rust treatment

F

flyer742

New Forum User
My recent relapse into the Z world was inspired by an issue of practical classics this summer with a photo of a restored 260z on the cover. I bought the magazine, joined the Z club, and took the cover off the rusting 260 2+2 in my drive.
The Z in my drive has since been condemed and I have aquired a 260 in pretty good nick and am currently making that roadworthy. I wondered if anyone else has that magazine, as it contained a report on rust treatments and one was particularly good (or at least better than all the others), the house has been turned upside down but the mag has disappeared, can anyone put me out of my misery with the name of that product.

Oh and by the way did my current Z ever belong to a club member, AGE 314S is the reg .

Cheers

Bill
 
welcome to the Zclub bill.

the only advice i can offer is that most rust has to be cut away or removed or have it sand blasted but i have seen adverts for for so called rust converters or rust kill but how good they i could not tell you.but i do remeber there being an advert in the Zclub magazine some time ago for an electronic device which was supposed to stop rust or slow it right down.
 
I've got lots of rust and I have been told to use Finnegans No 1 Rust Primer.
I don't know if this helps you I'm probably better at aquiring rust than stopping it!
 
POR-15 products are currently much touted as excellent for rust treatment and as preventative coverings in a variety of applications.

The old Finegans #1 is pretty unbeatable as a first step preparation over repaired areas.

The only real answer to rust is to cut back to good metal and start again.
 
My 260 will be patched and treated for MOT's for a couple of years and then it'll be off road for new chassis rails, sills and floorpans. Big job and not cheap but it's the only way to do a really good job.

Treatments are only delaying the inevitable and once rust is there it's a devil to get rid of . New metal and plenty of protection are the way to go.
 
Hi,
I was reading an old 280ZX brochure yesterday and the section about rust prevention made me laugh! :rolleyes:

"An equally high priority has been given to corrosion resistance.To begin with,the 280ZX's major body parts are made from rust-resistant galvanised steel.An elaborate anti-corrosion process, including zinc phosphate coating, precedes painting with a high grade paint that resists stone chipping and rust forming.....The 280ZX is designed to be a LASTING pleasure." :D

So what went wrong then! :rolleyes: ...I owned a 280ZX when it was only four years old and it was showing quite a bit of rust even then!
Cheerz,
JEZ
 
JEZ300Z said:
Hi,
So what went wrong then! :rolleyes: ...I owned a 280ZX when it was only four years old and it was showing quite a bit of rust even then!
Cheerz,
JEZ
Click to expand...

Nissan probably hadn't paid their electricity bill when the 280zx run was going on hence the lack of zinc plating.lol:) oh poo that reminds me £230 for my 1/4 leckie bill, jeeze that blaster costs a fortune to run!:eek:
 
I've been using POR15 on a few things, it does seem to be pretty good stuff, way better than Hammerite anyway (I shall have to redo my front suspension because of that). However, as with all reust issues it's all in the preparation, sand blast if possible, if not give it large with a variety of wire brushes and similar torture devices. With POR15 you then have to use their Marine Clean degreaser, then their acid etching stuff, both need to be thoroughly rinsed and dried. Finally you get to slap the paint on, which does go on very well with very good coverage. Downside is that it's not UV stable so if you're dealing with something that will get constant sunlight on it, it needs further coatings. All in all the price adds up!

The Yankees now seem to favour a couple of other products. Rust Bullet and Zero Rust. I think Rust Bullet is available in the UK, Zero Rust isn't yet to my knowledge.

For POR15 go to this very useful website:
http://www.frost.co.uk/

Cheers,
Rob
 
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