Rustoration project

Zed-the-red

Well-Known Forum User
STOP PRESS: EBAY Z IN RUST HORROR!!

Well almost correct... ish.. Well correct actually... I dont want any TOLD YOU SO Gloaters.. The cars are NOT a competition between whos got rust and who aint.
We are merely custodians of these Classics, we have to pass them on at some point.

Well.. bodger heaven. I thought swapping the sills would be a straight forward repair.. NOT. I have posted some new piks.
I have had to do major repairs to the inner sills and the dog leg to get some strength back into the frame. I made a descision to not replace the floor pan on the drivers side as it looked 75% intact. I have done the repairs in the footwell these are fine. But in doing so revealled more rot in the inner sill.. so this had to be repaired.
Then in cutting out thin metal realised that even if I was replacing the floorpan I would not have had anything to weld to.. So I had to make further repairs in this area.

Moving aft. Remove rear seat mounting next to the sill. I was wondering why there was a gap under its back end.
I found out that it was a duff repair and a plate had been braized on under the car.
I took this off and was left with a bigger hole. I had to fabricate new sections.. By this time I had gone too far with the other repairs to warrant scrapping the original floor pans and putting in new ones.

Then as I was cleaning and area ready for welding. I spotted a bulge under the frame rail where the rear anti roll bar mountings are attached... Prod prod.. grind out the rust.. Hey a hole.. how F**in novel..

My plans for the mot next monday have gone out the window.. Seroiusly though its nothing that I did not expect. I cut well back to new metal in anycase. So its just the normal restoration so far...

I do have an issue... why does my near side back wheel protrude from the arch .. same wheel size and tyre sizes on the rear. cannot see a spacer.. The frame of the car looks straight.. I will post a pik. Time to do some measurin..

I am off for a knock of golf tonight so the Z can ponder its fate.. I will be back at it on Sunday night.

TATA
 
You people who value having a rust free shell over everything else are missing the point I think, Most of us buy these cars because we want a project, And for those that can weld and have the space having a rusty shell to repair is heaven, I can't weld so I went for one that had already had the rust repaired but needed quite a lot of mechanical work needed which is my thing so I'm very happy indeed.

Well done Zed I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures of your progress.


Rob
 
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You people who value having a rust free shell over everything else are missing the point I think, Most of us buy these cars because we want a project, And for those that can weld and have the space having a rusty shell to repair is heaven, I can't weld so I went for one that had already had the rust repaired but needed quite a lot of mechanical work needed which is my thing so I'm very happy indeed.

Well done Zed I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures of your progress.


Rob

EXACTLY... A project. Thats why I bought it. love the challenge. love welding. Love mechanicals. love taking something that does NOT work and getting it working. BLISS BLISS BLISS... Just think of the fat smug grin I am going to have on my face when the Z rolls out of the garage under its own power.. its probably going to take 6 months just to get it to that stage.. then we have the painting to do..
Satisfaction.. Love it. I will know that car inside and out. I will know every nut and bolt.

Dont care if its got more plates welded onto it than the Titanic!! {I know the titanic was rivetted]... It will NOT be perfect. But nor am I, I was once but at 51 I am not anymore. the car will be 35 plus years old.. it will reflect that patina of age and wear it with panache. :p
 
Don't care if its got more plates welded onto it than the Titanic!! {I know the titanic was riveted]... It will NOT be perfect. But nor am I,

I agree with you 100%, Mine is a bit of a patch work quilt, Do I care ? no I don't;).

I bought it to enjoy the process of rebuilding it and the joy of as you say the first time it rolls out of the garage under it's own steam, It will be used as a daily driver through out the summer months and for trips to as many tracks here and abroad that I can afford to visit.



Rob
 
And you guys are missing 'our' point. There is plenty to do in a project using a clean shell from the start, you end up with a more solid car which will last longer. You minimise the time spent on these repairs and can either be on the road sooner (none of us is getting younger so live now) or spend more time elsewhere on the project, perfecting other areas.

And for a lot of people whose skills, free time and acess to the right equipment redefine their idea of a project, a clean US shell is a short-cut !
Have fun.
 
