Steering rack questions

Here goes....

Started to look at my steering rack before I look at putting it on.

Good:

Rod ends are perfect, zero play

minimal if zero backlash during most the rack movement

Bad:

when the rack is centered, there's almost a dead spot, a tiny notch you can feel when sliding the rack side to side by hand. I couldn't see any damage on the rack, so I guess its on the worm gear and rack combined around the dead center spot, anyone had this? I can't find specs for measuring the rack 'teeth'. how do I narrow the culprit?

Steering shaft U joints have a MM of play or so, however I think I can find these.....



Any steering rack gods?
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
You can turn the pinion 180deg to move the notch out of the dead ahead pos’n.
I think you can also change the amount of mesh / back lash by adjusting the pinion pos’n, ie raise / lower on shims, it’s a while since I did mine but it’s fairly easily stripped and serviced.
 
You can turn the pinion 180deg to move the notch out of the dead ahead pos’n.
I think you can also change the amount of mesh / back lash by adjusting the pinion pos’n, ie raise / lower on shims, it’s a while since I did mine but it’s fairly easily stripped and serviced.

That'd make sense. I'll have a look at it when I'm back. I've not pulled the worm out yet.
 
So pulled it apart, it seems not all racks are the same. This is pre-loaded on a brass bucket and spring.

I've got it apart, can't find any wear, however can't rotate the any part as they're not ended the same.

Lots of plastic hard 40 year old grease removed, which might have created the feeling of the 'notch'. a bit of wear on the brass bearings/shims inside the outer rack, however should be fine. i'll have to rebuild to check its just rock hard grease that's caused the feeling.

pgycjvG.jpg

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gFMqReR.jpg


What have others done when rebuilding theirs? Also how many have replaced the steering rod UJ? Mines got a good mm of play in it, its a service part.
 

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
I've refurbed (won't say 'restored') three racks now. There's not a lot you can do to 'blueprint' them within reason, and it's more a matter of making sure they are in proper working order. You don't want to tighten up the 'shoe' too much either (factory service manual gives the specs for that).

The truth is that road testers noted a slightly 'notchy' dead spot in the centre when these cars were new. There's not a lot that can be done to mitigate it.

The U/Js do indeed wear out and certainly don't help matters. My replacements (NLA?) came from Nissan with no part number on, but I believe there's a standard size which is a good retro fit? Something from a quad bike maybe?
 
I've refurbed (won't say 'restored') three racks now. There's not a lot you can do to 'blueprint' them within reason, and it's more a matter of making sure they are in proper working order. You don't want to tighten up the 'shoe' too much either (factory service manual gives the specs for that).

The truth is that road testers noted a slightly 'notchy' dead spot in the centre when these cars were new. There's not a lot that can be done to mitigate it.

The U/Js do indeed wear out and certainly don't help matters. My replacements (NLA?) came from Nissan with no part number on, but I believe there's a standard size which is a good retro fit? Something from a quad bike maybe?

Yes, i've found the UJ's that fit, that should make a massive difference when actually driving, as its quite a bit of 'slop'. I've been though the factory manual, I'll just fully clean and set everything to factory specs to see how it feels.
 

jonbills

Membership Secretary
Site Administrator
Yes, i've found the UJ's that fit, that should make a massive difference when actually driving, as its quite a bit of 'slop'. I've been though the factory manual, I'll just fully clean and set everything to factory specs to see how it feels.
Which UJ is it Jason? I wonder if mine might benefit from one too.
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
A little 'off topic' but I regularly go to view cars at auctions and the amount of 'free play' in a LOT of them at 'straight ahead' is frightening.

Most classic cars don't steer like S30s.
 

Turn & Burn

Club Member
So pulled it apart, it seems not all racks are the same. This is pre-loaded on a brass bucket and spring.

I've got it apart, can't find any wear, however can't rotate the any part as they're not ended the same.

Lots of plastic hard 40 year old grease removed, which might have created the feeling of the 'notch'. a bit of wear on the brass bearings/shims inside the outer rack, however should be fine. i'll have to rebuild to check its just rock hard grease that's caused the feeling.

pgycjvG.jpg

T23SVvg.jpg

gFMqReR.jpg


What have others done when rebuilding theirs? Also how many have replaced the steering rod UJ? Mines got a good mm of play in it, its a service part.

When I’d said turn it through 180 deg I’d meant spin the shaft until the both you bit is at 6pm on ur steering wheel instead of 12pm. Poor description by me!
 

AliK

Vehicle Dating Officer
Staff member
Club Member
A little 'off topic' but I regularly go to view cars at auctions and the amount of 'free play' in a LOT of them at 'straight ahead' is frightening.

Most classic cars don't steer like S30s.

I was horrified at the slack at dead ahead on my BL’s TR6!
 

Rob Gaskin

Treasurer
Staff member
Site Administrator
I think its a case of being pragmatic though, thats what i'm learning!

Not sure what you mean. Are you saying just accept the free movement?

On some cars especially old Jag saloons I have been able to turn the steering wheel about 80' without the front wheels moving !
 

Albrecht

Well-Known Forum User
Not sure what you mean. Are you saying just accept the free movement?

He'll have to accept HLS30U's 17:1 rack ratio instead of 15:1 by default.

It's going to be hard to get it much better than blueprinted factory stock specification was without some kind of tradeoff.

Fitting a smaller diameter steering wheel helps!
 
I’ll post some pics up, lower brass bearing had broken on the pinion. Causing the tight spot. Probably caused by a hairline crack in the casting. I’m sad
 
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