tel240z
Club Member
Don't worry John you'll get there you always do!! remember i was still fitting the bumpers on the fresh M3 build on the day leaving for Spa :lol:
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240z + 1JZ-GTE (manual)
- Thread starter johnymd
- Start date
Don't worry John you'll get there you always do!! remember i was still fitting the bumpers on the fresh M3 build on the day leaving for Spa :lol:
Ian
Club Member
Well, if the wiring is done and the engine is good and all that needs done is mapping then you should be able to make it if you can get someone to dedicate a whole day to map it. You can leave the advanced functions like traction, launch control, boost by gear etc. for later.
Got to find out why mine is over boosting when on high boost among a few other things but I'm sure I can sort it before Silverstone.
Got to find out why mine is over boosting when on high boost among a few other things but I'm sure I can sort it before Silverstone.
johnymd
Club Member
Making progress with the car but it's not there yet. The replacement turbo's seam good and I have no smoke out the back so I'm pushing on with the twins. Silverstone last weekend was the first chance to use the car in anger with lone periods of full throttle. This produced a misfire as the revs climbed past 4.5k and meant I was changing gear very early. It wasn't always at the same revs and on occasions went to 6k and above. After looking in the data logs I put it down to the boost limiters I had put in place with the limiters and target being the same. I am using limiters, with fuel cut, to try and protect the turbo's. With the integral wastegates being too small to adequately control the boost it's not easy to get them to control properly. I have now increased the limiters and lowered the boost targets. I then drove the car around for quite a bit yesterday with map control learning function turned on and periodically updated the solenoid actuator map with the learning data. Now when I look at the logs I can see the misfires but they are way below the limiters so I'm now thinking it's spark plugs. In the past I have modified the plugs(closed gaps or run cooler plug) to fix the misfires after increasing power. I went from 6 to 7 and then 8 with nitrous. As I no longer use the nitrous I've gone back to a 7 so could this be the problem? Looks like I'll be buying a set of 8's this morning.
johnymd
Club Member
The other issue I had at Silverstone was very low oil pressure after braking and through left hand bends. I have seen this before at Spa but its usually due to the oil not being topped right up. This time the oil was right on the top dipstick mark. I discussed with Terry yesterday about running the oil level above the dipstick mark. Any views on this welcome as I like to listen to everyone so I can make an educated decision.
racer
Club Member
That's a bit worrying
Probably due to your new tyres and higher cornering speeds that come with them.
Maybe it's time for a baffled sump and an uprated/new oil pump?
Especially when you get your new Turbo on.
240z
Club Member
I'm sure you might have done this already, but have you liquid electrical taped or heat shrinked your coil packs? They get hairline cracks quite easily from getting hot an brittle, which can cause misfire. I did both and they have been great. You can get aftermarket coilpacks a bit cheaper now as well (they didn't exist when I did mine) e.g. superspark, whifbitz, but not sure of the quality compared to toyotas
johnymd
Club Member
Just using the standard unmodified coil packs Phil. I'll have to look into what you've mentioned.
The car does seam a lot better today. Changed the plugs for BCR8ES and this afternoon, closed the gaps to 0.6mm and no misfire other than hitting my boost limiter which I've set for 2135mb ab. The injector cut severity is now set for 4 out of next 10 so its a relatively gentle cut so I have to avoid driving though it. It's more to let me know I'm getting close to the turbo's limit. I may increase this 5mb at a time and see where the boost stops rising.
The car does seam a lot better today. Changed the plugs for BCR8ES and this afternoon, closed the gaps to 0.6mm and no misfire other than hitting my boost limiter which I've set for 2135mb ab. The injector cut severity is now set for 4 out of next 10 so its a relatively gentle cut so I have to avoid driving though it. It's more to let me know I'm getting close to the turbo's limit. I may increase this 5mb at a time and see where the boost stops rising.
johnymd
Club Member
Here's a small piece of the data log. Boost is in blue and you can see as it crosses the purple line (boost limit) is cut an injector and you see a lamda spike (Yellow) as it goes lean. The other lines Ive added to help are rpm (green), throttle position (light blue), lamda corrected fuel (red), and fuel pressure (fp1 light green).
Attachments
uk66fastback
Club Member
I wish I understood this thread! (and that last laptop screengrab ...)
johnymd
Club Member
Looked very confusing to me a couple of weeks ago. I go out for a drive and when I get home I download the logging info from the last drive. I then open the viewing software to look at the data. Then I just add the logged data from a long list so I can see what was going on and under what conditions during the drive. I've added 3 graphs in the middle then added to these graphs the data I want to see. In this case, as I'm looking at fueling, the first thing I need to know is the lamda reading (how rich or lean it is), then throttle position, rpm, boost and a couple of others. So, if I see its too lean at 4000rpm with 25% throttle and no boost, I can go into the base fuel map and add a little more fuel. The lamda corrected fuel trace will tell me exactly what % to add. You have a massive list of parameters that are logged so it's really easy to see what was going on with everything from fueling, spark, oil pressure, cooling fan duty to knock, misfires, ect. Its a great tool and will be of great value, when I know how to use it properly. I'm still in the learning phase and its a steep curve.
johnymd
Club Member
The gaps totally fixed the misfire and I've now upped the boost limit another 25mb and the wastgates control the boost just below this. The car runs very nice now and cleanly pulls to the new rev limiter of 7500.
