whats worth £10k

Rob Gaskin said:
Well you need the American (or early UK) indicators and cut a hole in the front valence or get a fibreglass replica and cut holes in that to fit the lights.

However 260Zs never had them there so would you be happy with that?
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American and Australian ones did, along with all S30 and S31 Fairlady Zs.

They are a much more pleasing design overall. The UK ones look like a cheap afterthought IMO.

As Rob says, you just need to cut some appropriate holes in the valance to mount them. Wiring them up is easy too. I've done two valances previously; it's just a case of using a Dremel and drill with care. The rubber gasket can be used as a template for setting up where you need to cut.
 
Would people says this is worth the asking price?

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C590557#

http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/datsun/260z/datsun-260z-1975/3801726

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If it's not a rustbucket probably yes, looking at the sill and door bottoms, probably no.
 
Pete said:
If it's not a rustbucket probably yes, looking at the sill and door bottoms, probably no.
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This. Look at the door bottoms, sills and lower rear quarters. Bet a magnet wouldn't have much to attach to. The uneven surfaces suggest high likelihood of a bog fest. And that's only dealing with what is visible. What does it look like underneath? :rolleyes:

I'd be looking for some off that 9995 to deal with some serious bodywork...
 
Thanks Rob, Richie, that's really useful. Is it difficult to drill the holes? Any ideas where i can buy the parts/lights?? sorry, so very off topic!
 
:rofl: easy to see all the parts (in the engine bay and around the car).. i'm not so sure on the easy to fix or source
 
Guy 600N said:
Thanks Rob, Richie, that's really useful. Is it difficult to drill the holes? Any ideas where i can buy the parts/lights?? sorry, so very off topic!
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See my eBay link above for some lights in the UK. Failing that, they are often on eBay in the US. As I said, if you have a fibreglass valance, you just need a Dremel type multi-tool and some small cutting discs. You use the rubber gasket that the light units mount through to mark out the opening (use a marker pen) and the two bolt holes either side. Use a power drill for the latter holes. Measure carefully, work slowly, maybe use masking tape to protect the paint where you make the cuts and you'll be fine.
 
On that ad, as Jon noted, "easy to repair". FFS.

That looks like another car where blasting or dipping the shell could potentially lead to a nervous breakdown! :eek:
 
richiep said:
This. Look at the door bottoms, sills and lower rear quarters. Bet a magnet wouldn't have much to attach to. The uneven surfaces suggest high likelihood of a bog fest. And that's only dealing with what is visible. What does it look like underneath? :rolleyes:

I'd be looking for some off that 9995 to deal with some serious bodywork...
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Other than the surface rust in the engine bay I couldn't actually find any, looked around the sills, petrol cap, floor pans, wheel arches and had a look underneath but it was all painted in like a textured black paint. Paint work isn't all that great, I dare not think whats underneath it though. Engine ran fine other that it not idling too well and I reckon a bushing needs replacing on the tranny due to a wobbly stick. I did think it was a bit overpriced though so at least I know I'm not just making **** up.
 
pointblank said:
Other than the surface rust in the engine bay I couldn't actually find any, looked around the sills, petrol cap, floor pans, wheel arches and had a look underneath but it was all painted in like a textured black paint. Paint work isn't all that great, I dare not think whats underneath it though. Engine ran fine other that it not idling too well and I reckon a bushing needs replacing on the tranny due to a wobbly stick. I did think it was a bit overpriced though so at least I know I'm not just making **** up.
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Of course you don't have to be able to see rust to imagine what's hidden under the surface. As the photos show, white is a good colour for catching less than true surfaces from certain angles. Th areas I mention like the sills etc., look very dubious. The rear quarters and rear valance have definitely been filled anyway to remove the rear bumper recesses and mounting points. Also, that rear valance has an odd lip along the bottom so definitely not original. Personally I could see that car being very expensive to put right...
 
Guy 600N said:
Sorry, bit off topic, how do they get the front indicator lights positioned there rather than the two either side of the number plate.... desperate to do that on mine!
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Funny how people have such differing views on front indicators. Recently had the curved corner units removed (sold them on ebay for very not much) and the correct bumper mounted type fitted in the UK (which I so much prefer:)).

Lots of things to get desperate about in life but indicators!!:unsure:
 
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Stockdale, let's get properly desperate mate: over riders, keep them on or ditch them!?
 
Stockdale said:
Funny how people have such differing views on front indicators. Recently had the curved corner units removed (sold them on ebay for very not much) and the correct bumper mounted type fitted in the UK (which I so much prefer:)).

Lots of things to get desperate about in life but indicators!!:unsure:
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I don't know, I'd be pretty desperate if my car had UK indicators - they look like sh#t! :devil:
 
I am with you Richard on the indicators.:D
Overriders, I had them on mine but took them off, but at the same time I do I quite like them as well, so undecided on that one.:)
 
andrew muir said:
Overriders, I had them on mine but took them off, but at the same time I do I quite like them as well, so undecided on that one.:)
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Yup, me too. I like the retro / originality factor, not to mention protecting the car from others, but I also like the clean lines without them too!!
 
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