And you guys are missing 'our' point. There is plenty to do in a project using a clean shell from the start, you end up with a more solid car which will last longer. You minimise the time spent on these repairs and can either be on the road sooner (none of us is getting younger so live now) or spend more time elsewhere on the project, perfecting other areas.

And for a lot of people whose skills, free time and acess to the right equipment redefine their idea of a project, a clean US shell is a short-cut !
Have fun.

Sean.. we are not missing the point. There are several degrees of restorations. It depends on your skill levels. If could not do the things I can do then I would be looking at a rust free shell. I do have these skills so a rusty shell does not daunt me.
I agree that a rust free shell would be stronger. But a good quality restored shell will not be far behind it. Wont look as good but.. looks are not everything.

Minimising time on these repairs. I could go with that. But the point you are missing is that we like to spend time on these repairs. Its part of the adventure. We want to get the car to a rolling restoration point. MOTeed maybe not painted.. but runnable.
Then in my case the tittivating starts.
As I say degrees.. there are 12 numbers on a clock face, its irrelevant at what time or place we start the restorations on the clock face . some will start at 8 and finish by 12. I am starting at 12 and I will end by the following 12. But I will get there in the end.. You will get there sooner. End result is the same {ish}.

No points missed. 'Frank Sinatra.. I did it my way'... Maybe it's not your way but it works.

In rust we trust..to repair it is a must.
 
I'm sure you're right - I don't want you to be discouraged and hate Zs, I don't want to see another patched up Z on the road (I hope you know what I mean and I'm sure yours' won't be) - 'cos I've seen plenty over there and over here - nice paintwork, usually in the UK with some tuning mods but weak as fish-sperm in the body dept. Best I saw over here a couple of years agao was a bar welded across the front chassis rails near the anti-roll bar to keep the car together.......

I want to see more and BETTER quality Zs - not just MOT welders.

Enjoy, post photos and thanks for your honesty and openess - refreshing.
 
I'm sure you're right - I don't want you to be discouraged and hate Zs, I don't want to see another patched up Z on the road (I hope you know what I mean and I'm sure yours' won't be) - 'cos I've seen plenty over there and over here - nice paintwork, usually in the UK with some tuning mods but weak as fish-sperm in the body dept. Best I saw over here a couple of years agao was a bar welded across the front chassis rails near the anti-roll bar to keep the car together.......

I want to see more and BETTER quality Zs - not just MOT welders.

Enjoy, post photos and thanks for your honesty and openess - refreshing.

I am like an alpine shower. cool and refreshing.
Welding has to be done right. Strength of the structure must be maintained and improved upon. Seam welding.. BOTH sides of a patch / repair. No tacking. Stitches are okay as long as they are NOT near any structural mountings - bearers etc.
I prefer seam welding.. not in one fell swoop as you get distortion on thinner steel.. but do a bit then let it cool..Then carry on.
Grind down the welds if they are a bit on the heavy side and are going to be visible.
I like to get all the welding done and then spend a day or two grinding the beggars down. I can check the welds for cracks as the same time.

If I had taken this car as it was. done the OBVIOUS welding required and MOTeed it.
IF I then had a bump.. Then with the UNSEEN rot in the sills and inners sills, dog leg etc etc.. I would be toast! The car would just fall apart and I would end up looking really stupid and dead in the middle of a field in a tatty car seat.
NOT APPENIN!... It will be as strong as I can make it.. Better if I can.
It may be old but it safe.
You cannot avoid patches on classics.. you have to make sure they are good ones..
As for the steel across the front.. bit of a make shift strut brace?
 
totally agree with you zed. you can combine your love of these cars with your hobbies of welding and metal fabrication and gain a bit of knowledge and a few more strings to your bow along the way! i fully intend to do all the work on my 240 myself ,as ive found that if i pay someone to do a job for me it usually leaves a bitter taste!nothing is more satisfying than seeing apile of crap evolving into somthing beautiful,and knowing you did it all by yourself!!
 
