a 'Nut and Bolt' restoration. A how to guide.

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I believe the 2 sizes of needle valve is to compensate for the inclination of the engine to give even float heights between carbs. However I found that I had to use both the long valves in mine as I just couldn’t get the valve to close without either the float fouling the bowl and hence flooding or having the float shut off the fuel too low down in the bowl. This is if u set it up by inverting the float lid and measuring as per Haynes manual. The better way is to measure Insitu with a clear plastic pipe strapped to the side of the float bowl attached to the float bowl outlet. This will clearly show u where the fuel sits in relation to the jet housing and from that you can set them up evenly approx 23 mm down from the float lid as a guide. What service kit is it, what manufacturer? Mine was a Royston service kit but didn’t include the damper pistons.
 
dav118118 said:
I believe the 2 sizes of needle valve is to compensate for the inclination of the engine to give even float heights between carbs. However I found that I had to use both the long valves in mine as I just couldn’t get the valve to close without either the float fouling the bowl and hence flooding or having the float shut off the fuel too low down in the bowl. This is if u set it up by inverting the float lid and measuring as per Haynes manual. The better way is to measure Insitu with a clear plastic pipe strapped to the side of the float bowl attached to the float bowl outlet. This will clearly show u where the fuel sits in relation to the jet housing and from that you can set them up evenly approx 23 mm down from the float lid as a guide. What service kit is it, what manufacturer? Mine was a Royston service kit but didn’t include the damper pistons.
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Thankyou Dave.

It is the kit that zstore sells.

Not sure if it is the correct one for my z though.

It says it is for a 240z with round top hitachi su’s.

?
 
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Exhaust done today!!!!! :).


Exactly how I wanted it!!!

Asbo style! :).


Also put all of the brake and clutch lines in place and tightened them up ready for bleeding.

Routed all of the brake lines and put rubber grommets in place to stop them rubbing.

Need a few cable ties in places with rubber sleeves to stop them moving whilst driving, just incase.

Interior panels and trim and carpets getting there too....


Coming along now...
 
A few bits done today inbetween work.

Did the underside of the fuel tank, and also secured all of the rear limes in place exactly how I want them.

Front p clips added for brake lines and clutch and brake lines in engine bay are secured as I want them.

Only need to secure the lines from over the chassis legs to the calipers on the front with protection exactly how I did them on the rears.


All in all, it is getting there...
 
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Can snyone tell me if that black and yellow wire from the loom connects up to the positive side of the coil please?
 
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Also am I okay to assume that this black wire that use to connect ip to the outside of the distributor can now be left unconnected?

Thankyou in advance.
 
DonMuscles said:
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Can snyone tell me if that black and yellow wire from the loom connects up to the positive side of the coil please?
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I don’t think snyone is on here much these days. Iirc there are two wires that look roughly black and yellow or black and white. Both will fire the coil but only one will run the tacho right. The other goes to the ballast resistor.
 
jonbills said:
I don’t think snyone is on here much these days. Iirc there are two wires that look roughly black and yellow or black and white. Both will fire the coil but only one will run the tacho right. The other goes to the ballast resistor.
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I got rid of the ballast resistor....

I thought it said to do that....

><????
 
Yes you don’t need the lower voltage without the points, but you do need to have the wiring go through the tacho if you want it to work. So effectively the wires that were connected to either end of the ballast should be connected together now in some elegant way.
 
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