My first classic (part-refurb) '78 280z, LHD, auto, Ex-California

yellowz said:
You missed what I was asking Jason. Is there a big difference in CCA between the old and new batteries? Would not have thought so....
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Ok, got it
Assuming the yanks use the same exact description for CCA and Amps 🤣 cos they keep changing things
Old (shitbox) battery is 640
New battery is 740
  • Startup Power: 740Amps (CCA)
  • Capacity: 80Ah
  • Bench Charge: 6Amps
 
Fellas
Update
12.67v, new battery not touched since yesterday
12.44v, new battery after a very quick turn of the key
10.9v, new battery while the key is turned on and starter is turning over
12.4, power at the starter connection points while at rest
10.6, , power at the starter connection points while turning over

No Spark :mad:
The pic attached is the #1 spark plug
has a bit of oil on it
No spark when I turn the car over

What next ? Do I need a new starter ? How do I diagnose the need for a new starter ?
Or does the presence of oil on the spark plug suggest worse ?

🙏 for some good news 🤣
 

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Without being there it’s difficult to say for sure, but it sounds like your battery isn’t getting charged 12.4 volts at rest is low and while it may crank the starter it might not be pushing out enough to energise the ignition. What’s your alternator warning light doing when you turn the ignition switch? Does it come on and if you do indeed start the car does it stay on? Maybe worth just checking the alternator is charging. Some words of wisdom from Mr Haynes:

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If the alternator is suspect drop into Bristol Auto Electrics down Albert Road in St Philips. They might be able to refurbish it cheaper than a replacement.

P.s Bristol Batteries are far better quality batteries than Halfords should you need another in the future.
 
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Huw said:
Without being there it’s difficult to say for sure, but it sounds like your battery isn’t getting charged 12.4 volts at rest is low and while it may crank the starter it might not be pushing out enough to energise the ignition. What’s your alternator warning light doing when you turn the ignition switch? Does it come on and if you do indeed start the car does it stay on? Maybe worth just checking the alternator is charging. Some words of wisdom from Mr Haynes:

View attachment 54086
View attachment 54087
If the alternator is suspect drop into Bristol Auto Electrics down Albert Road in St Philips. They might be able to refurbish it cheaper that a replacement.

P.s Bristol Batteries are far better quality batteries than Halfords should you need another in the future.
Click to expand...
Thanks a million Huw
I'll get someone to have a look at it soon
 
Huw said:
Without being there it’s difficult to say for sure, but it sounds like your battery isn’t getting charged 12.4 volts at rest is low and while it may crank the starter it might not be pushing out enough to energise the ignition. What’s your alternator warning light doing when you turn the ignition switch? Does it come on and if you do indeed start the car does it stay on? Maybe worth just checking the alternator is charging. Some words of wisdom from Mr Haynes:

View attachment 54086
View attachment 54087
If the alternator is suspect drop into Bristol Auto Electrics down Albert Road in St Philips. They might be able to refurbish it cheaper that a replacement.

P.s Bristol Batteries are far better quality batteries than Halfords should you need another in the future.
Click to expand...
Huw
Just to answer your questions
- I've never seen any activity on a alternator warning light (assuming that's the red light to the right of the battery voltage meter gauge ??)
- Alternator works - 16-17v when running at idle
- When it starts it runs really well, nothing obviously problematic at all
 
16/17v is way too much, will damage battery and more. It should be 13.5 to 14.5 ish.
your voltage regulator is bad
 
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What Jon said, way too high 🙁. Plus that little red light should come on and then go off once the engine starts. Might be worth taking that alternator to be checked over.
 
Jason McIvor said:
Oh, ok
I'll have a look at that too
Thanks Jon
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I don't know if your alternator has Internal or external regulator, which will be important. Someone will know 🤓
But it's probably not the cause of your no start problem, unless you have a different running voltage with the two batteries.
Very confusing problem.
 
Huw said:
What Jon said, way too high 🙁. Plus that little red light should come on and then go off once the engine starts. Might be worth taking that alternator to be checked over.
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I will do that
Thanks fellas

My background worry on that car has always been the electrics and you guys mentioned my rear lights are also burning way too bright on Sunday

Does anyone know an auto spark in Bristol who knows Zs ? I think Mike mentioned someone
 
Jason McIvor said:
Damn, I fo

Damn, I forgot
No, nothing from it either
Started at 13.6v, one long turn And it was 12.6v
No spark today
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Jason

Have you checked the ignition fuse, 3 rd one down on the left side. Make sure you have the correct one , if not blown.
 
Folks
Done some messing around
No power going to the fuel pump
There is continuity but no voltage

Checked all the basic fuses and they are ok
 
Making a bit of progress today
Following from battery, starter, coil and now distributor
Does this look worn out to you ?
 

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