morbias
Well-Known Forum User
zcarsource sell LH replacement sills, but as they're in the US the shipping time is about 3-4 weeks and customs stitch you up as well.
-
The Z Club relies on the support of it's paid members - join the club or renew your membership here.
Dans 240Z
- Thread starter IbanezDan51
- Start date
Well whoever is bidding against me can relax, I've stopped now
. No point in driving the cost of parts up between us!Well whoever is bidding against me can relax, I've stopped now
Rob there are THREE people bidding on this item. Black LHS sill. You dropping out wont prevent it going up again in price.
All S30 parts are going up in price. At the same time availability for many items is decreasing. More quality owners is also a contributory factor to the price rises.
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
I didn't bother bidding in the end! I thought the price was rediculous of that RH sill.... Will order one from the states or make one from a Ford Galaxy sill as they are the same shape just need the front mounting up for a wing and shortening.
Now im in need of help guys, I've trawled the internet - confused myself many times and gave up.
I need to know which rear diff I should go with - I believe the choices are R230 and R200. Now im going to be close, if not slightly exceeding, 500lb/ft of torque. I know the R200 is an easier switch but can it handle the pwoer? Any upgrades available for it?
I also know the R230 is a viscous LSD - which im not overly keen on - would much prefer a clutch type LSD.
Then it comes down to hubs - can the 4 stud hubs take the power or will I need to switch to 5 stud? I've read in places about the Z31 front hubs working with some minor modifications but thats not where the power is going to be planted. What about the rear?
Thanks everyone,
Dan
Now im in need of help guys, I've trawled the internet - confused myself many times and gave up.
I need to know which rear diff I should go with - I believe the choices are R230 and R200. Now im going to be close, if not slightly exceeding, 500lb/ft of torque. I know the R200 is an easier switch but can it handle the pwoer? Any upgrades available for it?
I also know the R230 is a viscous LSD - which im not overly keen on - would much prefer a clutch type LSD.
Then it comes down to hubs - can the 4 stud hubs take the power or will I need to switch to 5 stud? I've read in places about the Z31 front hubs working with some minor modifications but thats not where the power is going to be planted. What about the rear?
Thanks everyone,
Dan
Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
Any news on that chassis plate / chassis number / engine number photo yet?
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
Yes bud sorry, someone had painted over the vehicle number. It is all indeed on the plaque!
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
New page - just wanted to remind people of the question!
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
A 383 stroker bud (Cheverolet V8). Not sure on transmission yet - either a Super T-10 (but they are only a 4 speed - so not great for motorway) or a tremec 5 speed.
Just need to know which rear differential I should use. I dont want to convert the car to a ford 9 inch....
Just need to know which rear differential I should use. I dont want to convert the car to a ford 9 inch....
I'll check the Galaxy sill situation - interesting, thanks!
Four to the floor had a high degree of cool but the Tremec gets my vote.
As for the diff, with that much torque you don't get second chances, 230 all the way
As for the diff, with that much torque you don't get second chances, 230 all the way
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
So a VISCOUS LSD? And I go for the short nose one? These came in the 1990 onwards cars (300ZX turbos)?
Oki doki, fingers crossed it can take the power.
No sorry, wires crossed
R230 but rip the innards out, throw them away, fit a quaife and rest easy
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
I dont want to spend over £1000 just on doing a rear end conversion. The quaiffe diff will have to wait for another day. Will the VISCOUS LSD be man enough for now?
Albrecht
Well-Known Forum User
A build like yours is a package of components that all have to work together. There is absolutely no point in asking about such important, major components in isolation. You ( and those you are asking ) have to consider all the other links in the chain before coming up with a solution.
You might well find that a 'long case' R200 ( the 'old' type ) is plenty strong enough if you choose a gear ratio that is less likely to break. It's easier to break a 5.1 ratio R200 than it is a 3.1 ratio, for example. So your chosen ratio ( obviously dependant on the kind of motoring you want to do, and your rear tyre diameter ) will be an important factor. The actual tyre choice will also be a key factor. You will be less likely to break your diff, driveshafts, companion flanges and stub axles if you can't get any traction....
Your question about hubs / stub axles etc will also have ramifications on the diff choice, and vice-versa. Driveshafts ( halfshafts ) type / choice will be a key link that has a domino effect on other component specs.
I suspect the answers to many such questions are to be found on www.hybridz.org
You might well find that a 'long case' R200 ( the 'old' type ) is plenty strong enough if you choose a gear ratio that is less likely to break. It's easier to break a 5.1 ratio R200 than it is a 3.1 ratio, for example. So your chosen ratio ( obviously dependant on the kind of motoring you want to do, and your rear tyre diameter ) will be an important factor. The actual tyre choice will also be a key factor. You will be less likely to break your diff, driveshafts, companion flanges and stub axles if you can't get any traction....
Your question about hubs / stub axles etc will also have ramifications on the diff choice, and vice-versa. Driveshafts ( halfshafts ) type / choice will be a key link that has a domino effect on other component specs.
I suspect the answers to many such questions are to be found on www.hybridz.org
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
Thanks for the answer! There are many arguments over on HybridZ about rear diffs. I will have to sit for longer and read up some more. I'd prefer not to 4 link the car and tub it as I would like to keep the rear independant suspension set up - but the costs seem to keep icnreasing to a point where I am thinking...'why the hell not'.
I have to admit - I'd like to put the R200 in purely for weight reasons and then a KAAZ LSD or quaife. Is anyone on here running similar power levels?
