules do state you;re supposed to use road legal lighting but there are ways. I would consider a diff cooler especially as it may well be hot! Anyway if you need any info or help let me know .
Steve
 
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Hi Racer, that would assume that I have some technical ability! Not sure what diff is in it at the moment - it is a R180. Car runs drum brakes on the rear and discs front. FIA fuel tank that I just had to re-mortgage for. Slicks and historic pattern cut slicks for the wet. Original radiator as was not allowed aluminium one for FIA papers.
Best car I have ever raced and is so much fun - especially in the wet as it has loads of grip. Depending on race entered and the regs will depend on tyres used etc.


Ok cool
It's difficult to suggest a Final drive ratio without knowing your engines specs etc.

I used to run a 4.375 rear end in the 70's Roadsports championship using a highly tuned 2.4 as per the regs.
With 7500/8000 rpm to play with I had a theoretical top speed of around 140Mph.

If your running a good spec 2.8 or above you will probably need something a bit taller, maybe a 4.11 or a 3.9

When I raced I had to run standard disks and drums also but, with a good race pad and shoes Zed brakes can be very good.
The main issue is cooling, so race fluid and ducting is a must if regs allow.
 
If your running a good spec 2.8 or above you will probably need something a bit taller, maybe a 4.11 or a 3.9

Or even 3.7 or 3.54 - I think that you should have a word also with 'tmr' here, he knows an awful lot and shared that podium at the Spa 6 hrs - Ratson ran his a*se off that night eh Steve ?;):cool:
 
Eau Rouge always grabs the headlines and is a fantastic section of track when you get it right but Blachimont flat out in the dry with nothing left in the tank or in 5th in the dark and chucking it down certainly ensures your full attention and can be very lonely place, at high speed wipers were pretty ineffective so would switch them off as they became a distraction and would look beyond the windscreen if you can comprehend that. I love that place.
 
Never raced there, but having raced all over U K and Spa and having driven the circuit the only thing I can say is - if you can handle the bends in the uk then the bends at le mans are fine. The thing that marks this circuit out for me (and others will no doubt have there own opinions) is grunt! It was my dream to do the classic before the kids arrived , but it is a tick I missed!
I do remember speaking to a friend who raced here in an E type, and all he said was he was topping out at something like 160 ish, and GT40's were howling past at a far greater lick than that! It was funny to here him say that the E Type was just too slow !
Looking forward to seeing you out there, and good luck!
 
Agreed - grunt....and it was the same back in '76 !

One needs at least 300bhp (and proper gearing) to stand any chance of not finishing last and lapped.
 
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