Solid Top Mounts ?

We have now designed a top mount to work with standard dia strut inserts front & rear but it is not going to work on the front of my Z due to the dia of the damper rod on the Arizona Z struts. So we are now going to make a billet mount fitted with the rose joint from the Arizona Z camber plates that will take the place of the rubber top mount. This way I will experience what it is like with solid top mounts before chopping the shell about. :D :thumbs: & if I don't like it will be back to the drawing board to fit a bearing into the next set of top mounts so that the rubber mount can be re installed. Its a good job it has taken so long to get the material this provided much more thinking time :D
 
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We have now made the top hats for Dave Porter's car which is using std dia damper rods, back to the drawing board on mine, on the front ones we will have to install a bearing in there, the rear ones will have some mods also. Sorry was not been able to upload the pics, Dave will be uploading pics on his RB thread tomorrow. I may be able to get some more of these made if anyone is interested. The ones we have made accept 2 1/2" springs & the bump stop, it would be possible to make them to accept 2 1/4" springs if required.
 
Finally got my top hats today that will fit the arizona z struts into the original top mounts Jeff has put much thought into them & they are ace :thumbs:, he came up with a design that would not need the extra bearing. Will post some pics once I know how to :confused:.
 
2009_05040007.JPG Here you go the first pic I have ever loaded on the forum thanks to Joe Ni, here are my spring top hats, the front ones are beefier & have the stainless bearing to go in there to stop the mount binding on the large dia strut damper rods when the steering is turned.
 
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Looking good! I have just been messing with my setup....fitted 185lb front 200lb rears so will let you know how it feels once the wheels are back on...I re-vavled my dampers at the same time as the rebound was way too strong for the springs I have.
 
twoforty said:
Looking good! I have just been messing with my setup....fitted 185lb front 200lb rears so will let you know how it feels once the wheels are back on...I re-vavled my dampers at the same time as the rebound was way too strong for the springs I have.
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Thanks Simon, I'll get back to you about the struts, its a 350 mile round trip :eek: would be worth it though so we could meet up, I could see your Z & pick your brains abit :D these struts have 16 settings on them, would like to get it near right 1st time save taking the front ball joints off again, its abit of a pain because they are adjusted from underneath the rears are no problem because they will be accessable.
 
The guy that made my shocks has his workshop next door to mine....he also has a shock dyno which you can test them on if need be. Can you dril out a small hole in the bottom of the hub to allow you to adjust them on the car? Are they just rebound adjust or bump also? I thought the bump was too hard on mine but it turned out to be the rebound which was stopping the spring from returning, that made the springs feel like they were rock solid. Just sticking the wheels on now...got to finish my exhaust (now not "stupidly low" ) :) then take it for a blast...will be the first time in 2 years I've had a working speedo, rev counter. If you come down I'll let you take a drive in it.
 
Gwyn: These are the struts I am using. Is the top mount fitting anything like yours?
 

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Gwyn, I have just taken the car out and it like a different car to drive, It rides like a modern sports car firm and controlled... changing to Falken FK452's also made an amazing difference to my traction problems....they grip in the wet like the P zero rosso's did in the Dry. I used 12" 185lb front and 12" 200lb rear.....I'd say the front anti roll bar could do with an upgrade though (next job on the list) fine for road use.
The damper rod looks huge on your struts.....like a bike shock :) Did you talk to Dave at ArizonaZ about which setting would be best for your car? he is very helpful.
 
twoforty said:
The guy that made my shocks has his workshop next door to mine....he also has a shock dyno which you can test them on if need be. Can you dril out a small hole in the bottom of the hub to allow you to adjust them on the car? Are they just rebound adjust or bump also? I thought the bump was too hard on mine but it turned out to be the rebound which was stopping the spring from returning, that made the springs feel like they were rock solid. Just sticking the wheels on now...got to finish my exhaust (now not "stupidly low" ) :) then take it for a blast...will be the first time in 2 years I've had a working speedo, rev counter. If you come down I'll let you take a drive in it.
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Yes on the rears will be able to make a hole to access the adjusters & just had a thought on the fronts could unscrew the shock part of the strut from the bottom part :D sorted. I believe they are bump & rebound, I could bring one with me when I come over, it'll be worth the journey to have a go in your beast :cool:.
 
twoforty said:
Gwyn, I have just taken the car out and it like a different car to drive, It rides like a modern sports car firm and controlled... changing to Falken FK452's also made an amazing difference to my traction problems....they grip in the wet like the P zero rosso's did in the Dry. I used 12" 185lb front and 12" 200lb rear.....I'd say the front anti roll bar could do with an upgrade though (next job on the list) fine for road use.
The damper rod looks huge on your struts.....like a bike shock :) Did you talk to Dave at ArizonaZ about which setting would be best for your car? he is very helpful.
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Thats a good idea I will contact Dave at Arizona Z see what he recommends, also thanks for the tyre tip, have not bought my new ones yet.
 
I'm sure you will find that those spring rates are too low for serious track work and why softer at the front?
 
Rob, I'm just trying different combinations at the moment...It's not for serious track use. It may go on the track but will spend 99% of its time on the road. Why softer on the front than rear? good question, Nissan used softer front than rear, why? not sure, maybe to transfer more weight to the rear...stiffer the spring used at a corner the more weight is tranfered to that corner. I was always under the impression that rear wheel drive car needed soft rear firm front for best traction but the springs I have in now give the car a very balanced feel....I will change the anti roll bar/bars and see how it drives then and maybe change the springs a few more times yet :) I'm lucky enough to have a Lift so changing all 4 springs doesn't take long.
I'd probably use 300 front and 250 rear on the track. What rates do you use?
 
I use 250lb all round. Still got the standard anti-roll bars too. It suits me, I find it handles ok (i.e. no sudden breakaways) and in the rain at Donington recently it was managable. I know for ultimate dry grip I would need to stiffen it more.
 
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