I was busy yesterday as I also had the new prop rebalanced and changed the diff oil to a 75/140 weight. The vibration from 80mph+ has now completely gone. This seams to dispel the belief that at those speeds it cant be the prop. When I took the prop in they said it was fine but just look at the 2 extra weights they put on!!! Anyway, it's fixed the issue that was concerning me.
The car is going on the rolling road this afternoon to get the ignition curve done. I'll then use knock control to tweak the timing of each cylinder in my own time.
I was busy yesterday as I also had the new prop rebalanced and changed the diff oil to a 75/140 weight. The vibration from 80mph+ has now completely gone. This seams to dispel the belief that at those speeds it cant be the prop. When I took the prop in they said it was fine but just look at the 2 extra weights they put on!!! Anyway, it's fixed the issue that was concerning me.
The car is going on the rolling road this afternoon to get the ignition curve done. I'll then use knock control to tweak the timing of each cylinder in my own time.
zman240uk
Club Member
johnymd
Club Member
It was only ever a cheap engine conversion which stands me in next to nothing. The engine has been on borrowed time for over 5 years now and counting. The sumps on these are right at the back of the engine and very small. I cant see much room for baffling. You can get an increased capacity sump which is deeper but as it scraps on the ground at every bump, I cant go deeper.
After reviewing the datalogs from Silverstone I can see that the oil pressure never got as low as zero, although the gauge flashed and indicated no oil pressure. so I will need to keep an eye on it. Or maybe just carry a spare engine around with me
After reviewing the datalogs from Silverstone I can see that the oil pressure never got as low as zero, although the gauge flashed and indicated no oil pressure. so I will need to keep an eye on it. Or maybe just carry a spare engine around with me
John, I have always been careful not to overfill sumps because my dad said that cranks can dip in the oil, however that may only be true of vintage engines. Also leaks from crank seals may have been a problem on old engines.
My daughter's Mazda 6 diesel has a full mark and then an 'x' way above that - 2cm?. This is to indicate that diesel fuel is leaking into the sump and the oil needs draining/changing.
SO it appears that on those engines the 'full' oil level is not critical.
Could you 'rig-up' a big low oil pressure light like the racing guys do.
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racer
Club Member
This is what I was talking to you about the other day John.
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/oil-system/accusump
A better sump would probably still be the best solution but, I think this would be the next best thing.
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/oil-system/accusump
A better sump would probably still be the best solution but, I think this would be the next best thing.
racer
Club Member
Here's how it works. Lifted off the site.
The Accusump, the original automotive oil accumulator, is designed to provide the engine with oil pressure before the starter is even engaged. An Accusump is a cylinder shaped aluminum storage container that acts as a reservoir of pressurised oil, to be released when there is a drop in the oil pressure. The Accusump is connected to the pressure side of an engine's oiling system and is charged by the engines own oil pump.Its simple, efficient design revolves around a hydraulic piston separating an air pre-charge side and the oil reservoir side.
On the oil side of the Accusump it has an outlet that goes into the engine's oiling system, controlled by a valve. On the air side it's equipped with a pressure gauge and a Schrader air pre-load valve.
How does an Accusump work?
On initial start-up when the valve on the oil side is opened the pressurized oil is released into the engine and therefore pre-lubricating the engine prior to start-up. The Accusump holds whatever oil pressure the engine has at the time that it is shut off. After the engine is started and the oil pump has taken over, oil is pumped back into the Accusump. This moves the piston back and pressurises the Accusump until it equalises with engine's oil pressure.
While driving, if the engine's oil pressure is interrupted for any reason, the Accusump releases its oil reserve again, keeping the engine lubricated until the engine's oil pressure comes back to normal. This release of oil could last from 15 to 60 seconds, depending on the size and speed of the engine.
In racing or hard driving conditions, the Accusump will automatically fill and discharge when needed as you corner, accelerate and brake.
The Accusump, the original automotive oil accumulator, is designed to provide the engine with oil pressure before the starter is even engaged. An Accusump is a cylinder shaped aluminum storage container that acts as a reservoir of pressurised oil, to be released when there is a drop in the oil pressure. The Accusump is connected to the pressure side of an engine's oiling system and is charged by the engines own oil pump.Its simple, efficient design revolves around a hydraulic piston separating an air pre-charge side and the oil reservoir side.
On the oil side of the Accusump it has an outlet that goes into the engine's oiling system, controlled by a valve. On the air side it's equipped with a pressure gauge and a Schrader air pre-load valve.
How does an Accusump work?
On initial start-up when the valve on the oil side is opened the pressurized oil is released into the engine and therefore pre-lubricating the engine prior to start-up. The Accusump holds whatever oil pressure the engine has at the time that it is shut off. After the engine is started and the oil pump has taken over, oil is pumped back into the Accusump. This moves the piston back and pressurises the Accusump until it equalises with engine's oil pressure.
While driving, if the engine's oil pressure is interrupted for any reason, the Accusump releases its oil reserve again, keeping the engine lubricated until the engine's oil pressure comes back to normal. This release of oil could last from 15 to 60 seconds, depending on the size and speed of the engine.
In racing or hard driving conditions, the Accusump will automatically fill and discharge when needed as you corner, accelerate and brake.