V8 240z

O

oz-ting

Well-Known Forum User
I have bought Clive Standish's 240z which has a tuned rover V8 in it.
I am very happy with the car and intend to make some further improvements over time. I noticed on the run from Phil Hyatt's who I got the car from to mine that it was running hot. Not worringly but above average. I thought that maybe it would benifit from the alloy rad but my S6 Audi does without an alloy rad and seems to handle the heat fine. It also has dual electric fans as does the V8. Any idea's
There is also the matter of the exhaust headers although custom the Driver side header still runs close to the steering coupling so much so it has scored it. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and had overcome it? Perhaps a slightly tighter radius coming from the head to give more clearance. Anyone else got a rover V8 in their Z out there?
 
congrats on pick up a stunning car!!

Steve Francis had a rover V8 (just changed to a ford V8 and whipped everyones a*** at Japfest!) he doesn't come on here much but if you PM me you phone number I'll forward it onto him, I'm sure he can give you some help
 
Thought maybe something like this in the end or gunmetal grey. Any thoughts?
 

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Cheapest fix would be to change the thermostat for a cooler running one, or take it out altogether if it bothers you. As for the pipe I suggest a light tap with a hammer ;)
Dont forget to post some pics :thumbs:
 
900ss said:
Cheapest fix would be to change the thermostat for a cooler running one, or take it out altogether if it bothers you. As for the pipe I suggest a light tap with a hammer ;)
Dont forget to post some pics :thumbs:
Click to expand...
Thats a good point but but if the engine is becoming hot then it just means the fan is on more or earlier. Or am I wrong. I aint that bothered about the actual reading as long as it doesn't overheat but as this wasn't an overly taxing journey I thought in traffic it might be a problem. Also what about the fan over running this one seems to go forever I am worried about the battery as it has no locks so once the battery is done so is entry!
Thanks for the tips though if all else fails the hammer will come out.
 
i would be inclined to get one of those capilary type guages u put under the top hose and sit it on the dash, [only temporary] so u can see exactly whats going on
 
First things first you need a rad that has the same volume and efficincy as a rover Rad or you will be wasting your time. Removing the stat will only mask the problem. Bolt on crappy fans are exactly that, use the switch that comes with a standard rad and wire the fan in properly so you don't get an over run to excess. If needs be a radiator specialist can build in a screw in adapter while they are rebuilding a Rad so cost is minimal. If you really wanted to be smart you could always purchase either a multimetre that has a temp gauge on it or a laser tempature probe, these will detect tempatures in block, hoses and rads and the click of a button so detecting blocked heaters/rads/hoses or faulty thermostat is a dodle.
 
grolls said:
First things first you need a rad that has the same volume and efficiency as a rover Rad or you will be wasting your time. use the switch that comes with a standard rad and wire the fan in properly so you don't get an over run to excess. If needs be a radiator specialist can build in a screw in adapter while they are rebuilding a Rad so cost is minimal. )

Now your cooking grolls! So if I find out what capacity the rover needed to keep it cool under pressure (in litres) and have the fan start at said temp via the stat opening. Hey presto we are back in the game. I am sure a stock Rover V8 runs a 'viscus' fan but the Range rover sport or TVR probably runs an electric fan system so I could start there for switching, capacities. Am I getting warm! did you mean adopt the thermal switch from the Rover system for the fan?:bow:
Click to expand...
 
TVR'S i'm sure use a fan only, so yes your on the right track. You could always consider using a TVR Rad, use an early one as the switch on it maybe an ECU type and would not take battery voltage, you would need to check the pins (small= ecu..Lucas size large= ok) Out of interest are you using a standard 240 rad?
 
It looks like a standard 240 rad, It has one kenlow fan on the inner side of the Rad and a smaller one on the outer. The G nose kit that is fitted to the car is obviously displacing a lot of natural air flow that would come though the rad, I am sure with a bit of thought this could also be made to help. Saying that wouldn't make much difference in traffic. I have got a mind to go alloy Rad at some point but if I use the fan and switching from an early TVR and make sure the rad is of a large enough capacity I should be there. Is that right. I will take a pic tonight and drop it into the forum if you like?
 
