uk66fastback
Club Member
POR - Paint Over Rust. If there isn't any rust, then don't use it. I've never got on with it either.
Agreed.Personally, I'd leave the rear main cap alone unless there's evidence of leaks. If the other main bearings are fine, that one probably is too.
Personally, I'd leave the rear main cap alone unless there's evidence of leaks. If the other main bearings are fine, that one probably is too.
Agreed.
You can pull out the old side seals with a pair of needle nose pliers (to get started, I used a screwdriver). Then use brake cleaner to clean the slot. Apply some RTV on the side seals, push them all the way in until they bottom out. I think you have to trim them so that they sit flush with the oil pan flange.
All in all it is an easy task, even with the engine still in the car.
Clean it out!
Thanks Jon, yeah thats the same technique as I mentioned in the post above.I don't think you can replace the side seals without taking the rear main cap out.
There's an m8 threaded hole in the centre of it, put a bolt in it and lever it out with a claw hammer and block of wood.
No need to pull the main cap. I didn't struggle at least. It might be different in case the old side seals are really glued in or so.I don't think you can replace the side seals without taking the rear main cap out.
There's an m8 threaded hole in the centre of it, put a bolt in it and lever it out with a claw hammer and block of wood.
No need to pull the main cap. I didn't struggle at least. It might be different in case the old side seals are really glued in or so.
If it wasn't leaking from there before, it won't leak there when you put it back on. You only need a complete ring of firm contact through the gasket, you don't have to have all the gasket under the raised area of the mating ridge compressed.Also, I think my pan lip is bent. When using a metal ruler across the holes from one side to the other, there's a gap when the ruler is flush against one side of the lip:
View attachment 62591
And now the same place, but with the ruler flush down on this side..
View attachment 62592
I don't have the skills or tools to fix this, so I think I'm going to have to find someone who can.
It will come (I think!) off without taking the box off. You can do it. You'll get fleeced if you try to get someone else to do it.Managed to get one out with needle nose pliers. But the pin in the other is too far inside. So I think I should just poke this one back in and leave this to someone else more skilled / with better tools!
View attachment 62590
If it wasn't leaking from there before, it won't leak there when you put it back on. You only need a complete ring of firm contact through the gasket, you don't have to have all the gasket under the raised area of the mating ridge compressed.
Ok .. I'll take a brave pill and try it tomorrow.It will come (I think!) off without taking the box off. You can do it. You'll get fleeced if you try to get someone else to do it.