I love my Zed and I love the way you are looking after your's I feel that you should look after these cars instead of just putting the bits onto a USA shell I mean for gods sake if I wanted to do a transplant I would make a westfield! These cars need to be patched and need to keep been MOT'd or I tell you know this club will end up been few and far between on the 240/260/280 front and that will be a sad day. I am not in for a come back to this post so please dont reply. I think the work you are doing is fantastic I would love to come and be a helping hand as I respect what you are doing! I understand Sean what you are saying but in true Brit style to keep THE UNDERDOG alive is a good trate that needs to carry on or we will all just take the easier more clinical option. I would love my Z to be rust free trust me I would but god I have a Saab for true reliability and perfection, The Z is a car that needs to live on and people that do the work and keep them going is better by far than using it as a donor for a yank shell. I for one will never say I told you so just that I know where you are coming from and truely wish you every success and hope your project gives you as much joy as mine does. WELL DONE THAT MAN!
 
So Olly, you're not for using Zs as everyday cars then ?

We're different - I have been restoring a large, old house and now have two young kids to bring up - my spare time Z-wise is spent driving the bitch which is what they're for..............not DIY lessons and filling up the garage and black plastic bin-liners of rust ! LOL
 
rusty cars rule ?

Zed,
you are off your trolley,you should have done what i did,turn up with your rose tints on not look at the gleaming car properly and buy it ,get it home and think wow a new battery and a quick service and on the road yeehaa.
Its a good job ive got a small garage no welding or painting skills ,oh and no money.
I do love a challenge,will post some pics of my chariot and look forward to swapping tales of woe cheers Gaz
 
And for a lot of people whose skills, free time and acess to the right equipment redefine their idea of a project, a clean US shell is a short-cut !
Have fun.

But your average man can't cut out the bulkhead to convert to RHD + you need a doner car, which defeats YOUR object of keeping as many Z's on the road as poss.
 
Oh sorry, YOU can't drive lhd cars ? My stated desire was to see as many GOOD condition Zs on the road as poss. Using a donor car is replacing one rust bucket with a clean Z - that's not reducing or my maths is as bad as juniors' spelling.......
 
Yep - buy a Z, run it as a daily without garage on a limited budget and in a few years when you've paid your credit off and can't afford to lay up the car to restore it (and need to have a daily of course), just sell it on as a rusty restoration project !

You guys are great, use it up, throw away and move on.......'cept the poor Z !
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Sean remember what you said on the "carcrazy" thread.:p
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If someone does a wreck up that means TWO Z's on the road eg: LHD & a resto.:p
 
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This is getting silly, from what I have read it sounds like zed the red is going to do a very good job of this car & you probably not even be able to notice the repairs & so long as the car is straight & true when finished it should not be any different to an import, the reason we all go for imports is because we cannot do the bodywork ourselves or do not have the time. One person that springs to mind when talkng restoring Z's & .that is Nico Mangat the way they did them was incredible :bow: . Many uk cars ended up so bad from back street garages bodging then to get them through the mot. Myself I would buy a properly fully restored uk car no problem, but would not buy a project uk car, don't get me wrong the reason being I would have to pay someone else to do the shell. Andrew if you pm me a list of any parts you need for the project I'll let you know if I have them, they will be foc or very cheap ;) apart from the headlamp covers. :D
 
This is getting silly, from what I have read it sounds like zed the red is going to do a very good job of this car & you probably not even be able to notice the repairs & so long as the car is straight & true when finished it should not be any different to an import, the reason we all go for imports is because we cannot do the bodywork ourselves or do not have the time. One person that springs to mind when talkng restoring Z's & .that is Nico Mangat the way they did them was incredible :bow: . Many uk cars ended up so bad from back street garages bodging then to get them through the mot. Myself I would buy a properly fully restored uk car no problem, but would not buy a project uk car, don't get me wrong the reason being I would have to pay someone else to do the shell. Andrew if you pm me a list of any parts you need for the project I'll let you know if I have them, they will be foc or very cheap ;) apart from the headlamp covers. :D

But even buying a US car there is work involved to convert it to RHD & from what I've seen they all need respraying.
 
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