I think the car has sat for a while at Mr.F 's, so maybe a good flush through the cooling system to start with........?
 
Cheapest fix would be to change the thermostat for a cooler running one, or take it out altogether
Click to expand...

Not sure I would recommend removing the thermostat for prolonged periods as engines are designed and engineered to run within a certain temperature window....to cool and the combustion process isnt as efficient, tolerances are slacker than planned for, causing perhaps blowby, excessive wear etc, too hot and tolerances become tighter, air becomes warmer causing inefficient running with the added potential of warping or seizing blah blah blah.
 
I wasn't going to remove the stat, I am taking onboard all the advice and finding it really helpful. Flushing out hte engine radis a really good start..
 
Black Bug said:
Possibly not what you want to hear, but TVRs tend to overheat too, a common mod (well common to the type of people who like to mess) is to switch a fan overide switch to bypass the Otter switch that controls the fans anyway.

Have a look here:
http://home.btconnect.com/djbeer/id24.html

Cheers,
Rob
Click to expand...


Good research Rob, but I hate bolt on rough looking bits that no doubt will fail due to the extra wiring etc, if you need a two stage cooling system there are plenty of cars out there that have the switch available, its just a matter of finding the right one.Take Audi, peugeot,citroen as some of their models have it.Nice and simple to wire in, no extra gadgets to go wrong, bar a fuse and a relay.

Back to basics, volume and efficiency first, correct stat and I would recomend a proper coolant like the Renault one as its so good, but very dear and great for ali.
 
I remember Clives' car running hot when we went to Switzerland in '91 ! I think maybe you do need to look back to basics and replace the rad. All the other 'bolt-on' goddies do work but give the beastie a chance in the first place !

Not black - please - there have been several already ! It is a unique car, keep it unique and choose something original, albeit personal to you as it's no longer Clives' old car but yours !

Congrats !
 
grolls said:
Good research Rob, but I hate bolt on rough looking bits that no doubt will fail due to the extra wiring etc, if you need a two stage cooling system there are plenty of cars out there that have the switch available, its just a matter of finding the right one.Take Audi, peugeot,citroen as some of their models have it.Nice and simple to wire in, no extra gadgets to go wrong, bar a fuse and a relay.
Click to expand...

LOL, good point, but of course rough looking bits of wiring are bread and butter for tivvers ;) I have to say that there are a lot of happy users of David's kit out there, how applicable it is to this particular Zed is of course open for debate. I'd be inclined to start of with a larger more efficient rad and see how things progress from there, at least it'd be shiny ;)

Oh and there's nowt wrong with Black, they're getting rarer by the day :(

Cheers,
Rob
 
Arr, but a clearer colour shows off the shape of the car so much better - no mixing the black interior with the exterior - definition of the 'G-nose-style' is what's needed here or from afar it'll be mistaken for 'any old' Z !
 
:) I am going to definately flush the system make sure I am not dealing with an unsuspecting problem but I feel Sean has helped by the fact that the car always run hot. Possibly this was something not really looked into that as fresh blood I can sort out and further improve the car. I am going to look into the Rad capacity and that of the rover and see if there is room for improvement here too. I can say that the Audi never misses a beat when it comes to engine performance so it makes sense to follow that up for switching etc. As to the colour I remember this car when the only thing I knew about it was the ad's for Z centre and I did really like the black car it was pictured with. The blue has grown on me a little but eventually its not a colour I would choose myself. I hear you about the black too Sean. Its a tough colour as well gets dirty real easy and shows every dent and blemish. I was also thinking baby blue I have seen a couple of classic 911's in that colour and they look classic, not to mention GT40's. I guess I will have to see what is needed first. I will have to follow some of this advise up. so I will keep you posted. Thanks all
 
You should have seen Johns' blue 260Z at JapFest - fabulous ! Or go white - the Japanese street racer image, change the colour and maybe you should look at changing the wheels !
 
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