My first classic (part-refurb) '78 280z, LHD, auto, Ex-California

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Hi Jason. Sorry to hear you are having difficulties, you car looked fab today. You definitely need a proper inline pre filter if using a close tolerance rotor vane pump. A normal filter for an carb set up won’t cut it really. Any shite in the tank and it will kill the pump very very quickly. Are you getting power to the pump, does it whirr when you first turn the key before you fire it up?

A pressure gauge is a good idea to check what pressure your getting If the pump is running. The thermotime is just a cold start enrichment device and won’t affect fuel supply, it controls the cold start injector only.

Sorry to say, best thing to do is run through the check list in the EFI bible. I’ll send you a copy of you haven’t got one.

Huw
Huw
I've got the Bible 👌
I'll start checking it out from tomorrow and see how far I get

I got this pump DELPHI FD0035
I'll look for a proper inline filter
 
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Jason McIvor

Club Member
Guys
Second stupidest question I'm going to ask

My car won't work with a 12v battery
The old battery seems to sit at 14-15v shown on the internal gauge and voltmeter - and when charged it'll turn the car on :mad: but it's really old and constantly draining

What battery should be in this car ??
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
063 like a Bosch. How do you mean it won't work?
With a standard, new, 12v battery I get the behaviour mentioned a few posts ago - turns and turns the starter but no ignition like no petrol coming through

When I put the old battery back in (reading 14ish volts) it fires up

My head hurts :banghead:
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Does it turn over at the same speed with a new battery?
Very hard to tell definitively
Old battery turns it over immediately - engine runs like pushing a button start

New battery turning starter motor quickly but it won't fire

Battery is Yuasa HSB096
12v 80Ah
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
Daft question. Have you checked there is a spark with this ‘new‘ battery?
After answer actually Huw
No !
Why wouldn't there be ? I assumed that bit was good :oops: but I will check shortly
Its fresh from Halfords this morning

Is everyone else's battery a 12V-er ?
 

Jason McIvor

Club Member
I reckon so, have you got a multimeter Jason?
Yes I do

Both batteries are currently reading 12.6 - crazy !

Here is the shitbox battery - when powered up I get immediate full start
The Yuasa takes quite a few seconds to start the car - but it does eventually start it

Maybe I should take it for a drive and get a little bit more charge into the Yuasa and see if that makes a diff ?!
 

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toopy

Club Member
A 12v car battery is considered fully charged if it reads around 12.7v, partially discharged at 12.3 and low charge or dead at 12v and below.

The alternator should throw out about 14.5v when running and so you would expect to see that on the dash gauge or your multimeter on the battery.
 
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Jason McIvor

Club Member
Yes I do

Both batteries are currently reading 12.6 - crazy !

Here is the shitbox battery - when powered up I get immediate full start
The Yuasa takes quite a few seconds to start the car - but it does eventually start it

Maybe I should take it for a drive and get a little bit more charge into the Yuasa and see if that makes a diff ?!
So, this is annoying as all hell

Put old battery in and it immediately starts
Swap to new battery, eventually starts
Go for a drive, stop the car, no chance of starting (hair pulling and teeth gnashing)
New battery is turning the starter, seemingly fast enough but not starting the car

More hair pulling tomorrow
 

yellowz

Club Member
What is the CCA on the shitbox (that works..........:)), would not have thought it would make that much difference though.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
can you check what the voltage is across the battery terminals when it's cranking? if its falling much below 10v that might be the problem.
 
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