that would be funny, but then I'd have to paint the car the same colour to explain it, AND spend all my time overtaking people which might get tiresome.
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LD32 Engine build
- Thread starter jonbills
- Start date
Rod bearings all measure up. They're on the upper end of the clearance range, but that's OK.
And those block notches in action that @Turn & Burn mentioned earlier.
And those block notches in action that @Turn & Burn mentioned earlier.
The pistons are all in, I had to get a little off the top of #1 and now they're pretty level.
Once the sump is on, I'm going to mock up the timing cover with a spare head and make sure my head bolts fit and then it's really time to take the current engine out to transfer the Kameari twin idler.
I might take a detour and make the top section of the rad support panel removable to make swapping engine work easier.
Once the sump is on, I'm going to mock up the timing cover with a spare head and make sure my head bolts fit and then it's really time to take the current engine out to transfer the Kameari twin idler.
I might take a detour and make the top section of the rad support panel removable to make swapping engine work easier.
Nice work there John! Coming along very nicely!
with those bearing clearances, does it mean you’re going to be a 20W50 man?
I noticed you’ve properly sealed the rad against the bodywork. I recently read an article by someone improving and measuring their cooling efficiency. They found that what you’ve done had a very significant effect on cooling. What material did you use?
with those bearing clearances, does it mean you’re going to be a 20W50 man?
I noticed you’ve properly sealed the rad against the bodywork. I recently read an article by someone improving and measuring their cooling efficiency. They found that what you’ve done had a very significant effect on cooling. What material did you use?
You're not the first to cut that section out Jon. I saw this on a 240 I was thinking of buying a few years ago. That and a few other things (like the headlight scoop alignment) put me off tbh.
Looks like the replacement is welded in, and quite rough at the join. I wonder if the original was rusted. did you speak to the owner Rob? was there an explanation?
peter_s
Club Member
I think it's good idea. I did the same with my MGB GT V8 racecar, makes engine out service real easy compared to before...
You are a brave man Jon.
Hey Jon when I was 16 I had a Reliant 3 wheeler. Took the engine out through the inside of the 'car'.
candy red
Club Member
Do you mean a Robin?
Probably a Regal in those days
It's an 'in' joke Baz.
The engine was a 750 side valve derivative of the Austin 7!