With the greatest of respect Dan (and I genuinely mean that
)
Alan makes a fair point and one which I should have answered better (that’s sitting in the garden on an IPhone for you), I think perhaps because I misread your posts and got the impression that you had already researched this, would it be fair to say that it’s a little more ad hoc than that?
Dropping an engine in that will produce that sort of torque into a 30+ year old shell needs to be extremely well planned, its not advisable to adopt a “we’ll fix it on the way” methodology, the S30 IRS setup fairs surprisingly well and handles power upgrades admirably but upping the torque to these kind of levels without a well thought out drive train and it will tear itself apart probably at the worse possible moment (like there’s a good one).
You will need to extend the Tremec thinking right down through the prop, diff, diff mount, side shafts/CV’s, hubs, wheels and tyres…..right to the tyre/road interface otherwise you will break things.
Point in case, the late Gavin Balmer ran a small block in a Z32 TT shell with upwards of 450 HP (ran mid 11's) and the rear sub frame was at the point of destruction (box section visibly buckled and out of line), Gavin’s next plans were to be a complete rethink, the Z32 rear end is considerably stronger than the S30 by a long way. I know the S30 is lighter but that can work against you as well as for.
Some shell strengthening (extended and filleted frame rails) and a well designed welded cage and engine bay brace may be advisable, check out the thread where a guy used the rear sub frame from a GTR along with all of the running gear.
May I also advise talking to the likes of Mr F and Dean Bottreilwho have run big V8 power in an S30 (sub 11 second ¼) and ask Mike to show you a picture of the twisted 40mm stub shaft.
In the end some of this may be overkill but better that than the unspeakable happening.
)Alan makes a fair point and one which I should have answered better (that’s sitting in the garden on an IPhone for you), I think perhaps because I misread your posts and got the impression that you had already researched this, would it be fair to say that it’s a little more ad hoc than that?
Dropping an engine in that will produce that sort of torque into a 30+ year old shell needs to be extremely well planned, its not advisable to adopt a “we’ll fix it on the way” methodology, the S30 IRS setup fairs surprisingly well and handles power upgrades admirably but upping the torque to these kind of levels without a well thought out drive train and it will tear itself apart probably at the worse possible moment (like there’s a good one).
You will need to extend the Tremec thinking right down through the prop, diff, diff mount, side shafts/CV’s, hubs, wheels and tyres…..right to the tyre/road interface otherwise you will break things.
Point in case, the late Gavin Balmer ran a small block in a Z32 TT shell with upwards of 450 HP (ran mid 11's) and the rear sub frame was at the point of destruction (box section visibly buckled and out of line), Gavin’s next plans were to be a complete rethink, the Z32 rear end is considerably stronger than the S30 by a long way. I know the S30 is lighter but that can work against you as well as for.
Some shell strengthening (extended and filleted frame rails) and a well designed welded cage and engine bay brace may be advisable, check out the thread where a guy used the rear sub frame from a GTR along with all of the running gear.
May I also advise talking to the likes of Mr F and Dean Bottreil
who have run big V8 power in an S30 (sub 11 second ¼) and ask Mike to show you a picture of the twisted 40mm stub shaft.In the end some of this may be overkill but better that than the unspeakable happening.
Last edited by a moderator:
IbanezDan51
Well-Known Forum User
With the greatest of respect Dan (and I genuinely mean that
Alan makes a fair point and one which I should have answered better (that’s sitting in the garden on an IPhone for you), I think perhaps because I misread your posts and got the impression that you had already researched this, would it be fair to say that it’s a little more ad hoc than that?
Dropping an engine in that will produce that sort of torque into a 30+ year old shell needs to be extremely well planned, its not advisable to adopt a “we’ll fix it on the way” methodology, the S30 IRS setup fairs surprisingly well and handles power upgrades admirably but upping the torque to these kind of levels without a well thought out drive train and it will tear itself apart probably at the worse possible moment (like there’s a good one).
You will need to extend the Tremec thinking right down through the prop, diff, diff mount, side shafts/CV’s, hubs, wheels and tyres…..right to the tyre/road interface otherwise you will break things.
Point in case, the late Gavin Balmer ran a big block in a Z32 TT shell with upwards of 450 HP (ran mid 11's) and the rear sub frame was at the point of destruction (box section visibly buckled and out of line), Gavin’s next plans were to be a complete rethink, the Z32 rear end is considerably stronger than the S30 by a long way. I know the S30 is lighter but that can work against you as well as for.
Some shell strengthening (extended and filleted frame rails) and a well designed welded cage and engine bay brace may be advisable, check out the thread where a guy used the rear sub frame from a GTR along with all of the running gear.
May I also advise talking to the likes of Mr F and Dean Bottreil
In the end some of this may be overkill but better that than the unspeakable happening.
Hi Skiddel and thanks again for the opinion. I need not worry too much about the car - it will be having a structural cage welded from front to back. The design will closely follow the national speeds 240Z. Video here: National Speed: Customer's 383 SBC Powdered S30 Datsun 240Z Road Race Car...‏ - YouTube
I want to make the set up as bullet proof as possible - so im still thinking the Z32 rear diff is the one to go for - especially as I will get bored with 500hp and 500ftlbs of torque pretty quickly (most likely anyway...). I've found a Z32 TT rear diff/hubs/brakes and shafts pretty cheap and will probably go pick it all up this weekend.
vpulsar
Well-Known Forum User
I thought that with my old car, But all I ended up with was a car that was pretty much undrivable on the public roads especially in the wet, And my old car had four wheel drive.
Thier comes a point where you lose everything you actually loved about the car in the first place, If you just want a straight line drag car then fine, But if you actually want something you can drive to the shops and back then I doubt you'll be happy once all the pub talk is over.
Rob
