a 'Nut and Bolt' restoration. A how to guide.

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I have some on my 240Z.

They don't serve any useful purpose and they cause issues with already poor lighting.

I'd save your money for more important things.
 
Hmmmm,,,,

Are they actual casings like I though they would be, or are they just lense inserts?

I already bought some crystal projector 7" lamps to improve lighting at the front end.

Not cheapy ones, propereu and gb approved, british made.
 
Hahaha, you do not know me!!!

I am an all in guy!!!


All in in one go!!!

Rear ****** back box has to go too.

Going to replace with a stainless one.

Thinking cherry bomb, good wuality as fitted and made for muscle crs in the usa.


Thanks for sll the advice though.
 
Rob Gaskin said:
I have some on my 240Z.

They don't serve any useful purpose and they cause issues with already poor lighting.

I'd save your money for more important things.
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Rob, would you be able to take some close up photo's of your light covers please, I would be really appreaciative if you could.


Many thanks. :).
 
DonMuscles said:
What about theseones from the z store??

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02l/50-1041

It looks like they are a casing that goes around the entire units as opposed to just a screwed on lens.

Says no drilling required.
Anyone had any experience with these particular ones??
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Mate - they're the same as from MJP and we all have had experience either wearing them or seeing them worn - you can GLUE the fixing brackets but I know of one that blew off and not screwed in !

I agree with Rob unless you're going for a specific look and are prepared to assume the consequences.

Instead of asking for photos of this and that - trust to your internet search engine :

https://www.google.fr/search?q=dats...ChMI1puhhYWTxwIVBbQUCh0x7Qer&biw=1920&bih=955
 
DonMuscles said:
Hahaha, you do not know me!!!

I am an all in guy!!!


All in in one go!!!

Rear ****** back box has to go too.

Going to replace with a stainless one.

Thinking cherry bomb, good wuality as fitted and made for muscle crs in the usa.
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'All in' means engine head to rear.......stuff the USA cars, you (and your Z) are European - fit a bit of class.;)
 
We alluave our own interpretation of all in....

I just meandoing everything in 1 go!

As far asengine isconcerned, going to keep it standard, just tart it up a bit.
 
DonMuscles said:
Hahaha, you do not know me!!!

I am an all in guy!!!


All in in one go!!!
Click to expand...

Just trying to get to know you but it appears it's all up to own persoanl interpretation which is difficult not having met you.:eek:

But if you want to talk exhausts...I'm listening.;)

How is your OEM manifold ?
 
Not sure if oem or not.

It is a 6-1 branch manifold going into a 3" straight through pipe all the way to the backbox.....

Do not think this could be standard really.

Sippose you will tell me for sure.
 
We all try to give good advice as none of us want to see things go wrong. Most of us have been on this forum for many many years and seen lots of newcomers buy project cars that never get finished or head in the wrong direction. We try to stop people making choices that we feel they will regret in the future as we've seen it all before. We are not telling you how to build your car but only trying to help you based on our experience.

S30's are great cars and one of the main reasons for this is their looks. Once you start messing with the look then IMO you loose a lot of the appeal of the cars.

Dont take things personal as we mean good.
 
I appreciate all the advice, and definitely agree with keeping it as original as possible.

Do not want to mess with the looks...

So please keep all the help and the advice coming!

:).


Hooefully going to finish this baby off by the end of the year!!!!
 
So I ran the Z today....

The temp gauge does not work.

I noticed however that all of the water pipes are hot except for the one coming from the top of the radiator to the top of the engine block.

Is this a thermostat problem?

Is the thermostat located here?

If so I have a new thermostat already and can replace it tomorrow.

Thanks.
 
Also, found another reason for struggled starting exhaust had been almost crush and flattened fully closed near the tailpipe not letting gases out, so I chopped it off with an angle grinder!

Straight pipe now... Sounds like a dragster! Made me deaf!.

Bought a brand new cherry bomb tailpipe for it.


Going to get some custom steel wheels made from extreme offsets uk. With 75mm arches on the rear and 40mm arches on the front, anyone have any idea on widths and offsets I can go to front and rear using 16" wheel setup?

Many thanks.
 
Okay someone please tell me wrong or right?

The top hose coming from the front of the block to the top of the radiatior is the return water hose, returning the hot water from the block to the radiator?

Before the hose at the block is the thermostat?

Straight after the thermostat but before the block, within the thermostat housing is the temp sensor for the dash temperature gauge?


Thankyou.
 
Revised

DonMuscles said:
Okay someone please tell me wrong or right?

The top hose coming from the front of the block to the top of the radiatior is the return water hose, returning the hot water from the block to the radiator?

Before the hose at the block is the thermostat?

Straight after the thermostat but before the "hose", within the thermostat housing is the temp sensor for the dash temperature gauge?


Thankyou.
Click to expand...

This one.
 
Just spent over £200 on a nice new full polybush set from the states including mounts! :D

A lot of money well spent.

Anyone got a 20mm front sway bar (anti roll bar), I have on mine and had to buy front arb bushes separately as apparently it is a large size and quite rare....???
 
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