Sump removal

cosworth415

Club Member
Oh Oh! Threw a rocker, lash pad gone to the depths,
Question is do any of you guys know a way of removing the sump without completely removing the engine ie, could I lift it a little with a hoist and strops from the engine mountings without removing to much stuff and how high would I have to lift it, is there a way of doing this with a jack ?
 
It can be done but IMHO its as time consuming as taking the engine out.

With a fair wind and the right setup you can have the engine out in under 3 hours.
 
OK then, has anyone actually done it? At the moment all I have is two trolley jacks and axle stands so imaginative ideas would all help.
 
I've not done it, but the challenge is clearing the oil pickup, which is of course the full depth of the sump.
I think you would be able to do it by releasing the engine mounts and lifting it 4 -5 inches, dropping the sump 4 or 5 inches and undoing the oil pickup. then you could pull the sump out.
putting it back together again would be harder.

I'd really advise investing in an engine crane.
 
I've done it, it is doable but prepare for scrapped knuckles and a stiff neck.. It's far easier to take it off then it is to put it back on, reason being is that you need to keep the new gasket in place on the sump as you angle it back on again.

I found that the cork gasket moved a fair few times and in the end I had to use some small blobs of universal blue in a few corners to just keep the gasket in place whilst I angled it back in.. so many thinks to avoid hitting as you refit....
 
I've also done it, it's no fun at all. There's about a gazillion bolts holding it on, several of which are an absolute pain to get to because the crossmember is in the way. I was able to get the pan off without removing the oil pickup first but it was awkward. Also, depending on the sealant used to seal the pan to the block, you may find yourself spending ages trying to break the seal while in the most uncomfortable of positions, and then you get covered in **** when it finally gives way :thumbs:

If you've ever done yoga you might be ok. If you've ever done yoga while twirling tiny spanners between your fingers this should be a piece of cake.

I did jack up the engine a few inches first obviously, couldn't go further but I can't remember why, I'm sure there was a good reason.
 
Cosworth - I suggest you do it and record your activities on Youtube like the Yanks do.

:thumbs:

What happens if you go to all that trouble and can't find the lash-pad?
 
Morbias, I forgot about the bolts under the cross member! I remember how fun that was - you can 'just get to them'. I didn't need to loosen any of the engine mounts and jack up slightly, you just need to be a little innovative with what tool you use, adapt to get to it... It is doable though but engine out is not hard, if you have a helper that is, I wouldn't do it on my own, and gives you a chance to properly examine everything.
 
Morbias, I forgot about the bolts under the cross member! I remember how fun that was - you can 'just get to them'. I didn't need to loosen any of the engine mounts and jack up slightly, you just need to be a little innovative with what tool you use, adapt to get to it... It is doable though but engine out is not hard, if you have a helper that is, I wouldn't do it on my own, and gives you a chance to properly examine everything.

Ha ha yeah, it's definitely not a socket, in fact I'm not sure even a normal spanner could reach those things! It might have been a brake line wrench that I used at a quarter turn a time...
 
engine out is not hard, if you have a helper that is, I wouldn't do it on my own, and gives you a chance to properly examine everything.
I've done a few engine swaps without a helper - if you have a load leveller it's no problem. The helper's only useful for making coffee. And chatting, if you're into that kind of thing.
 
Helper makes the job quicker to do, and always good to have a second pair of eyes and what's wrong with chatting... lol :).
 
Where else could it go:confused:

So where do you think it's gone - nearest hole and can you see down it? Any pics of area (which valve)?

Here's another idea - drain the oil with the car jacked high at the front and see if it makes it's way to the drain hole.

Ferk about with some bent wire through drain hole but be careful of strainer etc.

If it comes to drain hole at least you know where it is. Will it fit through hole?

Just thinking aloud really. :eek:

Are you sure it's not on the head, sorry had to ask but.....
 
2nd valve from the front, inlet checked everywhere must of gone down the chain cover, ordered a new one from Mr F but worried what damage it could do as pointed out to me by Mike. I'm a spark so pretty good at fishing things but this sounds impossible.
 
2nd valve from the front, inlet checked everywhere must of gone down the chain cover, ordered a new one from Mr F but worried what damage it could do as pointed out to me by Mike. I'm a spark so pretty good at fishing things but this sounds impossible.

Well I got a chain tensioner back in with two long screwdrivers!
 
What do you reckon on just leaving it until I need to get the lump out?


my gut says noooooooooo!

You will never forgive yourself if it kills your engine and you have to take it out and strip it / spend lots of cash to fix.
 
Personally, I reckon you're probably safe if it's in the sump.
I'd probably try to check it is in the sump though - you might be able to hear it dragging with a magnet.
 
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